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Those DynaPaks at RRE make me wonder whether their working OK. Ive witnessed a couple of tune & pull sessions & they seemed like they were putting a huge load on the drivetrain (dont know why, but seemed the machines were harsh & out of spec). I asked Mike, but he said they were OK even though the hood shrouds were removed (that was months ago)
I guess the Reese shop is no longer? Spent the day down there a few years ago & have heard some of the stories
I thought the same thing when I saw this video on tuning work being done there and the steering wheel was shaking quite a bit.
They really put those things to work since they see high horsepower work at MOD
The block has arrived from MAPerformance and I am very pleased! I couldn't wait to throw it on the engine stand and start bolting up parts.
Shipping pallet with engine box secured to it.
Cutting open the box for the first time. That loose part is my rear main seal housing. They cleaned that up as well.
Getting ready to place it on the engine stand. I kept it covered in plastic until it was off the floor.
At this point I prepared my air compressor, coffee filters (which still leaves lint behind by the way so be careful) and brake cleaner.
I opted for the pre-installed front oil pump housing option and balanced shaft delete. Oil passages were taped off to keep contaminants out.
Red plug is for the Mivec Oil feed
Money Shot. The block surface and all bores have a mirror like finish. A thin layer of oil keeps everything safe from corrosion. Bare blocks like this should always be covered when not working on them.
Valve reliefs of the Wiseco HD 1400 piston. I believe the dot on each piston represents timing side placement?
The right billet crank for the job. You can see here where MAP has balanced crank portion of the rotating assembly.
View of the I beam rods and bottom of the pistons.
Installed Oil pick up tube and baffle. Cleaned with compressed air. All hardware torqued to spec.
Just in case people were curious about the crank and oil baffle clearance. We have plenty, even in a 2.3
Laying down a bead of Black RTV to seal the buschur baffled oil pan to the block.
Secured the oil pan following the RTV instruction on the tube. I used STM's oil pan allen bolts for a clean look. My old oil pan bolts look like crap.
After bolting on the oil filter housing, I used a breaker bar to take off the two oil plugs on each side to replace with oil fittings. The right sized allen socket and breaker bar gets these loose without any heat. This is done so I can have an oil source for my oil pressure gauge and one for my turbo. One of these is post filter for the turbo. I also installed a new oil pressure sending unit. I used high temp thread sealant on everything instead of yellow teflon tape.
After bolting on a new water pump, balance shaft sprocket spacer, trigger plate, crank gear, cylinder block bracket, ac bracket, and power steering bracket.
ARP hardware everywhere. Here you can see the second place MAP used to balance the crank shaft.
Finally, I installed the water pipe assembly, oil dip stick, and alternator before wrapping the block in shrink wrap and calling it a day.
Now I'm just waiting for the cylinder head and intake manifold to get back from Boostin Performance. Then I can begin final assembly and throw on the rest of the goodies.
I must add, I was very happy that the front cover oil pump housing came with an oil pump gear. If it had not, I would have been stuck using a vice grip and an old timing belt to tighten the oil pump nut to around 40 ftlbs and praying I did not oval the gear. No balance shaft = no place to jam the oil pump.
I might need some help with one particular part guys.
I'm unsure about the wastegate setup needed to hold up to 40 psi reliably without any drivability/boost creep issues etc. I've installed the 20 psi spring combo.
A
B
Sorry for the crappy pics. Any input is appreciated. I keep hearing A is the way to go.
I would bring wastegate springs to your tuning session. Typically, getting double the boost of your spring pressure is about all you can get, so 40psi. And that's if the turbo is really up to the task.
I would bring wastegate springs to your tuning session. Typically, getting double the boost of your spring pressure is about all you can get, so 40psi. And that's if the turbo is really up to the task.
Thanks man,
Yeah, i'll bring some extra springs for sure. Looking at the inside of the wastegate is confusing to me.
In pic A, the BCS seems to be using boost pressure to lift the plunger and open the wastegate when needed. Does this mean that in this setup, the only thing keeping my wastegate closed is the spring pressure? Thus, the 20psi springs actually hold back 40psi of pressure before the wastegate cracks open?
Yeah, i'll bring some extra springs for sure. Looking at the inside of the wastegate is confusing to me.
In pic A, the BCS seems to be using boost pressure to lift the plunger and open the wastegate when needed. Does this mean that in this setup, the only thing keeping my wastegate closed is the spring pressure? Thus, the 20psi springs actually hold back 40psi of pressure before the wastegate cracks open?
-pal215
No. The "20psi" does not mean those springs exert 20psi of force on the wastegate valve. 20psi of spring means the wastegate opens when it sees 20psi at that bottom port (so, if you had a straight reference line with no boost controller, the gate would, in theory, open at 20psi of boost, this also largely dependent on exhaust manifold pressure). When you add a boost controller, you're regulating how much pressure goes to the bottom port, so it runs more boost.
No. The "20psi" does not mean those springs exert 20psi of force on the wastegate valve. 20psi of spring means the wastegate opens when it sees 20psi at that bottom port (so, if you had a straight reference line with no boost controller, the gate would, in theory, open at 20psi of boost, this also largely dependent on exhaust manifold pressure). When you add a boost controller, you're regulating how much pressure goes to the bottom port, so it runs more boost.
Ah, now it makes sense!
Thanks for clearing that up for me. This entire time I thought that wastegate spring pressure had a different purpose.
The springs are what hold the gate closed. It's the "pressure" that they are rated at is the pressure that will open the gate with a boost reference line (depending on back pressure in the manifold).
Do you guys ever revisit issues once you find a better way to fix them? That's what I did tonight.
I removed all of my crimped connections I installed with the STM fuel pump hard wire kit and soldered everything instead. Fuel resistant adhesive heat shrink was used on all connections.
I also removed my walbro 450 and resoldered that as well after finding out that the write up on here failed to mention the important use of fuel resistant heat shrink. My old heat shrink was already coming off and that was with residual fuel vapor! Be careful guys, if your exposed fuel pump supply wires touch in the tank because the heat shrink came off, you could have an explosion waiting to happen.
Lineman splice on everything for max surface area conduction.
Old heat shrink already coming off on the left, new adhesive heat shrink applied on the right for the blue/red connection
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