Fayetteville/Ft Bragg/Pope AFB -- TAKE TWO!!!
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From: Destin/Fort Walton Beach, FL
Let me give you my .02 from lots of reading and personal experience.
If your primary goal for the car is drag racing stick with the 2.0-liter or 2.1 stroker. Anything above that and your limiting your RPM's based on rod length and stroke. There is a reason why AMS and Buschur still use the 2.0 vs. a larger displacement. The longer the stroke the more pressure is put onto the wrist pin and piston. Think of the piston as bucket full of water at the end of a rope. When that rope short it is easier to spin around. As the rope gets longer it takes a lot stronger grip to keep it in your hands due to centrifigul motion. Same theory applies to reciprocating engines. You can trade off some rod length to gain torque but only so much before the metal material of the rod starts to stretch.
So what do you do to make up for low displacement? A bigger blower. In order to run a GT37 or larger turbo for drag racing purposes you need an extreme amount of combustion energy which is achieved by high octane and high compression to spool the large compressor wheel. Hence why a GT35 and larger turbos are best run on C16 race gas to operate in the compression range optimal for thier perfomance.
Now if you are like me and only drag race on occasion for fun, a stroker is a good alternative to large CFM turbo's but without the lag. The extra torque from a stroker will only help with spool up. After turbo reaches optimum efficiency you won't make any more gains (subject to supporting mods). This is a great combo for street performance but not so much for drag racing.
As for Seibon....they can kiss the spot on my *** that never sees sunlight. Their products are crap and do not weigh any less than the stock aluminum hood. If you are truely serious about drag racing, you'll invest A LOT of money in dry carbon body panels, fully stripped interior and a dumping all your hard earned Sgt duckets into the engine and drivetrain.
If your primary goal for the car is drag racing stick with the 2.0-liter or 2.1 stroker. Anything above that and your limiting your RPM's based on rod length and stroke. There is a reason why AMS and Buschur still use the 2.0 vs. a larger displacement. The longer the stroke the more pressure is put onto the wrist pin and piston. Think of the piston as bucket full of water at the end of a rope. When that rope short it is easier to spin around. As the rope gets longer it takes a lot stronger grip to keep it in your hands due to centrifigul motion. Same theory applies to reciprocating engines. You can trade off some rod length to gain torque but only so much before the metal material of the rod starts to stretch.
So what do you do to make up for low displacement? A bigger blower. In order to run a GT37 or larger turbo for drag racing purposes you need an extreme amount of combustion energy which is achieved by high octane and high compression to spool the large compressor wheel. Hence why a GT35 and larger turbos are best run on C16 race gas to operate in the compression range optimal for thier perfomance.
Now if you are like me and only drag race on occasion for fun, a stroker is a good alternative to large CFM turbo's but without the lag. The extra torque from a stroker will only help with spool up. After turbo reaches optimum efficiency you won't make any more gains (subject to supporting mods). This is a great combo for street performance but not so much for drag racing.
As for Seibon....they can kiss the spot on my *** that never sees sunlight. Their products are crap and do not weigh any less than the stock aluminum hood. If you are truely serious about drag racing, you'll invest A LOT of money in dry carbon body panels, fully stripped interior and a dumping all your hard earned Sgt duckets into the engine and drivetrain.
i see where you are coming from, and with that being said i can lean more towards the turbo upgrade. i wanna build up the engine though. ill just have to keep it 2.0, dont know what all i wanna build up on. i was looking through all the turbos and i dont wanna get anything that is gonna make spool up time worse then it already is, also i really dont wanna have to rely on race gas all the time for my turbo to run efficiently. hence why i dont think i wanna go into the GT35. i didnt look much anywhere just of yet but saw the 30 and 35R turbos on gruppes, the 35 looked alot bigger then the 30. i guess lemme ask this, you got 15k designated for underneath the hood. you have what i have now and you want to drag the car. what sequence and what would you get with that budget in mind. i want max power and torque without the sacrifice of spool response is what i really want. this is the first major leap into the mods so bear with me.
heres what I would do:
AMS or Bushur - 2.0 long block, 35r (AMS) or 3065 (Buschur), ALKY (will let you run high boost on pump all the time
), fmic + ic piping, TiaL bov, dual fuel pumps, fuel press reg, fuel rail, 880cc or 1000cc injectors, twin disc, shep trans (w/ 4.11 gears), shep transfer case, and a stand alone EMSall this would equal a track and highway monster, I really dont think the driveability would be all that bad either to be honest...
