Does it have a BMW on the bottle?
I pay 3.40 per quart from my local BMW dealer, no discounts or anything.

Yes please do ask your friend. I calling my local dealer to ask.

Eric

 

The Castrol RS you are talking about is likely Castrol RS Racing Syntec 10W60 that is a synthetic race oil. I have not seen this in North America but it's quite popular in Europe, albeit expensive.

 

Just talked to Paul Miller BMW in NJ.

5w/30 RS 3.90qt

10w/60 RS 8.50qt

YES FOUND RS 10w/60!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Well I did my 8400 mile late break in with dino oil. I changed it to dino at 8400. Had my pit pass service done at 9100 miles so only 700 miles on dino. In that 700 miles I took it to the twistiest road around here (Red Rock) loop. I ran the snot out of it with alot of shifting and low load high rpm runs through Red Rock. I also took it out toward Pahrump NV and did a few 165mph+ runs. So we'll see now if it helped any with oil consumption even if it was done this late. I almost took out the synthetic M1 initially and was going to break it in on dino but to many people were saying it might not be good for the turbo and that Mit knew what they were doing. Oh well car runs good anyway.

Why is that RS 10-60 so good? I plan on running Amsoil Series 2000 when my pit pass runs out.

Take care
mojo

 

Do EVO's have Moly or Carbon rings?

Break-in on carbon rings(usually used in race engines which will be torn down in 500 miles give or take) is much quicker and produces a better seal sooner than Moly rings which are much harder and take longer to seat... I made it through pg. 7 and got tired of reading the same regurgitated crap over and over again so excuse me if someone has allready brought this up in a previous post.

TG

 

So was there a point where the defined break-in is done and the switch to dino will do no further good?

> break in is really done at the factory
> 5 miles - better do it immediately when brand new new
> 50 miles - once some yahoo does an enthusiastic test drive you're done
> 500 miles - parts are just getting friendly
> 5000 miles - a layer of dino will be a good idea even after initial break-in

 

So did I screw up my car, picked it up in Spokane, WA then drove 600 miles home. I did not take the freeway I took the highway through the mountains. Hit some fog and rain so there was a lot of variation in speed, gear, load, etc. Did not really have a chance to chage the oil though after picking the car up.

 

Wow. I have 300 miles on mine and now I'm feaked out to leave the Mobile1 in and I'm freaked out to put in regular oil for the first few thousand miles. Thanks guys!

 

how are you supposed to break-in with dinojuice when you have to drive all that way home from the dealership?

 

I towed mine home

 

my 2 cents:

I think people are puttting far too much emphasis on this whole topic.

the use of synthetic oils, as a general rule means things wear less. key word - LESS.

There is still wear taking place (break in, whatever).

starting out with an oil that increases friction (relative to synthetic) just speeds up what is going to happen anyway, and it's commonly understood that high mileage engines usually make the most power just before they blow up; the bearings have loosened up quite a bit and the cylinders have been polished a billion times by the passing piston and rings, making the seal very efficient.

they eventually start burning oil for many possible reasons, including the overall wear amount causing the cylinder to be out of round.

the notion that rings can cause no wear after this special window opportunity (that guy's website is vastly overstating a long list of subjective slants and folklore) would mean that rings and cylinders would never wear out.

In other words, using the dino oil (is that a synonym for non-detergent?) just speeds up what is going to happen anyway, regardless of what oil you use. in my opinion, sticking with the mobil one is just going to slow down your rings taking a full seat and delivering the maximum output, but it will eventually happen.

the edges of rings dont lose that much bite over time. if they did they wouldn't continue to work. i say drive it hard regardless of the oil, UNLESS you have oil consumtion/contamination issues that warrant a speeding up of the ring sealing process.

 

That's an interesting perspective; that Evos broken in on dino oil perform better because the oil is effectively aging them faster, to the point in their lifespan where they're making better power than when brand new ...

 

Aging them better

motors broken in on synthetic are like a fine wine...

Seriously, this is not correct. You are FAR better off breaking it in with dino than running synthetic and risking PERMANENT bearing damage due to absurd hydrocarbon levels.

 

So the use of synthetic oil causes "PERMANENT bearing damage due to absurd hydrocarbon levels"? That's a news to me for sure.... I wonder why would insist that the EVO owners use dangerous **** like that in the cars? Maybe they want our engines to fail?

 

No, synthetic oil doesn't cause it, blow by does. Unfortunately, running synthetic on break in will increase your chances of developing oil consumption issues, a sign of blow by. Also, I am in no way saying "synthetic oil causes this or that", I'm saying it increases the odds of it occurring. As for mitsu putting it in our motors, they are probably well aware of the risks associated with filling our cars up with mobile 1. Why do you think they tell you consuming a quart every 1k is normal? They simply chose to cater to us "fat dumb Americans", who are incapable of changing the oil at proper intervals, or allowing a proper cool down.