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Looks fairly typical. The pump has probably been starved a time or three. Pumps aren't that expensive. But their is a spec for wear that you can check with feeler gauges.
Since I decided to go to AN line instead of using the evap etc, I put the rear sub-frame all back together. Cleaned it while it was off. Got some new inspiration along the way, these photos make me drool.
Also picked up some Evo X calipers. I dont plan to run them for some time, until I burn out what I just built. But I got em for $300 which I thought was a good deal so I jumped on them.
I love your attention to detail and thoroughness! Have you thought about moving to a larger turbo?
I'd be interested to see how much your car weighs after you finish all this up. If you manage to get the car out for any events this year let me know, it'd be awesome to meet you and see the car in person!
Thank you. I'm curious what the weight pre-cage will be also. And as far as turbo, thinking about a 71 HTA off of an evo9 turbo. Lots more to do but have been busy with life lately. Took a job in St Louis area so starting to work towards relocating.
Progress will not stop, just need to sort some other things out first. Updates forthcoming.
I love the BBK 3B on my car. Spooled by 4k and doesn't have any issue holding power to redline. When the time comes for a different turbo I think I'll move to a BB FP green or red.
IMO for track use it's definitely a good idea to go a tad on the larger side in order to keep shaft speeds lower and keep the turbo happy.
Smallish update but it took me a while to get done. Tapped egr port and installed plug. Put new front cover/oilpump and filter housing on. Did balance shaft delete but am using GSC race shaft. New water pump, timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys etc. Sure hope I got tension correct on the belt... And hope there wont be any oil contamination.
Smallish update but it took me a while to get done. Tapped egr port and installed plug. Put new front cover/oilpump and filter housing on. Did balance shaft delete but am using GSC race shaft. New water pump, timing belt, tensioner, idler pulleys etc. Sure hope I got tension correct on the belt... And hope there wont be any oil contamination.
For belt tension it should be pretty taught but not rock solid. I had a little under an inch of play in both directions between the cam gears when I set mine.
You should be able to slide the grenade pin in and out of the hole in the tensioner after spinning the motor over a few times, that is proper belt tension.
From the manual (how I understood it) pin should spin free after setting tension and timing. Then rotate motor twice without pin. Wait 15min and once tensioner bleeds away tension, in resting state should be able to put pin back. Rotating motor makes the auto-tensioner increase tension and inflates lifters.
I just turned the motor again and waited 15 mins. This is my reading on the tensioner. Maybe I need to add more tension. Manual says between 3.8 and 4.5. Hard to get a real accurate reading...
Jul 11, 2017, 10:07 AM
