Best way to describe this material is.... BALSA WOOD... It feels like it is made of black balsa wood....

 

Tomorrow she is going to be fired up. Wedler friend is finishing the custom charge pipe that goes over the engine.

 

Any info on 4b11 ENGINE CLEANING that can be done safely, I'm open ears... This was my DAILY (in NY!) and track toy for a decade... It seems to look so much worse in photos...


Latest... Tuned fine quickly on 93... but didn't get HARD into boost because my targer was 19psi but she crept to 23psi....

Now on E60 and again have refrained from WOT through all RPM because boost is ABOVE target. I hope I don't have a boost creep problem here....

I set the boost limit to 270 load (I know its violent!) and will give the jam today or tomorrow and see what happens.

 

Whoops. I just realized the actuator is spring-set to 22psi !
So I guess I'm ready to see what she makes up top... to be continued....

 

The surface finish on those prints is great.

I'm very interested to see how it holds up.

 

Thanks..... It doesn't LOOK printed (no lines). It doesn't FEEL printed (super light). I've run the same printed parts BEFORE the 45 degree silicone bend since BEFORE winter (a few months). So the MAF section, and rain guard do have some time on them with no issues. I do hope my confidence isn't ill placed, because a failure of that could cause ENGINE FAILURE. If you held it in your hand, I think you would understand why I trust it... I've printed in everything PLA, ABS, ASA, PC, NGEN, HIPS, ABS+, you name it. This one doesn't feel or look like any of them. LOVE IT...

 

I picked up a steamer Vapamore MR-100 for free just recently. I plan on using it to clean the bay and suspension/wheel wells. I wish I had space for a dry-ice cleaner tho.

 

There is a local steam cleaner that cleans the underside of cars and engine bays in my area. He uses a industrial level steam cleaner and charges an affordable rate. You should have something similar in your area. I think his main customers are fleet trucks and vehicles.

 

Interesting. I've got a similar consumer-grade steam cleaner but I never thought to use it on the car.

It's a moderately scary device to use. I try not to point the hot steam jet at anything I'm not ready to replace if the hot steam destroys it. I suppose most automotive spots should be fine to clean with steam

 

So I kept boosting too high, and my boost gauge would alarm and I would let off. Today I hooked up the air compressor to the wastegate actuator and you know when the rod finally started to move? 35 PSI !!!! So needless to say, it is a good thing I didn't plant my foot and hope for the best! Based on the springs in the Tial MVI 2.5 it should have been 22 psi, but the preload on the flapper was STUPID. I pulled a spring (GREEN) bringing the base to 16 psi and set the pre-load correctly. I can now control between 16 psi and up (I'm sure to my limit).

Posting this view because I like how it shows the smooth in/out of the hot side with ARTEC in and AMS out; all cast stainless steel goodness.

 

The one I have does allow to adjust the pressure of the steam which is a nice feature.

 

Keep it up buddy ! keep posting

 

Well she is running amazing, and at only 22psi hit 275 load (which was my boost cut) so it felt like I hit a brick wall! No damage obviously.
I turned the boost down a hair and since this is E68 I'm going to throw a splash of E90 from a friend who buys that race grade ethanol and that way I can tune the TOP end of the power.
I want to keep the torque in check, and maybe have it do 500whp at MOST on full STREET kill mode. The track will obviously be way LOW boost and power so it survives at least a year or more before the "special" block is put in.

 

Ignoring the dirt.... This is the 3d printed bracket I made in CAD to hold the fuel pressure sender unit.

 

The custom work you do, really does set your build apart!