YEah I pieced mine together also, but the TD05HRA-16G6-9.8t did have all the parts, including the actuator, I swapped the 10.5t housing onto it that I got from FP, I also fit everything up on my bench since the engine that will be going in the car is being built now, but I had it assembled on a stand at the time to make sure I had everything I needed.. But I've done this once before so I was already expecting to need particular parts. (I always buy new hardware anyway if its not already included)

 

Thats cool man, its food for thought to say the least.

It's all about having fun, swapping parts out on your car, and having even more fun.

 

I got mine from Dyno4mance. They had one available due to some customer overstock resulting from the Vishnu dyno day two weeks ago. They usually refer customers straight to FP. Even for the extra $35 bucks at Mitsubishi today, I still came out a few bucks ahead and they shipped it super fast and were very nice to deal with.

 

Smog, now I am wishing that your kit did come with all the necessary hardware. That's the only thing that kept us from finishing the job. Other than that, it would probably be said and done in 5 to 6 hours time. Not bad for a first time turbo swap on the Evo.

Also, for the guys that want a "how to" with pictures, I guess Smog and I can snap some pictures as we put everything back together. This would probably be the same as us taking it apart. At least now we will have a little bit more patience because we know exactly what to do to throw the car back together.

POSTED BY GNULOOKS UNDER SMOGRUNNER'S ACCOUNT.
Smog you forgot to log out...

 

OK, question: What, if any threadlocker should I use when I put the new studs and bolts back in?

2. How much do new O2 sensors cost? Mine is fine, but it sure has a lot of lead all over it.

 

No, No...antiseize is what you need to use.

 

Smog,

You do not need threadocker, you need antiseize for the studs.

 

I usually use lock wire so I don't lose parts..

Originally I suggested Loctite, but after thinking about it, you might want to use some sort of antiseize so you can service this stuff..

 

I'd normally put high temperature (nickel) anti-sieze on all the threads when working around the turbo. All the bolts that go into the turbine housing self lock themselves from the extreme heat cycles anyway.

 

Just out of curiosity what is the most boost you can run on the 10.5CM housing and have it stay stable?

 

Around the same as stock, the difference is you won't taper as much at the extremes that you might get with the smaller turbine housing at higher RPM..

In my case, I can't answer this with too much authority since the additional modifications I had made increased the overall air volume into the engine, therefore the same boost levels resulted in more air into the engine anyway..

 

BTW, don't even bother using the regular anti-sieze from your local auto parts store. They don't work to very high temperatures. I've used that stuff in the past on my DSMs, and I still managed to snap bolts off on my turbine housing. The nickel stuff is industrial grade and is good to 2600F. You can get it from Grainger, McMaster Carr, Airgas, etc.. RRE also carries it.

 

Thanks to everyone for responding. I'll use anti-seize. It should also help to more accurately torque the bolts, right?

Also, I almost went for the full turbo-kit upgrade (stage 3 from Vishnu, etc) but I want to play with suspension and learn to drive around corners a little more first. I really wish this turbo had just a teanie bit bigger compressor, but oh well. It is so close to stock that it really doesn't make me hope for big gains, but at least SOME butt dyno results would be acceptable. I want the stock 02 housing, ex. manifold for simple durability and "stockness." The big turbo kit is still in cards, just not in my next hand...

 

I'm sure there will be variations of stock evo turbos as the secondary market starts seeing it as a possible option for swaps...

 

We'll see what ur pain the a$$ mod will get u soon...R u gonna retune smoggie??...


Mark