Break-in and car to car variation due to gas in oil
Originally posted by DSMBRETT
Interesting poll at this link:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1
Hmmm.... seems like the non/sythnetic oil guys don't smell gas in their oil? Coincidence?
Interesting poll at this link:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1
Hmmm.... seems like the non/sythnetic oil guys don't smell gas in their oil? Coincidence?
Originally posted by shiv@vishnu
But considering that there is evidence of MMC using out-of-spec components for US bound cars, I only place so much weight in what they say.
But considering that there is evidence of MMC using out-of-spec components for US bound cars, I only place so much weight in what they say.
There is only so much I can say on this subject without getting in trouble so I'll shut up now.
Pssst.... PM me the information... that way you won't get in trouble.
Let me know if I have this incorrect but it sounds like it's the slug deposit from the mineral oil that seals everything tight. So, using mineral oil for one oil change should work no matter if it's done at 0 miles or 10k. Would that be a correct statement?
Originally posted by AbusiveWombat
Let me know if I have this incorrect but it sounds like it's the slug deposit from the mineral oil that seals everything tight. So, using mineral oil for one oil change should work no matter if it's done at 0 miles or 10k. Would that be a correct statement?
Let me know if I have this incorrect but it sounds like it's the slug deposit from the mineral oil that seals everything tight. So, using mineral oil for one oil change should work no matter if it's done at 0 miles or 10k. Would that be a correct statement?
Originally posted by shiv@vishnu
...But considering that there is evidence of MMC using out-of-spec components for US bound cars, I only place so much weight in what they say... There is only so much I can say on this subject without getting in trouble so I'll shut up now.
Shiv
...But considering that there is evidence of MMC using out-of-spec components for US bound cars, I only place so much weight in what they say... There is only so much I can say on this subject without getting in trouble so I'll shut up now.
Shiv
Shiv, I am not going to disagree with you, you know your stuff - although I will make an observation that there are far too many variables involved to isolate HP variability being due to dyno vs synthetic break-in. One of a number of variables, maybe... With all the variables and all the cause and effect issues, there is no right or wrong answer.
You also have to agree that use of dyno oil, especially in high rev high temp engines, will lead to sludge formation which will definitely reduce the longevity of an engine. Remember, it is the dyno oil breakdown sludge that is sealing your rings, etc... making it better performing according to the extensive info you have presented.
Originally posted by MP5
Unfortunately like so many other serious polls here it is going to be skewed with people that for the bitterness of hell know they smell gas and instead of just accepting the fact they lie to theirself as if to convince themselves its not really there. You see this alot around car forums with placebo mods and justifying of purchases and inability to be open minded sad sad folks
Unfortunately like so many other serious polls here it is going to be skewed with people that for the bitterness of hell know they smell gas and instead of just accepting the fact they lie to theirself as if to convince themselves its not really there. You see this alot around car forums with placebo mods and justifying of purchases and inability to be open minded sad sad folks
More fuel for the fire: I broke my car in like it says in the manual (using the factory synthetic) and the Vishnu gang did the HC test on my car and the numbers that came back were much lower than some of the other EVOs they tested. In addition, after Shiv tuned my car with Stage 0, my final numbers i think were above average.
Bryan
(Vishnu gang, let me know if I am wrong on any of the above)
Bryan
(Vishnu gang, let me know if I am wrong on any of the above)
Last edited by SouthernCrane; Dec 2, 2003 at 12:45 PM.
Thank you so there is hope for the 90% of us EVO owners who broke in w/ synthetic
btw, how many miles did you have on your car when they did the HC test? I trying to determine if more miles on synthetic will help sealing.
btw, how many miles did you have on your car when they did the HC test? I trying to determine if more miles on synthetic will help sealing.
Originally posted by SouthernCrane
More fuel for the fire: I broke my car in like it says in the manual (using the factory synthetic) and the Vishnu gang did the HC test on my car and the numbers that came back were much lower than some of the other EVOs they tested. In addition, after Shiv tuned my car with Stage 0, my final numbers i think were above average.
