I cant even really burp the coolant or bleed it whatever because I’m not gonna let it idle for any amount of time, so sorta stuck at the moment again lol oh well, I have work and other crap going on anyways.
wheels are on and she moves on her own , so crazy..
im glad it works and turned right on but I’m sorta bummed I wanted to drive it already...

 

Fixed one small boost leak and pressure tested coolant system and she runs much much better but my brakes feel like crap and I’m waiting for my tactrix cable to come in and get a base map from English before I attempt the first real road drive. Idle is much better but she needs some love I can’t give lol

 

Just got my base map from English Racing uploaded , love this sound!!
I have to replace more parts on my brake calipers before I can take it out( brake caliper connecting bridge).
I believe that’s what it’s called but ever since I had it powdercoated it leaks and it’s plenty tight, soon....

 

This build is inspiring on the attention to detail, awesome work man!

 

Thanks .... countless hours of work and research but if I can do this so can anyone else just have to want it bad enough

 

data logging 3rd and 4th gear cruise , feels so good to drive this car again but damn these brakes still don’t work right

 

LOL, i was waiting for you to hammer it

Whats up w/the brakes? Some simple Centric rotors, high temp fluid & StopTech Perf pad should solve it?

 

Haha oh I want to trust me !! They squish to the floor , then after I pump them once or twice they grab. I have a motive pressure bleeder and I’ve done this countless times but I’ve bled these brakes 5 times and twice after each drive, thinking it would dislodge any air. No luck...

 

Wash/wax the Evo today and took her out for a 30 mile gas station/ grocery store test drive haha, car feels better every time I drive it. Brakes most likely just need a ton of bleeding I suspect after watching some videos on YouTube about my issues.

 

Took the car out for a 50 mile test drive to work and back, she’s feels great!! Doing lots of engine decelerations and I don’t go above 3500-4000 rpm and zero boost but the bbk full is still whistling not in boost , the cam idle is amazing lol.
is it necessary to retorque cam caps ? I figured not but thought I’d ask. Thanks in advance

 

just got back from another drive , I’ll get a better driving one at some point. The car is awesome , sounds , smells all of it. I missed this thing the last 8 months!!

I need to get these miles in so I can start some fun WOT pulls for my tuner, which by the way is surprisingly easy to log data and send emails and flash new files etc.
I need to address the brakes which I’m sending my spare front set of calipers to detective this time and I’m going to do a DIY string alignmentjust so it’s a little straighter than it is now.

 

Clean!

 

Thanks !!
so I’ve put around 300 miles on the car and minus little issues here and there the car runs great. I’m going to pull the valve cover and just double check cam caps torque and maybe head stud re torque?
thoughts on retorquing head studs? I’ve read a lot of different opinions on here. Thanks in advanced

 

Hit 500 miles on my break in yesterday , changed the trans,tc and rear diff fluid and it looked great. I’ll be changing the oil and using PennGrade break in for the last 500 miles.
I was using amsoil 10w40 before and had no issues so I’ll prob use that again.
Car is running great

 

Exhaust cam was wobbling a little too much for my comfort so I removed it and checked it all out and seems either A) a warped gear or B) wasn’t seated fully on camshaft but I dunno to be honest. I replaced it with a new gear and cam seal, bled lifters and cleaned everything. Car is running again and back on the road to finish my break in. Fun times haha oh and now all the gears run smooth and no odd wobble.. 600 miles in