Break-in and car to car variation due to gas in oil
i think people are just upset at the thought that they "might" not have broken in their car "properly". whether it be using mineral oil or synthetic, driving it hard or not. I for one am bothered that i didn't break my car in correctly. I had synthetic from the start and drove lightly till 600 mi. i don't feel i am lacking in power. but i have never been on a dyno.
oh well...i love my evo either way
oh well...i love my evo either way
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Originally posted by 5StarSuzuki
"Mobil 1. NO problem breaking engines in on synthetic from what I can tell. One thing you have to remember is when we build a race engine we don't have ANY break in. The engine goes in the car, we start it, double check for leaks and such and strap it to the dyno. The next time it starts it goes to 9500 rpm and well over 30 psi of boost. We use Amsoil synthetic in the cars. I have NEVER seen any adverse effect of running synthetic oils in the car and breaking them in just like this. Unless something goes wrong in the tuning or the other million things that can happen, the bearings, rings and cylinder walls always look top notch when the engines are torn down." - David Buschur
"Mobil 1. NO problem breaking engines in on synthetic from what I can tell. One thing you have to remember is when we build a race engine we don't have ANY break in. The engine goes in the car, we start it, double check for leaks and such and strap it to the dyno. The next time it starts it goes to 9500 rpm and well over 30 psi of boost. We use Amsoil synthetic in the cars. I have NEVER seen any adverse effect of running synthetic oils in the car and breaking them in just like this. Unless something goes wrong in the tuning or the other million things that can happen, the bearings, rings and cylinder walls always look top notch when the engines are torn down." - David Buschur
The slow break-in should prolly be followed for the rest of us.
The kind of oil in which to use is still the question. And how late is too late...
Originally posted by d3wu
at 1200 miles, im going to get a oil change. i had stock synthetic. i figured im def too late. should stick to synthetic right?
at 1200 miles, im going to get a oil change. i had stock synthetic. i figured im def too late. should stick to synthetic right?
Eric
Originally posted by Eric Lyublinsky
Thank you sir.
How about I give you my password and you can go ahead and edit everything for me.
With love brother!
Thank you sir.
How about I give you my password and you can go ahead and edit everything for me.
With love brother!
Id be happy to! Due to all the warnings I have I cant use all the French I learned or Ill get booted. Id be nice to kave you user name take a few warnings for me I feel like Im going to explode 
Originally posted by MP5
Id be happy to! Due to all the warnings I have I cant use all the French I learned or Ill get booted. Id be nice to kave you user name take a few warnings for me I feel like Im going to explode
Id be happy to! Due to all the warnings I have I cant use all the French I learned or Ill get booted. Id be nice to kave you user name take a few warnings for me I feel like Im going to explode
Got 10k on mine now. Broken in with Mobile 1. Stock base line dyno testing measured 240 HP/251 TQ. I could have probably acheived 250HP/261TQ stock baselline if I had used dino oil for break in.
Should I sell it and start over with dino oil breakin this time?
Should I sell it and start over with dino oil breakin this time?
Just changed my oil prior to reading the post. I did not notice anything unusual about the drain oil, however I didn't stick my nose in it specifically searching out the aroma of gas. I'll be more vigilant next time.
Wouldn't a compression leak down test reveal any seal problems?
Wouldn't a compression leak down test reveal any seal problems?
In Timeout
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
From: Penn State University
wow.
Unless someone has a master degree in mechanical engineering with specialties in combustion engines, your pissing up a rope. (The people at Mitsubishi, General Motors, DaimlerChrysler and Porsche who make these "silly" & "stupid" rules are engineers.)
And frankly, if they say its good enough...its good enough for me. And then when David Buschur says its ok, it definetly makes me say, "its the only way to go." Because frankly, I don't assemble race engines or want to...I let that to the people who know what there talking about. And to make the assertion that somehow purchasing a Stage 3 engine from Buschur or any other engine builder requires it to be broken down all the time is ridiculous.
"This is great advice if your building a race car engine but I would hazard to guess that most evo owners will NOT be breaking down their engines after a couple weekend auto-x events."
So if someone on this board has a Master's degree in Mechanical Engineering says and explains the reasoning for traditional oil... then ok! Or if someone could explain how many engines they have built from the ground up that hold over 600whp everytime...then ok also. But otherwise I think I'll stick with the experts.
BTW: The only way to test your theory would be to...
Assemble 10 engines with identical materials...
Make sure they were assembled in the same enviroment...
Make sure they were assembled to the same tolerances...
Then place all ten engines on laboratory dyno's on...
The same day, and time...
Have 5 engines filled with conventional oil... (or any other type)
Have 5 engines filled with synthetic oil...
Then have the engines run...
Have 5 Synthetic & 5 Conventional do an identical break-in...
1000 miles with varying engine speeds not exceeding 4k rpm...
Then go another 1000 miles at regular speeds...
(controlled on a dyno)
Change out your oil...
Refill both with synthetic oil...
Place both engines on the dyno again...
Do 2000 miles at regular speeds...
Change oil...
Do another 2000 miles at regular speeds...
(all done simulatanously side by side)
Then run engines on Dyno and measure horsepower...
BTW: Most manufacturer engineering departments don't just guess which type of oil to use. They do laboratory testing.
Unless someone has a master degree in mechanical engineering with specialties in combustion engines, your pissing up a rope. (The people at Mitsubishi, General Motors, DaimlerChrysler and Porsche who make these "silly" & "stupid" rules are engineers.)
And frankly, if they say its good enough...its good enough for me. And then when David Buschur says its ok, it definetly makes me say, "its the only way to go." Because frankly, I don't assemble race engines or want to...I let that to the people who know what there talking about. And to make the assertion that somehow purchasing a Stage 3 engine from Buschur or any other engine builder requires it to be broken down all the time is ridiculous.
"This is great advice if your building a race car engine but I would hazard to guess that most evo owners will NOT be breaking down their engines after a couple weekend auto-x events."
So if someone on this board has a Master's degree in Mechanical Engineering says and explains the reasoning for traditional oil... then ok! Or if someone could explain how many engines they have built from the ground up that hold over 600whp everytime...then ok also. But otherwise I think I'll stick with the experts.
BTW: The only way to test your theory would be to...
Assemble 10 engines with identical materials...
Make sure they were assembled in the same enviroment...
Make sure they were assembled to the same tolerances...
Then place all ten engines on laboratory dyno's on...
The same day, and time...
Have 5 engines filled with conventional oil... (or any other type)
Have 5 engines filled with synthetic oil...
Then have the engines run...
Have 5 Synthetic & 5 Conventional do an identical break-in...
1000 miles with varying engine speeds not exceeding 4k rpm...
Then go another 1000 miles at regular speeds...
(controlled on a dyno)
Change out your oil...
Refill both with synthetic oil...
Place both engines on the dyno again...
Do 2000 miles at regular speeds...
Change oil...
Do another 2000 miles at regular speeds...
(all done simulatanously side by side)
Then run engines on Dyno and measure horsepower...
BTW: Most manufacturer engineering departments don't just guess which type of oil to use. They do laboratory testing.
Last edited by 5StarSuzuki; Dec 1, 2003 at 05:14 PM.
