If your oil smells like gas it is usually due to a rich running condition. Of coarse an Evo running rich will make less hp than an Evo that is running a little leaner from the factory. It seems that even the "weak" Evos are brought up to the hp of the strong Evos when a reflash is done tweaking the a/f ratio and timing. I think break-in procedure, not type of oil used in break-in, has a little effect on hp, but it is marginal. I have noticed more hp produced from cars that receive a hard break-in.

 

These cars are brokin in completly from the MFR dont worry.

 

Bawahaaaaa

 

They are also not inerested in longterm durabilty either. Not everything done for race cars transfer to street cars.

 

No other market cars start with dino oil then at 4500 mile go to semi-synth. The next change is to a good synth like castrol formula RS/TSW ( the new M3 oil).

erik

 

I know they used to take the NSX and run it top speed to test it and that caused problems so now it comes with a break in oil that helps the motor and they say do not change it for about 4000 miles.

 

Yes indeed. And as you mentioned before, another reason synthetic is used from the start in the EVO is for the turbo. It is reasonable to expect most EVO owners to not give the turbo the proper cool down it requires after a hard run. Since successive hot shut-offs will cause bearing coking and the resultant turbo failure (which is easy to diagnose and expensive for a manufacturer to fix under warranty), Mitsubishi went with the a synthetic oil to greatly reduce the likelihood of this happening.

5Star- No one at our shop is forcing people to swap out their synthetic oil for dyno oil during break-in. It's simply a safe suggestion based upon what we've seen on the dyno and what we've talked about with reputable engine builders- both OE and aftermarket. If you want to say otherwise, fine. It's a free world.

My 2c,
Shiv

 

I would like to say That I did the brake in with regular oil for the first 2000 miles. I also make 241whp stock and also made good numbers after tuning and moding. A little stronger then other cars that I have seen. I'm Very pleased with the results. (I have not seen a drop of oil missing)

I do understand why went with Synthetic and most eng builders that I know do brake in a road motor with regular oil. There is no harm in runing a motor in with regular oil.

Do you need to do this? Yes you should but no one is twisting your arm by any means.

I run full synthetic now and I feel the car is faster with it then with dyno oil.

My Very Best
Eric

 

I switched to dino at 500 miles after talking to Brett and wished I had done it sooner. My oil did smell like gas but now with 5K miles there is only a subtle hint. I still wish I wasnt stupid enough to believe that Mitsu knew what the were doing in the first place and not just trying to cheat emmissions and the bedfellow deal with mobil so that they could be among the elite few supercars that come with mobil from the factory in the full page ads in all major mags All at the expense of us smuck consumers

 

Wow, I put down 239.9 and you did 241. Pretty damn close if you ask me. I did dyno for about 3500 miles and 1 track day, my car also drinks 0 oil. Maybe Shiv is not that dumb

 

241whp 248wtq 98degree heat and 100% humity 6/15/2003 at BM tranny. On a colder day I would have made a bit more and I was on dyno oil. 1,230 miles on the car. With some good snythetic I would have piked up about 5 wheel hp and on a colder day much more.

Dynoject 93oct.

BONE STOCK!!!

 

"Thank you for contacting Mobil.
Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining compared to the engines of 10 and 20 years ago. The old concept of "engine break-in" involved two primary elements:

Removing any metal flashing (called swarf) or abrasive material
Allowing valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines do not require these break-in periods. In fact, Mobil 1 has shown excellent control of oil consumption in the industry standard ASTM
Sequence III E test, which uses a completely rebuilt engine for each new test run. This includes freshly honed cylinders, new pistons, and new rings (compression and oil control). The engine is exposed to only the test oil after rebuild. The outstanding oil consumption control of Mobil 1 in this test demonstrates that the old "seating" issue is not of concern in well machined engines. And don't forget that Mobil 1 is used as initial fill on Corvette and Porsche engines.
However, if the engine rebuilder is using older machining equipment or lower quality components, it can leave you with an engine containing swarf or abrasive material inside the engine. In this situation, you would be best served by using a short drain interval on your initial oil fill. Mobil 1 will still work in this situation, but it would be less expensive to use a conventional oil for this first, short duration fill.

If you have any additional questions, you may contact us at our E-mail address: lubes@ffx.mobil.com or by phone at 1-800-ASKMOBIL."

 

I might be dumb but I get from that "all is good drink more ovaltine!"
I still had gas in my oil no question about that.

 

Ok great post. Even Mobil 1 said it would be wiser to use conventional oil if the building tolerances are off.

GUESS what guys??? We are seeing as much as 20 to 25 whp differences between stock cars. Witch means the Tolerances are off. Also many people have posted (Darkhorse) block tolerances and tyranny tolerances (Shepard) found during brake down.

It's just cheap insures to run dyno oil for the first few thousand miles.

Come on people is it so hard to believe that build process has flaws.

What make Vishnu such a awsome Tuning house is that they figure out the flaws first then then address them to better tune the cars.

Example
Miata HP ratings were off
Stock STI's knocking and why
EVO boost control, EVO brake in with conventional oil.

My Very Best
Eric

 

As well as wrxs PTFB issues/ CL-->OL transition issues/ Factory precat uppipe raises EGTs and kills spool

EVOs not putting out what expected- increased DL losses and higher octane gas having major effects on power outputs/ Proper recal of factory knock sensor for higher output, nosier cars.

Ah in the very best of hands