yes truongs car would start but wouldnt idle or run for **** WITH THE stock ecu. had to throw on a mef translator... the head flowed so much air just at idle that the maf couldnt compensate fuel for it....

its not rocket science putting a good set-up together but you have to know that things wont work with others..

i dotn care how it is built a FULLY BUILT CAR IN MY EYES (built bottom, machined head, full valvetrain and some sort on standalone) is NOT A DD... i dont care how it runs..

take carlos' integra for example. b18 stroked over to a 1.9x.. ok so pretty much a 2.0.

ported head with springs retainers. has RIDICULOUS cams where a evo's "big cams" (11mm of lift) is considered alot, i think his cams have about 12.3 mm of lift... pretty much same motor in a skunk 2 drag car just with a 30r on top. no way in hell i would dd that thing.

with a built motor (forged internals) you HAVE to let the motor warm up because of expansion in the block (pistons, rings) if not you get blow by and boom she aint gonna last long. ALOT of factors go into a motor.

if someone told me they wanted power like my car but wanted to constantly beat the crap out of it and be safe i would say just throw in a set of GOOD (arias, JE, BC, whatever) drop in pistons and springs retainers have a good safe tune and have at it.. where people get into trouble is when they want Meth/ a crazy head/ and huge injectors with a big turbo and try to run it on a stock ecu... the stock maf can only calculate SO much air.

 

So your saying it would be more important to have a built bottom end than it would to have a built head if you wanted to have a practically indestructible motor that one can beat the **** out of.

 

Yes... evo's have A VERY good flowing head stock. i myself would not worry about a crazy head (other than springs, retainers to go voer 7800) unless i had something bigger than a 35r more like a 67mm or a 35 with a 1.06 or whatever hotside... if you want to beat on ur car and want it to hold get some rods and pistons and have a good tuner..

just look at all the hondas (yes i said hondas cause a b series motors has one of the best heads ever made) with stock heads making over 600hp. i think i saw a comparrison one time of a stock head honda with a borg warner make something close to 800 with a non machined head

 

I liked the BR pistons and rods. There only about 1400.

Already have the springs and retainers taken car of.

 

This is what I was going to get done to the exhaust manifold that I have coming in soon: https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...products_id=75 . But in the paragraph it says "For best results please combine with our ported and coated 10.5 turbine housing and our OEM ported and coated 02 housing OR our stainless steel fabricated coated 02 housing."

So as usual, I'm confused. Where are the 02 housing and the turbine housing located?

 

Holy crap. I looked/ tried to start taking off the ext mani just to see how hard it would be and I must know, how I take the nuts off that secure the mani to the head. I don't have much tools here so I couldn't really try much. Do I need a wrench? I don't have a 12mm wrench, like I said, we don't have much tools here. What do I need to take it off?

 

Just understand that numbers are dyno dependent. Bob's car is strong, and did well on the dyno at Nat. Speed. But put that same setup on a heartbreaker mustang and he'd see very low 400's. Probably 500 on meth and an aggressive tune, but it would be pushing it... and that is only because the turbo he has is modified. A red i cant imagine seeing the same numbers that bob has. I also will reiterate this again.... there is no reason to spend money on something that you already have. The HKS cams are great. They are already in the car, the car likes them, leave them. The kelfords are not going to yield anything worth paying for them, paying for the install, and then selling the HKS. You will still spend about 200 ~ 400. Get the red, get the meth. Get the ported coated mani... and you will be sitting pretty.

1400 is high when you can buy the same setup Bobby has in his car for about 800 or 900 i bet. Make all the power in the world to meet your goal, and save the money. Also, Bobby can do the install to save you a little more money, not to mention he has a tendency to build 500whp evos


Bob, as for your car.... I was talking with mike yesterday.... it has to be something mechanical causing the issue. I cant tell you anything, because i dont have the car. But maybe you have a leak or something i dont know. Or maybe the FPR will help you out. But, going thru your logs, the injectors are happy, the car is struggling to maintain a set RPM, which tells me air is getting into the car either by the front O2 (could be bad) or just a hose that is off or has a hole in it. Has to be something along those lines. You arent modded enough to need a maf translator for the car to run properly. I wish i had an exact answer for you, but all i have is possibilities at this moment. Just go thru her, check her out. Check around the manifold to see if there is any exhaust gas coming out from anywhere. We should do the fuel setup and then see how she does. Bruce brought my car back to me the other night... she idles like a champ. No bouncing around...stays consistently between 14.5 to 15.0 after she warms up. We are built almost the exact same minus the rail and FPR. Maybe there is a leak. Maybe the wastegate, or something. Who knows.

 

I boost leaked the bish, and it holds. It's possible to be a leak somewhere...How would I go about a vacuum leak test? Special stuff needed? Just like a boost leak test but with some kind of pump that can hold, like a brake bleeder?

I have eyeballed every hose I can possibly see from on top, and under the car. I can't see any that is off or cut or torn. Maybe a pinched hose from the clutch install? It idled rough before, but is even worse now. I'll hit you up again for your FPR setup. I was eyeing AMS's full setup, but I'm not sure how that compares to your setup. I dont' think their price included a rail or anything. And I have never heard of their regulator. Thanks a bunch for the 02. I didn't get it from him yet, but will splice that thing in there soon. results to follow...

 

Holy crap. I looked/ tried to start taking off the ext mani just to see how hard it would be and I must know, how I take the nuts off that secure the mani to the head. I don't have much tools here so I couldn't really try much. Do I need a wrench? I don't have a 12mm wrench, like I said, we don't have much tools here. What do I need to take it off?

 

um, you only need 2 sockets, an extension, and maybe a breaker bar with some pb blaster. The bottom two outter nuts are larger than the rest. And yes, it's a PITA to get to the nuts on the bottom of the mani. It's not that hard, but you def want to soak them with pb blaster for a couple hours...at least.

 

no splicing ... its a stocker

gotta love me

 

You are the fail crew MAN! If it doesn't resolve the prob. I'll get it back to you sometime.

 

What did you say your fpr setup ran? Was that the fpr, rail, and everything? I was looking at the ams fpr setup, but the rail is separate. After xmas I'll be ready to buy that setup. It's next on the list. I'd like to take a trip to failville to grab it, and throw it on and hit up a failville cruise.

 

Hey mike!!!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...e-1-3-new.html

Make you a believer they ARE out there! lol

 

thanks! i think he sold it already i just pm him