Bryan
(Vishnu gang, let me know if I am wrong on any of the above)
More fuel for the fire: I broke my car in like it says in the manual (using the factory synthetic) and the Vishnu gang did the HC test on my car and the numbers that came back were much lower than some of the other EVOs they tested. In addition, after Shiv tuned my car with Stage 0, my final numbers i think were above average.
Bryan
(Vishnu gang, let me know if I am wrong on any of the above)
Originally posted by shiv@vishnu
Mitsubishi (and other manufacturers) use synthetic oil mainly for emission purposes. With synthetic oil (which remains nice and thin under all reasonable conditions), engines start quicker and smoother when cold (where most tailpipe emissions are registered). With non-synthetic, a cold engine would start off rougher and stumble a bit before settling to a nice stable idle. Long gone on are the days when cars can start up with a super rich and fast 2000rpm idle until coolant temps reach 60C. This are a lot tougher these days with EPA requirements becoming increasingly strict. This is first priority for manufacturers because failing to meet these requirements would mean not being allowed to sell the car in the US. How much power it makes over the course of the next 100k miles is of little importance since it is quite safe to say that the vast minority of people would ever dyno test their cars and report unsatisifactory results to the manufacturer.
This comes from a reliable source.
Shiv
Mitsubishi (and other manufacturers) use synthetic oil mainly for emission purposes. With synthetic oil (which remains nice and thin under all reasonable conditions), engines start quicker and smoother when cold (where most tailpipe emissions are registered). With non-synthetic, a cold engine would start off rougher and stumble a bit before settling to a nice stable idle. Long gone on are the days when cars can start up with a super rich and fast 2000rpm idle until coolant temps reach 60C. This are a lot tougher these days with EPA requirements becoming increasingly strict. This is first priority for manufacturers because failing to meet these requirements would mean not being allowed to sell the car in the US. How much power it makes over the course of the next 100k miles is of little importance since it is quite safe to say that the vast minority of people would ever dyno test their cars and report unsatisifactory results to the manufacturer.
This comes from a reliable source.
Shiv
No disrespect but I don't see what oil has to do with cold start emissions and stumbling when cold. Idle speeds are during warm up is based on coolant temps and it slowly drops as coolant temps increase. Oil temps are at operational temps long before coolant temps are. Running super rich at cold idle is for warming up the cats quickly and quickly getting the car to operational temperatures. If your car is stumbling when cold, syns or dino, you've got another problem.
Originally posted by SouthernCrane
Brett I think it was around 800 when you guys were seeing as high as 3000......but i could be totally off.
Brett I think it was around 800 when you guys were seeing as high as 3000......but i could be totally off.
Synthetic is thinner and thus creates less resistance making the engine turn over more easily thus necessitating less power to turn over the rotating assembly. This reduces the need for excessive fuel enrichment to keep the engine running smoothly when cold, thus cleaning up emissions during cold start. The enrichment needed to keep a cold engine running smoothly when the oil is cold is way beyond what the cat needs to light up.
The smooth running idle on high performance engines is very difficult to do with current emissions legislation. This gets worse if you have individual thottles for each cylinder and that's the reason why BMW M-cars have such crappy cold idle.
The smooth running idle on high performance engines is very difficult to do with current emissions legislation. This gets worse if you have individual thottles for each cylinder and that's the reason why BMW M-cars have such crappy cold idle.
Originally posted by mayhem
Shiv,
No disrespect but I don't see what oil has to do with cold start emissions and stumbling when cold. Idle speeds are during warm up is based on coolant temps and it slowly drops as coolant temps increase. Oil temps are at operational temps long before coolant temps are. Running super rich at cold idle is for warming up the cats quickly and quickly getting the car to operational temperatures. If your car is stumbling when cold, syns or dino, you've got another problem.
Shiv,
No disrespect but I don't see what oil has to do with cold start emissions and stumbling when cold. Idle speeds are during warm up is based on coolant temps and it slowly drops as coolant temps increase. Oil temps are at operational temps long before coolant temps are. Running super rich at cold idle is for warming up the cats quickly and quickly getting the car to operational temperatures. If your car is stumbling when cold, syns or dino, you've got another problem.



