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Putting in the ARTEC manifold with GTX3076R gen2....
Here is a comparison of the MAP manifold vs. the ARTEC.
The MAP is just a pain to get out due to that one front passenger side bolt. Also, the LONG bolt provided by MAP (drivers rear) was completely loose. After some discussion with engineers who work in this area; MAP should have provided an alternative torquing spec vice OEM. Furthermore, it may call for a DOUBLE stack of Belleville washers.
This is because the bolt is a different material AND a different (much longer) length!!
Putting in the ARTEC manifold with GTX3076R gen2....
Here is a comparison of the MAP manifold vs. the ARTEC.
I recently pulled a GTX3071R Gen2 out of an Evo I am working on. The Oil Return Line was damaged and leaking. I am not sure if this rubber hose line, worm clamps, and fittings is what Garrett supplies or something the previous mechanic cobbled together. What do you have for the Oil Return line?
Originally Posted by Jaraxle
The MAP is just a pain to get out due to that one front passenger side bolt. Also, the LONG bolt provided by MAP (drivers rear) was completely loose. After some discussion with engineers who work in this area; MAP should have provided an alternative torquing spec vice OEM. Furthermore, it may call for a DOUBLE stack of Belleville washers.
This is because the bolt is a different material AND a different (much longer) length!!
The long bolt supplied by MAP seems to be a regular grade 8 bolt. I dont understand their reasoning to do this. ARP makes a stainless steel M10x1.25x80 bolt. I would use that bolt instead since ARP provides a torque rating for it and SS is suited for exhaust temperature.
I recently pulled a GTX3071R Gen2 out of an Evo I am working on. The Oil Return Line was damaged and leaking. I am not sure if this rubber hose line, worm clamps, and fittings is what Garrett supplies or something the previous mechanic cobbled together. What do you have for the Oil Return line?The long bolt supplied by MAP seems to be a regular grade 8 bolt. I dont understand their reasoning to do this. ARP makes a stainless steel M10x1.25x80 bolt. I would use that bolt instead since ARP provides a torque rating for it and SS is suited for exhaust temperature.
We use ARP 8740 Chromoly bolts with OEM Belleville washers (two per bolt) and nickel based antiseize when we do a stock frame EvoX turbo. Doesn't gall on removal like stainless can. Also we haven't had the Chromoly bolts come loose like the OEM bolts tend to.
We use ARP 8740 Chromoly bolts with OEM Belleville washers (two per bolt) and nickel based antiseize when we do a stock frame EvoX turbo. Doesn't gall on removal like stainless can. Also we haven't had the Chromoly bolts come loose like the OEM bolts tend to.
The MAP is just a pain to get out due to that one front passenger side bolt.
I know you won't be reinstalling the MAP manifold but hopefully this will help someone else. I struggled with that bolt until I purchased an angle headed wrench. It made the job ezpz.
I recently pulled a GTX3071R Gen2 out of an Evo I am working on. The Oil Return Line was damaged and leaking. I am not sure if this rubber hose line, worm clamps, and fittings is what Garrett supplies or something the previous mechanic cobbled together. What do you have for the Oil Return line?
The long bolt supplied by MAP seems to be a regular grade 8 bolt. I dont understand their reasoning to do this. ARP makes a stainless steel M10x1.25x80 bolt. I would use that bolt instead since ARP provides a torque rating for it and SS is suited for exhaust temperature.
For the oil return garrett supplied the parts from end to end. However, yes it includes a rubber hose section (with two worm-gear clamps) to account for variance.
We use ARP 8740 Chromoly bolts with OEM Belleville washers (two per bolt) and nickel based antiseize when we do a stock frame EvoX turbo. Doesn't gall on removal like stainless can. Also we haven't had the Chromoly bolts come loose like the OEM bolts tend to.
Thanks that is a great tip! The Chromoly bolts are both cheaper and available compared to SS bolts. I will be ordering these.
For the oil return garrett supplied the parts from end to end. However, yes it includes a rubber hose section (with two worm-gear clamps) to account for variance.
Ok good to know. The line was leaking but that might be due to damage from exhaust heat or the worm clamps not sealing around the metal pipe fitting.
Now for some cool stuff.
The idea with the CLOWN filter was to prepare tuning and fitment to allow a full 4" to the inlet on the garrett turbo. This is finally happening:
