xRoguex

iTrader: (15)

well on a 75 degree day.. my mas would say 83ish deg.. and my AIT at the manifold would say 83-85.. soo...

ct78155

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Matt

By the way, if you have a good intercooler you won't see but a couple degrees difference from a WOT pull. IF you are seeing a big temp difference it's going to be your intercooler not working efficiently.

I'll go back to the JMS Black Mamba running a FF setup, he only sees 3-5 degrees higher from idle to WOT. This is on a Buschur Racing FMIC, great quality intercooler. I use this car as an example because not everybody has a 750hp car running 10's. This is taking everything to the extreme, and he still only sees 3-5 degrees higher AIT. Don't think there can be much more proof than that.

ct78155

iTrader: (1)

\

If you have a good intercooler you won't see but a couple degrees difference from a WOT pull. IF you are seeing a big temp difference it's going to be your intercooler not working efficiently.

I'll go back to the JMS Black Mamba running a FF setup, he only sees 3-5 degrees higher from idle to WOT. This is on a Buschur Racing FMIC, great quality intercooler. I use this car as an example because not everybody has a 750hp car running 10's. This is taking everything to the extreme, and he still only sees 3-5 degrees higher AIT. Don't think there can be much more proof than that.

pboglio

I logged MAF airfilter temps on my car, I didn't mean intake manifold temps. My airfilter was "rammed" with high pressure ambient air from underneath, and still once the manifold (FP bronze ceramic coated) radiation started kicking at WOT within fractions of a second the airfilter was superheating like a burrito in a microwave. Soon as I got off the throttle, the temps started dropping back down. Its the radiation that is doing it. See where I'm coming from?

EmeryatSTM

iTrader: (79)

I know we are sending some stuff to Carlos for Corys 2g. I'm sure it will work fine.




-Em

ct78155

iTrader: (1)

Again, I just cannot understand why you keep comparing the ceramic coating we use to what FP uses.
If you had a bad experience with the coating FP used, try contacting FP

Babi@Force-Fed

I have what I belive was the first factory evo manifold I port and polished and gasket matched and carlos coated. It was on a car that a customer of our literally beats the **** out of. The customer dropped a valve that destroyed the motor, after pulling it down the ceramic as perfect in the other 3 cyl's, and the one was only screwed up because it ate parts of the pistons and the valve.

I really dont know who pboglio is or what do or do not know from experience or what you may have read somewhere. I dont want to be disrespectful But you have 4 major shops in here attesting to the quality and functionality of the work that carlos does,They have years of experience in both tuning and racing. They have used the products and come to the conclusion that they will continue using carlos products and services.
I havent had any problems with the ceramic chipping off from actual use. I have seen it cut down under hood temps as the op provided information.
The cermaic coating isnt an end all be all for stopping the heat from heating up the engine bay but it helps.

xRoguex

iTrader: (15)

I would be curious to see just how it compares to raps. However - Raps are ugly, and often destructive to the parts they are covering(over time due to rust).

pboglio

ct78155,

MY views are not the owners views, they are mine. Me and the owner have different viewpoints on almost everything, so I am NOT speaking for him. Its done already, so I'll just say what I have to and leave it.

I'm talking about your "Tirado" ceramic coating now, installed and running on an actual EVO IX car, in conditions that I know from experience would test it, if you can call a near freezing fall day testing it. Intake temps as measured at the MAF sensor (i.e. pre-compressor) are not anywhere near ambient as you are claiming just a few posts ago in your customer's tests. Why this is, is not all that surprising since the manifold is not the only thing pumping out heat in the engine compartment, so it is a poor test of a coatings performance. I'd call a +20*F increase over ambient at WOT in 45*F ambient not impressive, none the less. Let me repeat, MAF intake temps being measured here, from the MAF not post intercooler. Your coating on an EVO IX, just in case this isn't being clear enough for everyone. Even with all the help of the stock vented EVO hood, that just isn't what I would expect. As I said earlier, I asked the owner to slap the heatshield back on even before this and I was right to do so.

You are in serious need of doing your own controlled testing and I'm certainly not going to do it for you. I don't know what your technical background is but not doing it is the reason we are having this discussion which is certainly pissing you off. Having someone recommend that you test your own product has got to embarass you into doing something about it, I hope.

All the shipping damage would have been killed dead if you used "Instafoam" or "Instapack" or whatever the trade name is. A final inspection would have caught the bubbling paint problem. The dings and chips wouldn't have happened. EASY EASY stuff to fix, listen to people out in the field. The coating performance, it is the coating YOU speced. I know full well you didn't invent, design, or formulate it. You SPECED it out and it is probably the best you can get your hands on.

The heat transfer physics aren't that mind boggling and when I see that the coating isn't even as thick as a piece of paper, I know what's up. I want as thick as I can get on the outside coating, which is why I always recommended Swaintech.

Epic Motorsports,

You don't know me, I don't know you. What does it matter who I am? You are not talking to a naive EVO owner here. I know a thing or two about engineering, quality control, designing, prototyping, releasing new products to market. I will spell it out for you, "THE COATING WAS BUBBLED AND NOT ADHEREING TO THE MANIFOLD INSIDE RUNNER BEFORE IT WAS INSTALLED".

The parts shipped out "immaculate", no dings, nicks from die grinders on critical areas, NOTHING. 2 of 3 parts came back nicked, dinged, chipped, and bubbled. The shipping damage was cause for most, bad packaging job on the receiving end since the painted surfaces were marred already and not just painted over. This illustrated by accident the lack of adhesion the coating actually has. And I should coat my piston tops with this "Tirado" ceramic coating cause you and 4 other shops told me the quality is there?

That is what makes me laugh, 4 shops are gonna change my perception of reality.

DSM*BOY

iTrader: (2)

Why even bother with this guy ^^

He's a nobody... are we really going to listen to someone who bases horsepower ona estimated calculator? I would expect better from an “engineer”…

I so hard when i read this post of yours over on MAP vs Buschur Mani thread ...


To me its pointless to read your posts on the topic of this ceramic coating..
Seeing as how you've NEVER purchased coating from the seller...
Nor even planning on paying for his services...
And please don’t say, "Iv'e used spray paint from autoparts stores and its the same"

So how can you even try to give a review?... just because you were there when your friend purchased it? (and might i add is very happy with the seller's services AND his coating)

pboglio

I'm done, have fun

ct78155

iTrader: (1)

I'll address all of your points.

1. Taking readings from the MAF is pointless, period.

2. I mentioned the AIT temperatures from the JMS Black Mamba on the intake manifold, never said anything about MAF temperatures.

3. I let the customer know that if there was ANY damage to the parts upon arrival, the box had insurance and FedEx would cover all damage. We did not just start doing this yesterday so we know a thing or 2 about packaging and claims with FedEx.

4. You recommend SwainTech, good for you. This is a free country you are free to choose whatever company you want. Again, nobody is holding a gun to your head to go with our coatings.

5. The last and final point.

According to you, this is how you came to your "conclusion" that our ceramic does not "work":

Quote:

What I have a problem with is THIN painted or plate ceramic coatings in GENERAL. The fact that in REAL testing, I mean datalogged intake testing I can at WILL show a run starting at 4000 rpms in 3rd gear that would be at 80*F ambient and go WOT to 7000 rpms the intake temps would SKYROCKET to +100*F by the end of 7000 rpms. That is on the ceramic coating FP used on the race manifolds for the DSM, the "Jet Hot type" coating the used. Shockingly I can hold intake temps DEAD stable during WOT pulls with the stock heatshielding in place.

Your coating I PERSONALLY put my HAND on the manifold after a 5 minute warmup, no problem. Nothing to do with reality either, IR gun or not, for reason I explained. ENTIRELY different story after I PURPOSELY told the owner to BEAT on the car to pump heat into the manifold cause I KNEW what I was looking for. The stock EVO hood vent is covering ALOT of sins here.

I asked both Emery from STM, and David Buschur from Buschur Racing about reading temps from the MAF. Emery holds the stock block record on his evo, and Mr Buschur doesn't even need an introduction.

This is what they had to say:

Emery @ STM:
"Temp readings at the maf are impossible to even consider repeatable. The maf sits right behind the radiator."

David Buschur:
"I don't pay attention to MAF temps very often. The MAF is right in front of the radiator/engine fan so I expect them to rise typically.

David"

Reading temperatures from the MAF is pointless, so if this is where you acquired your "data" it's safe to say it's useless in showing our ceramic increases temperatures like you are suggesting.

I'm done also, have fun

xRoguex

iTrader: (15)

I know I called him out on it. Oh well.. Fail..




Do your self a favor and GTF outta my thread.