Methonol Injection Should I keep it?
I remember seeing that exact same car on ebay about a month or so ago.here is some advice, never buy a modified vehicle unless you know it history.Your taking a big chance, but all in all good luck with the build
Abner,
Everyone mentions the EGT as a "way of viewing the temps of the exhaust" in reality nor any digital or analog gauge will give you a warning fast enough for you to prevent blowing up. I have two personal 4G63 blow up engines on my curriculum, both times it happen in a split of second during hard acceleration, there is virtually no time to read EGT nor AFR during these situations.
The EGT is a pig, it takes seconds to display the real temp, you can't really rely on such slow reading mechanism. That is one reason why I don't use EGT anymore.
As far is the AFR reading gauges, what can I say.. look at the autometer led one, it bounces left to right to left to right to left to right all the time, I don't even bother even having one either. They are very inaccurate and unestable.. whenever you get a reading on an autometer AFR led gauge you always get several leds lit instead of accurately having a single led indicating a estable reading..
Ironically, both the EGT and the AFR actually read sort of "steady" only when you keep the pedal to the floor for a few seconds and you already know what will happen next, you will read something accurate at the cost of blowing your engine. There is no way around bro.
If I want a fail safe I will be looking at some sort of flow detection system instead.
my .2c
Carlos
Everyone mentions the EGT as a "way of viewing the temps of the exhaust" in reality nor any digital or analog gauge will give you a warning fast enough for you to prevent blowing up. I have two personal 4G63 blow up engines on my curriculum, both times it happen in a split of second during hard acceleration, there is virtually no time to read EGT nor AFR during these situations.
The EGT is a pig, it takes seconds to display the real temp, you can't really rely on such slow reading mechanism. That is one reason why I don't use EGT anymore.
As far is the AFR reading gauges, what can I say.. look at the autometer led one, it bounces left to right to left to right to left to right all the time, I don't even bother even having one either. They are very inaccurate and unestable.. whenever you get a reading on an autometer AFR led gauge you always get several leds lit instead of accurately having a single led indicating a estable reading..
Ironically, both the EGT and the AFR actually read sort of "steady" only when you keep the pedal to the floor for a few seconds and you already know what will happen next, you will read something accurate at the cost of blowing your engine. There is no way around bro.
If I want a fail safe I will be looking at some sort of flow detection system instead.
my .2c
Carlos
The EGT is only as good and fast as its probe. Zeitronix K type low mass thermocouples are amongst the fastest there are available that will not break two weeks later.
Now compared to a high mass Autometer probe, it is night and day in speed. However Abner was pointing out that it was a Zeitronix EGT safeguard that he was referring to so the highly reactive, high speed EGT would likely have helped save his motor in this case.
Just a FYI. K-type thermocouples are becoming a thing of the past. Now that some new developments in the metal industry it seems that a N-type thermocouple are much more improved than the old K-type. Right now Im waiting on the new type thermocouple and see if the Zeitronix will accept the reading.
All thermocouples work the same way it's just the type of metals used that generate a different voltage, hence the different calibrations used.
All thermocouples work the same way it's just the type of metals used that generate a different voltage, hence the different calibrations used.
the response time of the thermocouple is very much dependent of the construction. There are 3 types:
1)Exposed - the junction is outside the metal sheath
2)Grounded - the junction is welded to the metal sheath
3)Ungrounded - there is insulation(MgO) in between the wire junction and the metal sheath
1 reads fast, but will be dead in no time, 3 has the slowest response. 2 is a good choice for fast response due to transient temp response and ~long life.
1)Exposed - the junction is outside the metal sheath
2)Grounded - the junction is welded to the metal sheath
3)Ungrounded - there is insulation(MgO) in between the wire junction and the metal sheath
1 reads fast, but will be dead in no time, 3 has the slowest response. 2 is a good choice for fast response due to transient temp response and ~long life.
Cost will always play a factor in a reasonable consumer product. If you have any suggestions and benefits on other exhaust probe types, send me a PM so I can discuss the application with the manufacturer.
the response time of the thermocouple is very much dependent of the construction. There are 3 types:
1)Exposed - the junction is outside the metal sheath
2)Grounded - the junction is welded to the metal sheath
3)Ungrounded - there is insulation(MgO) in between the wire junction and the metal sheath
1 reads fast, but will be dead in no time, 3 has the slowest response. 2 is a good choice for fast response due to transient temp response and ~long life.
1)Exposed - the junction is outside the metal sheath
2)Grounded - the junction is welded to the metal sheath
3)Ungrounded - there is insulation(MgO) in between the wire junction and the metal sheath
1 reads fast, but will be dead in no time, 3 has the slowest response. 2 is a good choice for fast response due to transient temp response and ~long life.
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What i also wanted to know if i should change my injectors. i have 660cc right now, but i was thinking of upgrading to 880cc.

