we can probably take care that this weekend around saturday.

 

okay here we go. i know i told some of you already. but i know im gonna need and want to get a stroker kit and (or) some engine rebuilding in the long run since im dragin the car. i saw the hks stroker kit and a cosworth rebuilt 2.2 ltre block. you think i should buy this first or go with the rest of the bolt ons before gettin to that. only thing i can think is that im gonna want the bigger and stronger engine to support the more powerful and stronger outputs due to the bolt on parts later on in the process. but would it matter to get the bolt ons (turbo, fuel pump, injectors, rail, intake mani.........etc) now and be able to use them efficiently when i get the stroker and block, or get the block and stroker now then get all the appropiate bolt ons later?????? and also what you guys think about the seibon hoods? is it a mod worth doing or just stick with the stocker. i must admit it will look good. but payin all that money for looks seems a bit high, at least for this kinda mod.

 

done!

 

B, I'm just saying. 114 and below are made specifically for naturally aspirated engines with compression ratios 14:1 and below. At 28psi and 8.8:1 static compression ratio you got over 22:1 comp ratio. C16 is made for turbo and blowers for over 20:1 comp ratios. And you only save like $10 after you buy plugs. Just my opinion.

 

See, ya had to go and throw logic at me Bobby....

Who said crew chiefs were booger hookers?

 

Let me give you my .02 from lots of reading and personal experience.

If your primary goal for the car is drag racing stick with the 2.0-liter or 2.1 stroker. Anything above that and your limiting your RPM's based on rod length and stroke. There is a reason why AMS and Buschur still use the 2.0 vs. a larger displacement. The longer the stroke the more pressure is put onto the wrist pin and piston. Think of the piston as bucket full of water at the end of a rope. When that rope short it is easier to spin around. As the rope gets longer it takes a lot stronger grip to keep it in your hands due to centrifigul motion. Same theory applies to reciprocating engines. You can trade off some rod length to gain torque but only so much before the metal material of the rod starts to stretch.

So what do you do to make up for low displacement? A bigger blower. In order to run a GT37 or larger turbo for drag racing purposes you need an extreme amount of combustion energy which is achieved by high octane and high compression to spool the large compressor wheel. Hence why a GT35 and larger turbos are best run on C16 race gas to operate in the compression range optimal for thier perfomance.

Now if you are like me and only drag race on occasion for fun, a stroker is a good alternative to large CFM turbo's but without the lag. The extra torque from a stroker will only help with spool up. After turbo reaches optimum efficiency you won't make any more gains (subject to supporting mods). This is a great combo for street performance but not so much for drag racing.

As for Seibon....they can kiss the spot on my *** that never sees sunlight. Their products are crap and do not weigh any less than the stock aluminum hood. If you are truely serious about drag racing, you'll invest A LOT of money in dry carbon body panels, fully stripped interior and a dumping all your hard earned Sgt duckets into the engine and drivetrain.

 

what he said....

seibon its actualy heavier than your hood.

IMO.Engine...build your 2.0. pistons, rods, clevite bearings. upgrade fuel system, pump, lines, rail, fuel press reg and injectors. get a turbo kit, gt30/gt35. dont stroke it, save your money for the drive train, ask CE. and if you still have money, coil on plug, intake and AEM EMS.

and after your done....you can sell me the car so i dont have to go through all that.

 

+1 for each of them... a lot of guys went with the 2.3 when it was first available and attempted to drag, they quickly found out that they were making better times in the 1/4 with the 2.0. While you wont necessarily have the same torque or power, the 2.0 for drag purposes is a better choice. IMO, build it strong, get supporting mods in the drivetrain IE shep/tre tranny and shep tcase. Buy the little things that matter like the drivetrain bushings that are now becoming popular to keep that thing steady. Find yourself a good turbo, i'd say personally from all i've read the gt35, i'd go with ams's setup for appearance, i think buschurs is a bit cheaper however. drop in the dual walboro setup buschur runs, upgrade fuel lines, regulator, rail.... definitely get hold of an ems and there really isnt much more for supporting mods after that. you have everything you need already minus the IC.

 

all that knowledge and you guys are still in the military....

 

shooting bad guys and blowing **** up is fun too

 

^ Word

 

he didnt say tanning in a lawn chair and drinking lemonade... he said shooting bad guys is fun.

 

bwahahahahahahahaha ^^^


booger-eaters =

 

Yea but I can still play SOCOM on Playstation and feel like I'm part of the action!

Besides, without me you guys wouldn't be getting your regular delivery of beans, bullets and TP!

 

So So true.....BTW guys I spotted and evo that I havent seen around here....it was yellow with Cali plates