Having had this experience on a friends DSM (new freeze plugs leaking), I can say it's not from a tune issue. Also, his tuner is solid when it comes to WOT tuning, no issues there. But certain cars develop a part throttle drivability issue on speed density, and he just isn't capable of fixing it.

 

Well, if his tune is solid WOT then we're in agreement that it was most likely an issue when the plug was installed. I dind't know that prior; all I had read was that there was some issues with the tune and a freezeplug leaking so I assumed the car was knocking and maybe lifting the head causing it to blow out.

And Pal, I'm sure a socket will work fine but if you can get a bearing/ seal driver tool that would be even better. I wanna say you can even rent them but I think HF has a cheap set too. If you can only get to it with the head off now is the time to do it proper.

 

Good luck with the build! Seems like it's going to be a beautiful beast when she's finally done =)

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the advice and words of encouragement.

I cleaned up the mating surfaces of the engine, reinstalled the head with a fresh head gasket, and set my timing marks.

The new freeze plug came in, but I made a newb mistake and hammered it in too deep. I had to take it back out. I initially used a large socket, but after it was flush against the block I used a slightly smaller one to drive it in 1/8". It went in more like 1/3"....so basically fail. As a result, i'm just going to pick up a freeze plug installer tool and do it right. I thought they would rent them out at Autozone, but it's not a normal in store item.

It's amazing how fast coolant can ruin fresh engine paint.







-pal215

 

That will all hose off when you get it back together.

 

I look forward to giving the lower part of the engine bay a good scrub!

I almost dropped a freeze plug inside the block LOL. Any idea on what would happen if it fell all the way in? Looks like one would have to pull the motor and rotate it around until it came back up to the hole so you can get it out

....hehehe..stupid freeze plugs...

-pal215

 

It definitely wouldn't be fun getting it out. Probably couldn't leave it in there, would create a bunch of noise for the knock sensor I would think.

 

#rickrolled



z
e
R
e
p

 

I'm ready to hear your story behind that when you're ready to tell it

-pal215

 

Update:

After 30 minutes of swearing, I successfully installed the freeze plug last night using a freeze plug tool adapter plate and some rtv. I needed to remove the Mivec hardline completely otherwise there was no way to set the damn thing in straight with such little hammering space back there. It sits flush with the block now.

After that I buttoned her up completely. Installed the intake manifold with new gasket, valve cover, hooked up all the coolant lines, reconnected the sensors, solenoids, and injectors, installed the valve cover, Spark coils, catch can, and stopped there for the night.

This entire time I was using the OEM diverter valve hose for boost recirc into the intake pipe. Running the aftermarket diverter valve in the stock location made me have to bend the radiator hose up and cut the lower part of my cam sensor heat shield off. To prevent further awkwardness, I decided to move it over to right under the UICP and block off the intake pipe inlet. +1 Ricer points for me, but it fits perfectly and i'll try to post a picture later. I figured since a SD retune is in my future, i'll make all the silly changes I need now.

-pal215

 

so much work for a stupid freez plug.


good job

 

Haha right? Too many things need to come apart when doing anything on this car.

Last night I finished putting the car back together and filled it with coolant. It started and drove around the block just fine.

The original, 1st attempt, and successful freeze plug.




Here is a picture of where I put the diverter valve now. It used to be right on top of my intake pipe, but it would hit the radiator hose. I never felt good about it so I moved it.






-pal215

 

Hey guys,

This is going to sound kinda stupid, but does anybody know of a clutch that would hold 700lbft of torque quietly? Exedy Tripple and Quarter Master 8-leg are monsterously loud.

My guess is the only way is a heavy pressure plate single disk clutch that would probably crank walk the motor.

-pal215

 

The exedy triple is only loud when you have the clutch pedal pushed in and the clutch is disengaged. Otherwise is like any other unsprung clutch. A little extra noise from the trans at idle, but not a huge deal.

 

Quarter master 6 leg can also hold this much torque but its juddery.