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The"I don't feel like doing that" clutch replacement method
Evo GeneralDiscuss any generalized technical Evo related topics that may not fit into the other forums.
Please do not post tech and rumor threads here.
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I didn't remove the tie rods, or power steering lines when I did my clutch replacement. Didn't even completely remove the subframe. Had 2 bolts out of the 4 in and had them on by a few threads and a ratcheting tie down strap for support. Took a while to do mine cause I had to install the rebuild kit I bought from jacks.
I didn't remove the tie rods, or power steering lines when I did my clutch replacement. Didn't even completely remove the subframe. Had 2 bolts out of the 4 in and had them on by a few threads and a ratcheting tie down strap for support. Took a while to do mine cause I had to install the rebuild kit I bought from jacks.
If you did not remove steering shaft (or column), you did not drop crossmember enough to get trans exactly inline with bellhousing, before you attempt to mate them together (IE, trans bellhousing perfectly inline while you can still see entire clutch assembly).
I am not being physically able to muscle trans in at an angle (I used adjustable trans jack that let me slide trans in @ the perfect angle). Due to the price of these clutches and amount of work required for this job, I was at least somewhat concerned with weight of trans, hanging input shaft on clutch disk and lightly bending disk. Some had reported this happening in threads I read and ended up with a dragging clutch.
Anyway, 100 ways to do it easier, but this is the only way that gets you everything I described in my first post, YMMV.............
If you did not remove steering shaft (or column), you did not drop crossmember enough to get trans exactly inline with bellhousing, before you attempt to mate them together (IE, trans bellhousing perfectly inline while you can still see entire clutch assembly).
I am not being physically able to muscle trans in at an angle (I used adjustable trans jack that let me slide trans in @ the perfect angle). Due to the price of these clutches and amount of work required for this job, I was at least somewhat concerned with weight of trans, hanging input shaft on clutch disk and lightly bending disk. Some had reported this happening in threads I read and ended up with a dragging clutch.
Anyway, 100 ways to do it easier, but this is the only way that gets you everything I described in my first post, YMMV.............
Used a floor jack and ratcheting tie downs to get trans in place. Only had to lower subframe enough to get transfer case in or out. Other then that I put bolts back in to support subframe while trans was coming out, out for rebuild, or going back in. Then lowered it to get transfer case back in. Did not drop it more then I needed.
Hardest parts for me were getting transfer case in or out, and that stupid wave clip. Got a quartermaster twin in there now. Not sure if like to go back to a pull type. IMO.
I dunno about the six speed, but on the five speed, on the selector shaft bracket there's a maybe 3/8 inch hole that is at the transmission's exact center of gravity. In other words, connect there and when lifted the transmission hangs level. I'm guessing the hole is there to facilitate moving transmissions around at the factory since they are so heavy.
If you can rig something to suspend the transmission, stabbing it is easy. I had a fancy engine hanger and an old chain fall hoist I got from Menards. With that I could easily move or tilt the transmission as required. Here's a picture.
