RPW Cam shaft and Cam Gear ARRIVED!!
89 is regular at some stations here, that's why I ask. Sucks for you Cali people. 
Eh, by the time I do my cam I'll be on 91+ anyway. Thanks.
(To clarify you mean advance your ignition timing, not valve timing, right?)

Eh, by the time I do my cam I'll be on 91+ anyway. Thanks.

~89 octane..no need to run 91 unless you advance your timing.
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Doing some trade work (tattoo) on a mechanic for the install....I'll keep you guys posted as it happens....it will be easier doing the install if I'm standing there helping out.
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STRIKE TWO!!! Just had MODACAR tell me they couldn't install the camshaft. Said they didn't have the correct tools and labor on the install would take a while and would be very $$$$. So, I guess the only thing left to do is to do this myself with the help of a mechanic I'm going to tattoo for his help. I'll be sure to document the whole process for those who want to do this mod in the future. **** shops who aren't willing to put in a little damn effort. I'm sending the camshaft out to get tapped properly and as soon as it comes back, I'm starting the install. I'll take pics of the process and do an indepth how to for it.
U9V
U9V
Damn, I didn't think this would be that tough of an instal for a shop. Good luck doing it yourself. It should be fun doing it with someone who knows whats up. Looking forward to hearing about your success.
Allright:
Make sure you have basic tools and ENGINE ASSEMBLY LUBE.
Now take off upper timing belt cover. Remove intake. Remove the camshaft position sensor (this is the side you will pull the cam out from. MARK the timing belt with paint or some means that will leave a visible mark (whiteout?) and mark the camgear at the same place. Remove the ignition coils. Remove the valve cover.
Now the fun stuff:
Go ahead and relieve the timing belt tension (simply slip loosen the tensioner pulley bolt then slide a flat tip screwdriver in the "adjustment slot" and apply force while retightening the tensioner pulley bolt). You will need to apply a large force on the camshaft bolt (on the timing gear). I suggest leaving the car in gear with the wheels on the ground. This provides resistance to keep the engine from spinning (also leave the spark plugs in the head to add some compression resistance). Now remove the cam gear and TRY to KEEP THE TIMING BELT ON THE GEAR! It makes it easier (unless you are installing a new cam gear at the same time...in this case don't follow these instructions as I would have to modify them slightly). Okay I suggest lowering the engine on the timing belt side by loosening the bolts on the timing belt motor mount. This gives a slight angle to make pulling the camshaft out easier.
Final steps:
Pull out old camshaft. Take new camshaft and insure that the surfaces are CLEAN!!!!!! Now rub a light coating of engine assembly lube on the journals and cam lobes. Slide the new cam in place. Turn the cam to line up the "dowel" in the cam with the "dowel hole" in the gear. Re-install everything and DOUBLE CHECK everything.
Ready to roll:
I suggest the "standard" camshaft break in procedure. With the engine in neutral go ahead and bring the engine speed up to 2000rpm for several minutes. Now make sure everything sounds okay and you have no check engine lights. Go cruise and enjoy the new power.
Make sure you have basic tools and ENGINE ASSEMBLY LUBE.
Now take off upper timing belt cover. Remove intake. Remove the camshaft position sensor (this is the side you will pull the cam out from. MARK the timing belt with paint or some means that will leave a visible mark (whiteout?) and mark the camgear at the same place. Remove the ignition coils. Remove the valve cover.
Now the fun stuff:
Go ahead and relieve the timing belt tension (simply slip loosen the tensioner pulley bolt then slide a flat tip screwdriver in the "adjustment slot" and apply force while retightening the tensioner pulley bolt). You will need to apply a large force on the camshaft bolt (on the timing gear). I suggest leaving the car in gear with the wheels on the ground. This provides resistance to keep the engine from spinning (also leave the spark plugs in the head to add some compression resistance). Now remove the cam gear and TRY to KEEP THE TIMING BELT ON THE GEAR! It makes it easier (unless you are installing a new cam gear at the same time...in this case don't follow these instructions as I would have to modify them slightly). Okay I suggest lowering the engine on the timing belt side by loosening the bolts on the timing belt motor mount. This gives a slight angle to make pulling the camshaft out easier.
Final steps:
Pull out old camshaft. Take new camshaft and insure that the surfaces are CLEAN!!!!!! Now rub a light coating of engine assembly lube on the journals and cam lobes. Slide the new cam in place. Turn the cam to line up the "dowel" in the cam with the "dowel hole" in the gear. Re-install everything and DOUBLE CHECK everything.
Ready to roll:
I suggest the "standard" camshaft break in procedure. With the engine in neutral go ahead and bring the engine speed up to 2000rpm for several minutes. Now make sure everything sounds okay and you have no check engine lights. Go cruise and enjoy the new power.



