Camp Lejeune/Jacksonville Evos
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
dyno day... national speed... 27th of Dec is blocked off 
PM if you are coming
RC or PTE work just fine... i think the RC's will be 650's though... dont think they make a 680, either way, wont matter, they flow the same. But As i was thinking, you may want to go with a 750/780.

PM if you are coming
RC or PTE work just fine... i think the RC's will be 650's though... dont think they make a 680, either way, wont matter, they flow the same. But As i was thinking, you may want to go with a 750/780.
The race head would be nice but I just don't have that kind of time and money to do such a big job like that. If I recall, doesn't the race head cost about 1600. If I do the head why not get a stage 3 short block too, or maybe the 2.3L short block. I still really want a BR race engine so it's never too late to start gathering the parts. I have a good start with the Kelfords and the BC valves, springs, and retainers. Can't I get the stage 3 head and just put the parts I bought in it?
Last edited by ch53avitech; Dec 11, 2008 at 07:14 PM.
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
can you resend them. I got the email, opened it, saw what it was, checked the rest of my mail, tried to come back to it, and it was gone. Im guessing i deleted it. Send it to me and we will take a look at it.
Jason, I'll get them your way today.
Andrew...the thing is, you have to pull your head to replace the valves. By the time you do ALL of that paying for labor, you are going to be up there in $$$. I know it's not gonna cost 1600, but figure 80/hr labor at National Speed....Why are you replacing the valves anyhow? bc of the compression test you did a couple weeks ago?
Andrew...the thing is, you have to pull your head to replace the valves. By the time you do ALL of that paying for labor, you are going to be up there in $$$. I know it's not gonna cost 1600, but figure 80/hr labor at National Speed....Why are you replacing the valves anyhow? bc of the compression test you did a couple weeks ago?
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From: Tallahassee, but currently reside @ Camp LeJeune
i would go with denzo's, i liked the pte's i had, but i like the denzo's more, probably cause the price i got them at though,lol.
i may not be back from Tampa by the 27th, but if I am, I'll at least drive down there for the hang out.
i may not be back from Tampa by the 27th, but if I am, I'll at least drive down there for the hang out.
Evolved Member
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
The race head would be nice but I just don't have that kind of time and money to do such a big job like that. If I recall, doesn't the race head cost about 1600. If I do the head why not get a stage 3 short block too, or maybe the 2.3L short block. I still really want a BR race engine so it's never too late to start gathering the parts. I have a good start with the Kelfords and the BC valves, springs, and retainers. Can't I get the stage 3 head and just put the parts I bought in it?
So, I confirmed the npt adapter, or ANY for that matter DON'T fit the allen plug screw on the oil filter housing. I ran around everywhere and not a single one fits. I guess the only one in the universe is the one from 42draftdesigns...*****
damn it...I took the car out tonight. When cruising the afr's jump all over the place. Usually when cruising they held at 15 flat. Now they bounce from 10's up to 17 then hold at 14 for a little while, then bounce all over again. After pulling into the garage the cel came on again. I truly am beginning to think the front o2 sensor is jacked. I can't really think of any other reasons the afr's jump all over the place.
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iTrader: (37)
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Spec-Ops Motorsports, Fayetteville, NC
can you swap it with someones ? you may need to check all your bolts to make sure everything is tight, and no air is getting in the system. Leak test and exhaust leak test.
I may. It depends on if someone around here has the time. I may just grab a new one and slap it on. If it works, great. If not, I'll need it sometime in the far off future. One thing I can see, when It's bouncing all around, it looses vacuum. Which is normal I guess. I boost leak tested and all is fine. The exhaust back to the catback is v-band and is also super tight.
Something I noticed when I first started the car up with the new setup on was it idled high (normal for a cold start up) but then when the car got warm, like the thermo opened up, it started this terrible idle thing. It almost made a clunk noise. I didn't think anything of it, but the idle prob. has been this way since. Does that sound like any symptoms of something? I wrote it off, but now that its still having the issue?? The car doesn't run hot or cooler than before..
got it man...I may just "try" something. I may set my idle fueling to lean as ****. Like 16 or so...if it'll let me. Just to see if that will lean it out. I need to narrow the potential problem's down. If that indeed leans it out, you think I could go ahead and say it's a fueling issue?


