***Official UT Chat Thread***
I didn't know about all the ground stuff. Lots of good info thank you.
The problem he was having is that his gauges had been working just fine for the past 6 months and then all of a sudden they didn't want to work right anymore. Instead of turning on with the ignition and then switching colors with the headlights being turned on they could actually turn on with the car off and the headlights on and they no longer changed colors like they were supposed to. We fixed all the connections and even rewired them exactly like mine are run and it still didn't fix the problem. We eventually had to just run them off the fuse box.
Lucky you the closest one to us isn't very close
The problem he was having is that his gauges had been working just fine for the past 6 months and then all of a sudden they didn't want to work right anymore. Instead of turning on with the ignition and then switching colors with the headlights being turned on they could actually turn on with the car off and the headlights on and they no longer changed colors like they were supposed to. We fixed all the connections and even rewired them exactly like mine are run and it still didn't fix the problem. We eventually had to just run them off the fuse box.
Lucky you the closest one to us isn't very close
With them not doing it before and then all of a sudden doing it, that's very strange indeed.
Would you have the gauges type/model and a place for an instruction booklet I could make a recommendation from?
Thanks!
~j.
There is a small chance the gauges are getting power or deciding to power themselves from the headlights on signal.
With them not doing it before and then all of a sudden doing it, that's very strange indeed.
Would you have the gauges type/model and a place for an instruction booklet I could make a recommendation from?
Thanks!
~j.
With them not doing it before and then all of a sudden doing it, that's very strange indeed.
Would you have the gauges type/model and a place for an instruction booklet I could make a recommendation from?
Thanks!
~j.
Regardless here's my findings:
Q: I lost my instructions how do I wire the performance Series gauge?
A: Black –Ground
Red - 12v ign. power-meaning power when the ignition is on.
White- 12v ign. power
Orange-Headlight switch.
Green - Sender
The above/below wiring will result in white during the day and color (amber or Green) at night.
Q: How Do I wire my Premium Series(Peak/Warning) Gauges?
A: Red -Constant 12v power
Black-Ground
White-12v ignition power
Orange-headlight switch
Green –Sender
A: Black –Ground
Red - 12v ign. power-meaning power when the ignition is on.
White- 12v ign. power
Orange-Headlight switch.
Green - Sender
The above/below wiring will result in white during the day and color (amber or Green) at night.
Q: How Do I wire my Premium Series(Peak/Warning) Gauges?
A: Red -Constant 12v power
Black-Ground
White-12v ignition power
Orange-headlight switch
Green –Sender
Regardless you have the bottom gauge. If you're saying that the gauge stays on all of the time. I'm thinking the gauge is bad and not responding properly, or if you have more than one (thinking more than one is not likely to be bad) I'm wondering if White is giving a false signal when powered off.
You can check white's operation like this. Power car off (key out), put a voltmeter between white and ground. Make sure its 0 volts. Turn lights on, make sure its 0 volts. Turn lights off. Put key in Ign, turn to Ign on, check White against ground. Should be 12V. I wonder if white is giving you problems.
Edit: Come to think of it ... they might allow the gauge to be powered when the lights come on regardless of Ign or not. Is that the case with this gauge?
Also ... do you have white tied to anything else, newish currently, like an after-market radio?
gl
~j.
Here is the best information I could find. I'm not happy they don't produce a .pdf on their website that gives a very detailed explanation of each gauge.
Regardless here's my findings:
You'll see that the premium and the performance are different. For some reason (which doesn't make sense) the performance Red and White are 'exactly' the same. This is odd.
Regardless you have the bottom gauge. If you're saying that the gauge stays on all of the time. I'm thinking the gauge is bad and not responding properly, or if you have more than one (thinking more than one is not likely to be bad) I'm wondering if White is giving a false signal when powered off.
You can check white's operation like this. Power car off (key out), put a voltmeter between white and ground. Make sure its 0 volts. Turn lights on, make sure its 0 volts. Turn lights off. Put key in Ign, turn to Ign on, check White against ground. Should be 12V. I wonder if white is giving you problems.
Edit: Come to think of it ... they might allow the gauge to be powered when the lights come on regardless of Ign or not. Is that the case with this gauge?
Also ... do you have white tied to anything else, newish currently, like an after-market radio?
gl
~j.
Regardless here's my findings:
You'll see that the premium and the performance are different. For some reason (which doesn't make sense) the performance Red and White are 'exactly' the same. This is odd.
Regardless you have the bottom gauge. If you're saying that the gauge stays on all of the time. I'm thinking the gauge is bad and not responding properly, or if you have more than one (thinking more than one is not likely to be bad) I'm wondering if White is giving a false signal when powered off.
You can check white's operation like this. Power car off (key out), put a voltmeter between white and ground. Make sure its 0 volts. Turn lights on, make sure its 0 volts. Turn lights off. Put key in Ign, turn to Ign on, check White against ground. Should be 12V. I wonder if white is giving you problems.
Edit: Come to think of it ... they might allow the gauge to be powered when the lights come on regardless of Ign or not. Is that the case with this gauge?
Also ... do you have white tied to anything else, newish currently, like an after-market radio?
gl
~j.
I originally had them tied in th aftermarket stereo harness, then moved them to the clock. Now they are takin power/ground from the clock. But the ign and dimmer is hooked into the fuse block which is working great for the time being.
I also tested the gauges on the battery as prosport told me to diagnose them and they are all working properly.
Well then I win yesterday too. 
I thought someone did a 5 am post again.
That seems odd? Why would you do that? Someone is automatically going to pay more than a trade in value... And the tax break (if they are in Utah) isn't usually near good enough to make that up.
I thought someone did a 5 am post again.That seems odd? Why would you do that? Someone is automatically going to pay more than a trade in value... And the tax break (if they are in Utah) isn't usually near good enough to make that up.