***Official UT Chat Thread***
No one I know of or have ever heard that wrecked theirs. Thats not a bad deal at all for the Damage done to it. I Could fix it all for a Few G's and it look good as new
Apagan01 are you looking at buying this to rebuild? I do some of this area of work and no a bit about this place. Helped a Friend rebuild his VW R32 he bought from there. I would love to pick this up personally if I wasn't in school and had time to rebuild it. Most expensive parts is Straightening the Damaged radiator support, replacing the Headlight and Air Bag. Other than that all can be sourced out for pretty good deals usually
PM me if you have any more questions or concerns
Always willing to help out where I can 
Apagan01 are you looking at buying this to rebuild? I do some of this area of work and no a bit about this place. Helped a Friend rebuild his VW R32 he bought from there. I would love to pick this up personally if I wasn't in school and had time to rebuild it. Most expensive parts is Straightening the Damaged radiator support, replacing the Headlight and Air Bag. Other than that all can be sourced out for pretty good deals usually

PM me if you have any more questions or concerns
Always willing to help out where I can 
the work is easy to do, and i can get everything for under 3K,,,, but i am not dealing with these people if they dont know how to deal with customer they dont deserve my business,,,,
if you happen to go and see this car in person let me know,,, this car is obviouse it was moded, and they pulled the IX seat and slapped evo 8 seats on it
yeah i called the place and it looks like the car was from arizona, but he first had said it was from CA, the guy did not seem easy to deal with,, he did not want to take a video to show me the car ran like he said it did.
the work is easy to do, and i can get everything for under 3K,,,, but i am not dealing with these people if they dont know how to deal with customer they dont deserve my business,,,,
if you happen to go and see this car in person let me know,,, this car is obviouse it was moded, and they pulled the IX seat and slapped evo 8 seats on it
the work is easy to do, and i can get everything for under 3K,,,, but i am not dealing with these people if they dont know how to deal with customer they dont deserve my business,,,,
if you happen to go and see this car in person let me know,,, this car is obviouse it was moded, and they pulled the IX seat and slapped evo 8 seats on it
it was they way they were pushing the cars. accelerating strange. Made a care smoke. Im not sure if that was the cars problem or theirs. Also, they were all getting some low numbers. They have a mustang dyno. which has been the one ive been doing mine for the last few yrs. I got 340 whp with meth. But that was in cali. Not tuned for high altitude.
Was a bolt on car.
Not anymore
Any guesstimates on whp?
Fpblack e85
manley crank
manley pistons
manley rods
280's
sbr 2200's
3" catless
3" o2 housing
HKS rs intake
Forge MBC
arp head studs
arp main studs
arp rod bolts
acl bearings
all kinds of other little doo dads.
Not anymore
Any guesstimates on whp?
Fpblack e85
manley crank
manley pistons
manley rods
280's
sbr 2200's
3" catless
3" o2 housing
HKS rs intake
Forge MBC
arp head studs
arp main studs
arp rod bolts
acl bearings
all kinds of other little doo dads.
What Boost and What Dyno?
anyone one here know how to go about degreeing cams? I've read that for the most part people just mess with the cam gears on the dyno and figure out what works best with the set up. Is there a way to just make sure that the cams are phased correctly?
Then you have to take those numbers and get an dial indicator to tell you where the top dead center is on each lobe relative to the angle you've moved the cam.
I'm sure with a large degree chart wheel, a good dial depth indicator, and some patience you could figure it out.
The easy news is each set of lobes are offset on our cams at 90deg. from each other.
Let me know your setup. I'd be very interested of at least checking my Comp Cams before stuffing them in.
~j.
The first trick is finding what angle from TDC the dowel pin is located at on the cam.
Then you have to take those numbers and get an dial indicator to tell you where the top dead center is on each lobe relative to the angle you've moved the cam.
I'm sure with a large degree chart wheel, a good dial depth indicator, and some patience you could figure it out.
The easy news is each set of lobes are offset on our cams at 90deg. from each other.
Let me know your setup. I'd be very interested of at least checking my Comp Cams before stuffing them in.
~j.
Then you have to take those numbers and get an dial indicator to tell you where the top dead center is on each lobe relative to the angle you've moved the cam.
I'm sure with a large degree chart wheel, a good dial depth indicator, and some patience you could figure it out.
The easy news is each set of lobes are offset on our cams at 90deg. from each other.
Let me know your setup. I'd be very interested of at least checking my Comp Cams before stuffing them in.
~j.
Comp grinds their cams to make best low end torque. Don't do anything with the exaust cam & you can pull up to around -4* from the intake cam for more top end power....honestly though the car will more than likely feel best with the cams installed straight up...thats usually where I have mine set

EDIT: Comp claims stock springs are fine...i would strongly recomend upgrading them.
Last edited by gear head; Oct 22, 2010 at 07:22 AM.



