I did two runs with the K&N and two run w/o the K&N. I even re-set the ECU by disconnecting the battery. What else do you want?

Now that I have my Xede up and running again. I will do a re-test, provided you pay me $60 if your hypothesis is wrong. I will pay you $60 if your hypothesis is correct.

I will do two runs with the K&N and two runs with the stock filter at the same place and similar time. If the AFR stays above 12:1 in both tests between 4500-7000rpm, then you will pay me $60. DEAL??? If you are so sure of what you are saying, then you would take the challenge.

 

All I know is, I had two drop in filters before, each one through the maf readings off and Shiv had a difficult time tuning it.

 

obi-shiv-kanobe -- you can helps us!

I didn't get around to any data-logging last night. I'll try to get some tonight -- sorry guys...

 

heya shiv nice you join this huge thread

iam getting 12.0-12.5 on 3erd gear pulls on my aem uego wideband the runs i start them at 2500rpm and i hit full throttle all the way to redline 76000rpms.
also i have a question that i posted before lets say i start from 2nd gear and i use full throttle all the way to redline i then shift to 3erd gear and the rpms fall at 6000rpms when i see afr #'s they are 11.0-11.2 this is different then the first run i mention above where i start from a roll at 2500rpms in 3erd gear i see by 6000rpms to redline afr's between 12.0-12.5 its more then a point but i dont understand how we have to look at our afr's as the first pull or as the sencond pull and why does the afr#' vary??
this is done on the same road same time same temp ect... the only diff is in what gear you start to accelerate!
thanks shiv

 

i also did datalogging with both types of filters k&n and stock and i had the same results there is no varience in afrs maybe something small but not drastic as 0.5 points!
maybe what we are all confuse at is how we are looking at our afr#'s nj and jeff please try your car as i say do a datalogg starting in 2ndgear and go all the way to reline then shift to 3erd gear and go all the way to redline and then stop the log and you will see the difference that iam talking about please do it

 

Try this:

In 4th gear, try riding your brakes so that you can cold 5500rpm at full throttle. Just for a couple of sec. That's all you will need to get a stable AFR reading. The problem with reading AFR during acceleration runs is that there is a time lag. This would rule out that effect. On the dyno is slow the ramp rate down a whole bunch when I want an accurate picture of what AFR is doing.

-shiv

 

thanks shiv ill try this and see what happens

 

I really do not have the open road to do a 2nd gear WOT, followed by a 3rd gear WOT. I will either get into an accident or get a ticket. I live in an urban area. My test is conducted on the freeway on ramp on my way to work. The on ramp is about 30% incline and then midway through the run flattens out which gives it some load, which is what Shiv is asking for. I start in 3rd gear at 2500-2700 rpm and go WOT. By the end of the ramp (if there is no traffic ahead of me), I am at 7300-7400 rpm. I shift to neutral or fifth gear, slow down and merge onto the freeway. I turn off the logging devices and cruise at 65-70 mph to work.

I do this M-T-W-TH at around 9:10 AM at the same place. This way I am somewhat certain that I get similar weather and location. I fill gas from the same gas station mixing 3.5 gallons of 100 octane and 9.xx gallons of 91 octane. This mix is optimal for the EVO. I love it. I will never use 91 octane again unless I have no choice.

I just did a log on my way to work with the Xede installed and the green light on. Dustin was great in fixing the Xede and getting it back to me in less than a week He also installed a knock buffer and I am using it to log knock. I know it is not a perfect method, but I want to try it and see what happens.

 

Please do a log and tell us your results. The more data we have the better off we are. What do you log with?

 

My current maps are tuned for my car. I wont go back to log an overly lean map just to show that its overly lean.

I understand the car should be 12.0:1 AFR at peak torque and after a TON of research I agree this is safe. My problem was even after 4k RPM I was nearly 12:1 and I was seeing knock on the dyno. Once I got my AFR back to 11:1 I saw no knock and had a very strong graph. I think the timing retard on the standard maps are plenty good but people need to read their true AFR not only to be safe but to get the best performance. When the stock ECU pulls timing it can easily rob you of 20HP.

 

Damn good question -- I was going to figure that out tonight. heh! I was going to use the Xede and follow the Xede tuning guide -- highlight the entire map and do a pull and then watch the trace.

I know that the Xede does have high speed data logging but I have never used it so I'm not familiar with it. If all else fails -- I'll just install the Innovate wideband software and log that way ..at least to get the AFR's.

 

Just to clarify. I am using a modified Shiv map. I have increased the fuel by 4% and last time I tested the AFR was around 11.4-11.5:1 on 93 octane gas. Then the Xede got the heat bug and I had to send it to get it fixed. I want to continue fine tuning the AFR on this map and pull the timing from 6500-7300 to around 20-21*. The last timing logs with this map I noticed timing hitting 22-23*. I want to change that.

Any ideas on the % pull that I have to do to hit that target?

 

i havent have time to do what shiv told us to do.
but someone in here please do a log from 2nd gear to 3erd gear pull and you will see the difference in the afrs # as to just a 3erd gear pull!

 

This is the latest and best log of the Shiv map that I am modifying. This is the map that I add 4% fuel to. The AFR is almost dead nuts at 11.2-11.3:1 all across the AFR curve. The boost peaked at 22.71 psi in this humidity at 9:10 AM. I have not had such a peak in the AM during summer days. and then boost tapers to 18.67 psi by 7400 rpm.

I also logged knock with the knock buffer for the first time. Knock was around 1 volt by 7K and less than 1 volt throughout. From what I read anything less than 2 volts is considered good.



The timing was also next to perfect. only 1* fluctuation in timing in two places of the log. The only thing I did not like about the timing is that it hits 23-24* in the 7-7.4K range. I need to work on changing that.

RPM, Timing
2613.0, 24.0
2645.0, 22.0
2695.0, 21.0
2727.0, 21.0
2777.0, 21.0
2832.0, 17.0
2934.0, 12.0
3008.0, 10.0
3105.0, 7.0
3230.0, 7.0
3375.0, 4.0
3500.0, 2.0
3660.0, 1.0
3875.0, 2.0
4031.0, 4.0
4172.0, 5.0
4352.0, 6.0
4496.0, 5.0
4684.0, 6.0
4836.0, 6.0
5016.0, 7.0
5168.0, 8.0
5340.0, 7.0
5477.0, 8.0
5648.0, 9.0
5801.0, 11.0
5953.0, 12.0
6086.0, 13.0
6266.0, 14.0
6406.0, 15.0
6551.0, 17.0
6680.0, 19.0
6832.0, 21.0
6965.0, 21.0
7109.0, 23.0
7246.0, 23.0
7391.0, 24.0
7492.0, 24.0

 

nj you are seeing 23 24* cause you are using a mix of 100oct if you use only 91oct on your tank you will see that the tming goes down on its own