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Make sure you get the wrist pin upgrade for those pistons. Which, like I said, will then put them in line with pricing for custom Wiseco's from ER. You can also get a better price on the crank.
I followed your advice and upgraded pins of my Manley pistons.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Jul 3, 2018 at 10:55 PM.
You don't need to worry about revving it to 10k unless you're going to spend a lot of money on cylinder head work, aftermarket intake manifold, big fuel system, huge turbo, dry sump, etc.
Its not gonna rav past 8500 with a black. It may fall off hard by 8500.
You don't need to worry about revving it to 10k unless you're going to spend a lot of money on cylinder head work, aftermarket intake manifold, big fuel system, huge turbo, dry sump, etc.
Its not gonna rav past 8500 with a black. It may fall off hard by 8500.
You're right. Power will probably peak 7500-8000 rpm. I just want cushion in case my clutch dies again at redline in 4th gear.
I will have oversized valves and CNC valve seats. My head should be done in next 2 weeks. Here's what it will look like before blending with the bowls.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Apr 26, 2018 at 02:47 PM.
I ran into this guy at Fontana last November. He got his engine built with the same head work with FP Black a few months ago and made 741 hp on RRE dyno. Black couldn't boost any higher than 41 psi, so we're thinking Black was maxed out with this head. His build included 10.5 CR pistons.
I ran into this guy at Fontana last November. He got his engine built with the same head work with FP Black a few months ago and made 741 hp on RRE dyno. Black couldn't boost any higher than 41 psi, so we're thinking Black was maxed out with this head. His build included 10.5 CR pistons.
That is some power but look at the shape of the curve. Its tapering badly. Backpressure is hard on things and moving to a larger turbine wheel would be advantageous . If you are trying to go to the moon or 10k rpm its going to need to be built in that direction.
You're over thinking this. The 94mm stroke is fine at 9000rpm with a 150mm rod. The 94/153 is fine at 9600 (for drag racing anyways, probably would keep either below 9000 for road course work). Regardless, with the red, it's going to make peak power around 7-7500, and be falling off by 8. You won't want to rev it past 8.
And if you're only going to throw a red at it, eagle Hbeams will more than handle what the red can make. They're good to about 570wtq. The red won't make more than about 525wtq.
Time under load and RPM should be considered with things. Making 500wtq at 4000rpm is harder on things then 500wtq at 6000rpm IMO. Keep in mind that alot of people run these cars hard, with less then ideal conditions. Things need to be extra tough. I would go with I beams or Carrillo Pro H on small turbo that can make alot of torque.
At times, people blame certain parts for failure but they were run outside what they were designed for. Or the tune up /car had issues.
Another thing to think about is how far the build could end up. Getting tough stuff is a good idea just incase more power is going to be made.
Time under load and RPM should be considered with things. Making 500wtq at 4000rpm is harder on things then 500wtq at 6000rpm IMO. Keep in mind that alot of people run these cars hard, with less then ideal conditions. Things need to be extra tough. I would go with I beams or Carrillo Pro H on small turbo that can make alot of torque.
At times, people blame certain parts for failure but they were run outside what they were designed for. Or the tune up /car had issues.
Another thing to think about is how far the build could end up. Getting tough stuff is a good idea just incase more power is going to be made.
Have seen eagles in a 2.3L with an FP black make 570wtq in an abused street car for a very long time.
That is some power but look at the shape of the curve. Its tapering badly. Backpressure is hard on things and moving to a larger turbine wheel would be advantageous . If you are trying to go to the moon or 10k rpm its going to need to be built in that direction.
I would love to make the best use of the Black. Are you saying the back pressure is causing the hp taper after 7500rpm? What can be changed to make a better power curve? Lower boost to where turbo is more efficient? Also, I'll have a slightly larger displacement to help move curve to the left. I plan to port the Black hotside too.
Another thing, my stock bottom end was exposed to small 71HTA turbo making 400+TQ for 5000 miles. Could this be why my lower portion of my cylinder walls are shiny and missing the cross hatch?
