Camp Lejeune/Jacksonville Evos
Just because AMS did a "comparison" of cams on a FULLY BUILT engine with FULLY BUILT HEAD the kelfords came out on top. You MAY gain 5 hp switching...and that's prob. being generous....for $500-something...no thanks.
I asked earlier but no one said anything...What's peoples thoughts on heat coating our manifolds and hotsides? I did some quick searching and there's TONS of places and different coating options. I don't need any one specific brand name, just a good heat coating. I think I am definitely sending off the hotside/o2 housing and manifold to be done. If the hotside starts to rust it's going to bug the hell outta me so that's the reason to do that, and for the mani and o2...why not. The o2 comes within 1/4" of the AC unit which is prob cooking it internally.
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
haha... ive heard good and bad things about coating the manifolds. I've seen good and bad coatings as well. AMS's even at some point with enough heat begins to chip which sucks. I've also heard that heat coating sometimes will make the steel crack because it doesnt allow the steel to expand the way it should. But, thats only heresay. It definitely looks nice. Look into Jet Hot.
You must be referring to the peak hp. The HKS 272's are the LEAST aggressive 272 cam. Then I can sell the HKS's. I'm already getting a good deal form Maperformance for them anyways. That way I have a reason for putting in the BC springs, BC retainers, and ARP head studs. I still really want a HTA35 but I'm pretty sure I'm sticking with the Red w/ meth though. Red, meth, ported t/b, i/m, e/m, o2 housing, and turbine housing. I should be happy for a while. By then I might be out of the Marine Corps and I'll be going to college. That's when I'll get serious with my engine build.
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swapping the cams out is a waste of money and i can almost guarantee you, if we tuned your car with the HKS in, and then put the kelfords in, the difference would not warrant the money. You could take the money you are spending on cams... be about 300 short for pistons and rods, and build your bottom end.
I'll either go with Swain Coating or Jet Hot. I really hate to cover the manifold, but the heat is def. excessive. And the O2 housing is a must being so close to the ac pump...in my eyes atleast.
I've been still searching for this dang idle prob. I found a guys thread with the exact symptoms as mine. His was from insufficient grounds! Apparently one of the small grounding wires from the engine to the firewall was corroded. As soon as he replaced it with a larger wire, the idle problem was fixed. Since I don't believe it's a vacuum leak anymore/(bc of boost leak testing ok) I'm going to look into that. I trunk mounted the batt and only grounded the batt with 1 wire to the chassis. With the car mostly being aluminum, I'm going to run another wire up to the stock neg batt terminal. Also add 2 more wires in the trunk to chassis ground.
Thanks. Yeah, I installed a remote starter on my moms car...we were having problems with the range. It led back to the grnd not being good. As soon as I changed it it worked as advertised.
Some guy on here posted up logs that looked exactly like mine. His afr's would go crazy...idle would drop then recover. He found a grnd wire...I think the one that goes from the intake mani to the firewall that was corroded and almost cut. I trunk mounted the battery, and bet that 1 grnd to the chassis isnt enough. That can affect EVERYTHING that needs a grnd so thats the next step.
Some guy on here posted up logs that looked exactly like mine. His afr's would go crazy...idle would drop then recover. He found a grnd wire...I think the one that goes from the intake mani to the firewall that was corroded and almost cut. I trunk mounted the battery, and bet that 1 grnd to the chassis isnt enough. That can affect EVERYTHING that needs a grnd so thats the next step.
Hows your project coming along? MBC back to stock? Or did you find a solution for that? It seems every other post on here is about a X with some sort of trans problem, SES light flashing, paint chipping and rusting....Darn "new" cars. :-)
just remind all the evos in NC/SC area for the evo meet in feb28th and please dont forget to sing up.
NC/SC FEB 28th MEET-Indoor kart racing!!!!!!!
NC/SC FEB 28th MEET-Indoor kart racing!!!!!!!
Last edited by dsm25psi; Jan 2, 2009 at 12:27 PM.
swapping the cams out is a waste of money and i can almost guarantee you, if we tuned your car with the HKS in, and then put the kelfords in, the difference would not warrant the money. You could take the money you are spending on cams... be about 300 short for pistons and rods, and build your bottom end.
Anywho, I can't explain how easily my mind changes. Just 30 minutes ago I was dead set on the HTA35, now I'm back to the Red. How much will the new rods and pistons intalled cost? And what rods and pistons do you use? Does the deal include bearings?
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
Ask bobby ! He would be the one doing the build and he will recommend something for what you are asking for. But again... spending money on the cams is pointless. The cams may be a night and day difference to some, If you were going from 272 to 280 or something like that, i could see, but you arent... you are going with the same duration with probably a slightly different lift. Just a waste of money in my book, especially in a car where obviously the mod combo works quite well


