My bad I've seen some ppl spell dino (dinosaur) oil as dynosaur. I wasn't sure so I just put dyno. Anyways, what will be a good DINO oil to break-in my car with?

JB

 

First, if you are eating oil at your stated rate, then you may have problems with the engine. Anybody else is burning oil? I do not.

Second, by running longer on dino will just give it more time to break down into undesirables, etc, etc, etc ad nauseum... If you have missed the break-in period (synth or dino, it's your choice - there is no right or wrong answer), stick with synth.

I am prepared to debate with Al the merits of running synth over dino in day-to-day driving 'til cows come home - to even suggest that dino is better in daily driving after the break-in period, is irresponsible, I think. Of course, it is a free country and Al can do whatever he want to his own car.

 

I have heard that on turbos sometimes the engine is not actually burning the oil, hence an oil catch can. I've never seen any blue smoke on high rev shifts and no one riding behind me has ever mentioned any. I would think if the engine was burning much oil it would be apparent when shifting at high rpms.

I just figure it can't hurt to try running the dino for 1100 miles and could possibly help.

One question I have is since I have a pit pass will the dealership be able to tell its not M1 when they drain it? Looks like they just use a 55 gal barrel to let it drain into so I don't se how they could.

 

They will smell it. or they just might not care. Just make sure to use the stock filter.

Eric

 

An old used car salesman trick is to use synth in a oil burner to dramatically cut down on it

 

"An old used car salesman trick is to use synth in a oil burner to dramatically cut down on it"

To cut down on smoke?

 

Oh yea doesnt blue or stink like dino only a car freak can tell- 99.9% of people arent car freaks

 

Well i just went out and ran the snot out of it shifting at over7k with the dino in. My friend was right behind in his Cobra, said no smoke or oil smell. Wonder where the oils been going? Maybe I need a oil catch can?

 

Best thing to do is a leakdown test to be sure. I would do one on my car but I don't have the right tool and an air compressor.

 

After reading this thread I'm concerned. I have 600 mi., used factory fill M1 following break in procedures prescribed in manual. At this point I'm considering draining the Mobil 1 & replacing with dino for the next 2-3k then back to Mobil 1 or equivalent. Any input appreciated. Lance

 

Back when I used to use organic oil, I always stuck with Castrol GTX . It's about $1.25 a quart at Walmart.

Everyone seems to think that GTX is the best of the commonly available brands. Some of my racing buddies swear by Kendall oil, but I hardly ever come across that stuff.

Emre

 

Isn't a leakdown test for the injectors? Maybe you mean compression test.

 

No, a leakdown test is far more effective at determining cylinder condition than a compression test.

When a leakdown test is performed a cylinder is charged with compressed air from an external source. The crank timing is set so that the cylinder is in it's compression stroke. The piston is moved at various positions and the percentage of leakage is measured at various points. If leak down varies as the piston is moved then it indicates cylinder wall damage. Otherwise leakage can be attributed to poor valve or ring seating.

I'd really, really like to see a leakdown test performed on a 4G63 broken in with dino oil and another performed on one broken in on synth oil with the "smelly oil" syndrome.

As has been stated ad nauseum, dyno measurements varies too much based on a number of variables and gas in the oil can be attributed to a rich running condition. Hmm, perhaps at WOT?

Back in the old days I've seen carburated engines with chronically stuck chokes exhibit the same symptom of smelly oil. The engine can run so rich that the gas mixture will literally condense on the cylinder walls and "wash" the oil off. This leads to major ring wear.

 

Your posts have been very helpful to the community and an easy read for the less technical But Id like to clarify this a little. Even in super rich conditions gas should NOT be making its way into the oil pan via way of the combustion chamber!! This is the whole essence of proper piston ring seal. On an old low tollerance motor OK I can see that On an aftermarket race (forged) internal engine that needs time to reach proper engine (and seal) temps OK Through a production TC engine- plain and simple improper ring seal

 

I guess more to my point is the question as to why there is excess fuel present in the cylinder at all so that it can blow by (for whatever reason) into the crank case. The fuel/air mixture should be well atomized and be consumed fully during the combustion process. If the fuel isn't being burned properly it should show up in the tail pipe as well as possibly in the oil.

Leaky injectors maybe? Can someone explain?

Now I really want to do a leakdown test.