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The turbo is the major factor in determining your torque. A smaller turbo will spool fast and create a lot of lower end torque but will run out of air in the higher RPM's. This is great for rally cars because they usually have an *** load of torque for making major acceleration changes at low RPM's.
This however will not work for you in drag racing as you need the full range of RPM's (5000 to redline) in order to maximize accelartion and keep you from shifting too often (each shift will waste about .5 seconds) This is why all the big drag cars use a huge turbo. They are more efficient in airflow the faster they spin. Of course as you know the downside to this is turbo lag. There are a few things to offset this lag at your disposal. With AEM tuning you can use a staged nitrous injection to spool a big turbo coming off the line. The nitrous will shut off once the RPM's have reached a certain level giving the turbo enough time to reach full spool.
The stock turbo on the IX is capable of reaching 10 second times. But you will require some serious tuning and either race gas or meth injection. Also needed will be a properly designed and built motor. You can't just buy somebody's 2.0 build kit and slap it in. You need to have properly designed pistion hats to enhance flame propogation, head work for the increased flow and proper machining of the block and head surfaces to make it all seal up tight. Any of the big shops that race often (AMS, Buschur, GSC etc.) should be able to build you a very strong motor and if I were you that is where I would start. Then get your tuning done with a stand-alone EMS. Follow that up with a proper suspension. After the "driver" mod the next best thing to work on is suspension. It can make or break your launch. But beware, a properly tuned launch suspension will not drive very well on the streets.
I could keep goin on and on but you really need to decide what your final goal is with this car. Otherwise you'll continue to spend more and more money and possibly never finding the end goal to satisfy your taste.
This however will not work for you in drag racing as you need the full range of RPM's (5000 to redline) in order to maximize accelartion and keep you from shifting too often (each shift will waste about .5 seconds) This is why all the big drag cars use a huge turbo. They are more efficient in airflow the faster they spin. Of course as you know the downside to this is turbo lag. There are a few things to offset this lag at your disposal. With AEM tuning you can use a staged nitrous injection to spool a big turbo coming off the line. The nitrous will shut off once the RPM's have reached a certain level giving the turbo enough time to reach full spool.
The stock turbo on the IX is capable of reaching 10 second times. But you will require some serious tuning and either race gas or meth injection. Also needed will be a properly designed and built motor. You can't just buy somebody's 2.0 build kit and slap it in. You need to have properly designed pistion hats to enhance flame propogation, head work for the increased flow and proper machining of the block and head surfaces to make it all seal up tight. Any of the big shops that race often (AMS, Buschur, GSC etc.) should be able to build you a very strong motor and if I were you that is where I would start. Then get your tuning done with a stand-alone EMS. Follow that up with a proper suspension. After the "driver" mod the next best thing to work on is suspension. It can make or break your launch. But beware, a properly tuned launch suspension will not drive very well on the streets.
I could keep goin on and on but you really need to decide what your final goal is with this car. Otherwise you'll continue to spend more and more money and possibly never finding the end goal to satisfy your taste.
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heres what I would do:
AMS or Bushur - 2.0 long block, 35r (AMS) or 3065 (Buschur), ALKY (will let you run high boost on pump all the time ), fmic + ic piping, TiaL bov, dual fuel pumps, fuel press reg, fuel rail, 880cc or 1000cc injectors, twin disc, shep trans (w/ 4.11 gears), shep transfer case, and a stand alone EMS
all this would equal a track and highway monster, I really dont think the driveability would be all that bad either to be honest...
AMS or Bushur - 2.0 long block, 35r (AMS) or 3065 (Buschur), ALKY (will let you run high boost on pump all the time
), fmic + ic piping, TiaL bov, dual fuel pumps, fuel press reg, fuel rail, 880cc or 1000cc injectors, twin disc, shep trans (w/ 4.11 gears), shep transfer case, and a stand alone EMSall this would equal a track and highway monster, I really dont think the driveability would be all that bad either to be honest...
That set up is the reason i bought an EVO.
Last edited by Tribal; Mar 21, 2007 at 04:14 PM.
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