Pretty similar to mine. -10 an fitting. Did one in the back too, but have it capped for now.

 

That also looks good man. I also like the way you capped the other side until you need it. Right now i'm deciding between doing that fitting, which Tom has tested to be enough or getting the STM sealed catch can. I think I want to do the -10an fitting first and see if my oil stops vanishing. I found burnt oil stuck to the bottom of the middle v-band clamp of my turbo today which makes me think oil is getting pushed out of the hot side seal.

-pal215

 

This is exactly how mine is, mine had 2 -8an fittings I capped the rear one and need to drill the front out to a -10an to fit my line but for now it's just got a reducer on it. The port on the back of the cover has a -6an to a separate can that goes to the intake manifold.
I haven't had any issues out if it in my new build since doing this. I'm only hitting 15psi at the moment though.

 

That's very close to what I'm planning to do next!

So apparently crank case pressure has bitten me in the a$$ as well. I'm getting the same exact problem that Tom had from the first post of the famous crankcase pressure thread. I have oil getting pushed back into my FP black causing burnt oil to appear outside of the center vband of the turbo.

Here's what I plan to do this week. Its a little different approach with hopefully the same results. I'll be using the stock bov location as the intake tap without a catch can since hardly any oil flows out of that front port. A larger check valve in place of the factory PCV valve in the rear of the valve cover connected to the STM vented can converted to sealed catch can and larger lines of course. I hope this works as Tom states that just the -10an hole in the front should be enough. I'm only addressing the back with a larger check valve to help with pulling out crank case pressure in cruise since people generally cruise in -8 to -10psi vacuum. This would effectively convert me over to a sealed catch can setup on the cheap and follow of FP recommends for their turbos.









I hope this works!

-pal215

 

Personally I'd leave the stock pcv system alone, doesn't seem necessary to mess with it to relieve pressure at these power/boost/pressure levels.

 

True. Although it won't make a difference under boost, it might help under vacuum. For everything else, that 5/8" barbed fitting with a hose plumed into the intake pipe is going to have to work. I don't want to have to resort to using my downpipe to place a vacuum on the crank case.

-pal215

 

I'd recommend the following things.
IF ( bearing clearance ) you can run 5-40 that will help with some draining as the engine is heating up and the pistons are starting to grow and seal better. Cold Molaassses thick 20-50 VR1 really pissed my car (stock or built engine ) off.
13-1400 rpm idle cold
1150-1200 idle warm with a baffled catch can back to the intake.
You can also measure oil pressure going to the turbo and adjust if need be. I've seen some .020 restrictors on some FP stuff as of late.

It seems the increased idle speed and smooth idle pulls vacuum well and the turbo smoke is less/gone at least for me.

 

Hmm, that's a good point. The engine has had 20w50 for about 2500 miles now. I have an engine build sheet around here somewhere so that I can post bearing and ring clearances. Maybe I should switch over to a 10w40 and see what happens..

-pal215

 

Sucks you have a JB turbo. Amsoil Signature series 5w50 works great in my car with the BB turbo, but it doesn't have the ZDDP for the JB turbo. You want to get the cold weight down though, so I'm sure you find a 5w50 or 10w50 that will work.

However, the JB turbos aren't as problematic as the BB stuff, so once you open up the venting it should be fine.

 

The FP BB Black was too expensive for me at the time XD. All my crank case venting parts should be coming in this week. I killed a 1992 corded Black and Decker drill while drilling through the valve cover and aluminum BOV plug. The magnesium was cake to deal with because I already had my valve cover baffles drilled and tapped when it got powder coated. No screws were even close to backing out and were all tight, but I removed the baffling for easier clean up of the chunks of magnesium.

I thought the bov plug was hollow in the middle...nope! It was a solid chunk of aluminum that dulled the hell out of my drill bits even with cutting oil. The drill has been in family forever and we have put it through all kinds of hell. I'm proud that it finished the job just before it died though. What a champ!

Time to bust out the dremmel tool for some finishing touches.







-pal215

 

Pal215 Disregard what I said on the restrictor. You have a JB so it should be fine.

Hopefully you get it figured out.

 

No Problem

Just out of curiosity, would anyone happen to know when there is "too much" oil pressure for a JB turbo? My oil pressure range is from 30 psi to 120 psi when hot, but it should go down when I switch to a lighter weight oil.

Just want to make sure I don't have to put regulate oil pressure to the JB turbo at all.

Are the oil seals in jb turbo that leak from crank case pressure return line back-flow different than the seals that handle keeping the oil in the turbo from just oil pressure?

-pal215

 

I believe the oil feed from the head is regulated. You should be running an fp inline filter with .125" restrictor (red one)

 

It is true that the oil feed from the head is regulated (Down to 60 psi I think?) , but I'm running my line straight from the oil filter housing using an inline filter from MAP so that the turbo see's the main oil pressure at all times.

An oil restrictor shouldn't be needed with JB correct ?

-pal215

 

FP recommends a .125" on their JB turbos.