In the now closed thread entitled "Dynoflash vs XEDE" Brett was quoted as saying that the car to car variation in the evo was due to engine differences due to break in with synth oil...
This is very interesting and one of the only reasonable explanations of the evo to evo variation.

I have some questions though...

How could Mits be so irresponsible as to load the car with synth in such a throughly understood engine? (I mean if they want to push the Mobil 1 they could just say "recommended to use Mobil 1" without having it in the pan from the factory)

Has this variation been seen in eclipses and previous cars with the 4G63?

Doesn't the major amount of break in (ring seating, etc) happen within the first few miles on the car? Most cars sold usually have about 10 miles on them. Some have 50 or more. What about these evos? Is it too late? Should we not settle for an evo with more than 1 mile on the od?

What about other cars that come from the factory with synth? Why is the evo different? Is it?

 

The break in is one of the reasons we are seeing a discrepancy, not the only one. Boost differences between cars, possible build tolerance issues also play a part. As far as I know there has never been synthetic oil in any of the Evo 1-7, or the US Eclipse or Galant VR-4 from the factory. Someone correct me if I am mistaken.

As for the other cars (Porsche 911) most come with the motor already broken in, and the others such as the Northstar motor chew through oil at a pretty brisk rate. Mesinerboy did you check your oil?

 

I did dyno oil for the 1st 3,000 miles and my car makes about 20 more WHP then the other evo's on the dyno. Here is my chart. Also my stepfather work on P-cars, F-cars, and BMW and owns a shop said put in dyno just let the car cool with the timer. I think mitsu put in the Synth oil is because of people not letting the car cool. Anyway here is my dyno, and the lower green line is a different evo on the same dyno.....

 

Exactly. Mitsu is just covering their asses as usual. I'm curious to know if the Evo VIIIs in other parts of the world have synthetic from the factory?

 

Bah... I don't buy it. To many people stating it doesen't make a difference. Alot of shops build there engines, put them in the car and then dyno them at full boost.

If you could substantiate the break-in procedure by having the engine builders for Michael Schumacher explain it, then ok. Otherwise your countering the man who has built more DSM engines than anyone, Dave Buschur. And not to mention every other raceteam that rebuilds their engine inbetween runs.

I thought the last theory was spark-plugs?

 

Mitsubishi (and other manufacturers) use synthetic oil mainly for emission purposes. With synthetic oil (which remains nice and thin under all reasonable conditions), engines start quicker and smoother when cold (where most tailpipe emissions are registered). With non-synthetic, a cold engine would start off rougher and stumble a bit before settling to a nice stable idle. Long gone on are the days when cars can start up with a super rich and fast 2000rpm idle until coolant temps reach 60C. This are a lot tougher these days with EPA requirements becoming increasingly strict. This is first priority for manufacturers because failing to meet these requirements would mean not being allowed to sell the car in the US. How much power it makes over the course of the next 100k miles is of little importance since it is quite safe to say that the vast minority of people would ever dyno test their cars and report unsatisifactory results to the manufacturer.

This comes from a reliable source.

Shiv

 

About smelling gas in oil, isn't that because 1) the car runs rich and 2) the minor blowby that all cars have? I know I smell some gas in my oil and I'm sure most EVO owners do. I think I'll start a poll and see the results.

 

I've noticed that different gas brands contribute to these variances as well. Try different gas brands than dyno the car. You will be surprised at the results.
From my experience, it seems Union 76 gives the best performance while Chevron seem to give me better fuel economy.

 

Shiv,

If you compromise the integrity of the engine by having a synth break-in wont the problem of hydrocarbon build up in the oil be huge when you try to smog it 4 years down the line?

It seems Mits. squeeked by to solve a cold start up at the expense of daily driving emissions.

Also, could you please give us your intuition (or hard evidence) on how many initial miles with synth will lower the output of the 4G63? Are we looking at 1 or 3 or 30? And, initial driving can be a huge issue. If one were to get a car which was driven HARD in test drives at the dealer WITH synth albiet for only a few miles I would guess that this could effect break in time as well...

 

when mentioned break in time, do we mean the first couple miles as someone asked above or the whole break in period (800 - 1000 miles).

i just broke in mine and have 1100 miles. i had no clue bout the synthetic oil.

should i switch out the synethic to the mineral oil (if this does actually help strengthen the motor and get rid of the high hydrocarbon levels)? if so, how long should i wait to switch back to synthetic? im assuming its too late and i should just stick to the synthetic.

 

I am at 250 miles, am I too late also?

 

"Mobil 1. NO problem breaking engines in on synthetic from what I can tell. One thing you have to remember is when we build a race engine we don't have ANY break in. The engine goes in the car, we start it, double check for leaks and such and strap it to the dyno. The next time it starts it goes to 9500 rpm and well over 30 psi of boost. We use Amsoil synthetic in the cars. I have NEVER seen any adverse effect of running synthetic oils in the car and breaking them in just like this. Unless something goes wrong in the tuning or the other million things that can happen, the bearings, rings and cylinder walls always look top notch when the engines are torn down." - David Buschur

 

If you could give us some support for these claims, then ok. Otherwise your just scaring alot of people into wasted time and money. Frankly, if you post unsubstantiated findings, its the same thing as not knowing what your talking about.

"Thank you for contacting Mobil.

You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any time. In fact, Mobil 1 is the factory fill in Corvette LS1, LT-1 and LT-5 engines. And Mobil and Porsche just announced a new partnership that will also have all Porsche cars manufactured at the Zuffenhausen plant lubricated with Mobil 1. One of the myths that persists about Mobil 1 is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As the decisions by the engineers who design the Corvette and Porsche engines indicate, Mobil 1 can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the show room floor.

Mobil 1 can be used in older vehicles with high mileage on them . However, in older vehicles, if there is a problem with oil consumption or leakage, it may not be economically wise to convert to Mobil 1 until such mechanical problems have been corrected. " -Mobil 1

 

i think mitsu would know what they are doing also.....Thats your all's words against the people that have been building the evo for 11 years....I think i agree with 5star on this situation.

 

It's not just the oil, it is a combination of doing a gentle break in with the oil. David even says the engines go "straight on to the dyno w/ 30psi of boost". The Porsches and Vettes get run in at the factory. Does Mitsubishi break in each engine before it is put in the car? The consensious seems to be NO and that leaves the potential for some one to break it in too gentle causing excessive blow-by