I just realized that once I swap out my original motor with this build, I really want that motor built to perfection because I want matching VIN. So this motor is more of a temporary use so I can take my time building my factory block.

So, this build should be "best value" build where I'll include any upgrades that isn't too expensive and save the bells and whistles for the second build (my original block).

 

Blocks aren't VIN'ed.

 

I saw this on ebay. Guess I'll check my car when I get home. Maybe this is JDM?

 

maybe he just means the block serial # matches the chassis. This is kind of a thing when it comes to classic cars, not so sure how much it would apply to the evo market, but it does make sense to want to keep them together if possible.

 

Just checked. My block does have matching VIN.

 

First time I've seen that. Looks like a sticker. Put it on the new motor lol

 

I was just wondering how hard would it be to remove and glue on another block

 

Yup, block does have matching VIN, as does the trans IIRC. I noticed it when I pulled my engine the first time. Still matching for this guy

But yea if you're just doing a "hold you over" build then just keep the factory crank and throw some cheap (Eagle, Manley, etc.) H beams at it with some equally cheap pistons. That's the route I went (Manley standard H beams and a set of their pistons) and the engine hasn't skipped a beat making 400whp/400wtq@3700ish on a 3B turbo.

 

Yes, hold me over, but the machine work still costs some. I'll look for value upgrades since I could look for another evo 9 with blown engine and drop it in that.

 

Get the block checked out, you may not need as much machine work done as you think. I haven't touched my block, my bores were immaculate so I just threw std sized pistons in. The main bores and deck were good as well so there wasn't any need for any machine work on my block. Just refresh the cyl walls with a ball hone to get the new rings to seal nicely and you're off to the races.

 

I bought bare evo 9 block. So I'll need crank, pistons, and rods anyway.

 

Just bought a FP MHI Black and a FP MHI Red.

 

You'll want better rods and pistons than bargain basement stuff to go with a black.

 

Thanks.

 

Make sure you get the wrist pin upgrade for those pistons. Which, like I said, will then put them in line with pricing for custom Wiseco's from ER. You can also get a better price on the crank.