Utah Evos
Max mid-range torque "under the curve". I suppose everybody says that, but being able to get the turbo spun up for "modulation" corner-exit would be I think the most useful for me.
It really sounds like the 272s, as useful as they are, won't promote this as much as say a set of S1s.?
~j.
It really sounds like the 272s, as useful as they are, won't promote this as much as say a set of S1s.?
~j.
I've driven cars with longer duration, and it really isn't that bad. But I probably wouldn't go over 272.
I had an electronic accusump in the Evo. It was great.
Last edited by UT_Evo; Jan 28, 2010 at 07:55 PM.
bastard. lol
somehow i got sucked into this long *** thread about an evo 6 build but gotdamn this thing is bad. most of you that know me well know how much i LOVE fabrication. this guy is top notch with everything he made for this car. want to get inspired?
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=268523
some of you will love this and others will be like "oh its too long of a read", well dont read it and just look through the pics and i guarantee you will find yourself reading about the details.
somehow i got sucked into this long *** thread about an evo 6 build but gotdamn this thing is bad. most of you that know me well know how much i LOVE fabrication. this guy is top notch with everything he made for this car. want to get inspired?
http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=268523
some of you will love this and others will be like "oh its too long of a read", well dont read it and just look through the pics and i guarantee you will find yourself reading about the details.
wes you are soooo right. i absolutely love the 6. my favorite evo of all time is the TME evo 6 in silver. i think thats why i like my galant so much is that they share similar body lines, just the galant is seriously about a foot longer.
When I was researching the S1s were the best for my application, which was factory motor, factory turbo, bolt-ons and a tune. S1s were the best for where I wanted the power band and how I wanted the car to act.
I've driven cars with longer duration, and it really isn't that bad. But I probably wouldn't go over 272.
I've driven cars with longer duration, and it really isn't that bad. But I probably wouldn't go over 272.
Sounds like I want to get some specs out again, and make a choice around the HKS 272s numbers.
The only real comprehensive back to back test seemed to be the one done by Martin at AMS; which was keep everything the same except for the cam. However he was running a full race head with race goodies on it. :P
Speaking of the Tomei turbo in general, those with super high lift / duration cams, seem to make similar or less torque under the curve than those running smaller cams. For that I'm considering a 272 in / 264 ex with the smaller exhaust cam to promote lower rpm flow. My theory is to try to get that turbo spooled quicker.
*Sigh* I wish somebody would do a Ti/Al turbine TME with a Tomei type compressor. The TME was always reported as 'the' track / all-around street turbo.
Thanks for the advice!(Don't ya drive a Subie now?)
Glad to have you support us lolzarz here still.
It seems the longer duration allows higher lift, which for some applications works well.
Sounds like I want to get some specs out again, and make a choice around the HKS 272s numbers.
The only real comprehensive back to back test seemed to be the one done by Martin at AMS; which was keep everything the same except for the cam. However he was running a full race head with race goodies on it. :P
Speaking of the Tomei turbo in general, those with super high lift / duration cams, seem to make similar or less torque under the curve than those running smaller cams. For that I'm considering a 272 in / 264 ex with the smaller exhaust cam to promote lower rpm flow. My theory is to try to get that turbo spooled quicker.
*Sigh* I wish somebody would do a Ti/Al turbine TME with a Tomei type compressor. The TME was always reported as 'the' track / all-around street turbo.
Thanks for the advice!
(Don't ya drive a Subie now?)
Glad to have you support us lolzarz here still. 
Sounds like I want to get some specs out again, and make a choice around the HKS 272s numbers.
The only real comprehensive back to back test seemed to be the one done by Martin at AMS; which was keep everything the same except for the cam. However he was running a full race head with race goodies on it. :P
Speaking of the Tomei turbo in general, those with super high lift / duration cams, seem to make similar or less torque under the curve than those running smaller cams. For that I'm considering a 272 in / 264 ex with the smaller exhaust cam to promote lower rpm flow. My theory is to try to get that turbo spooled quicker.
*Sigh* I wish somebody would do a Ti/Al turbine TME with a Tomei type compressor. The TME was always reported as 'the' track / all-around street turbo.
Thanks for the advice!(Don't ya drive a Subie now?)
Glad to have you support us lolzarz here still. 
272/264 was the old school way to do it, most of the people that did that (or were planning on doing that) have gone with S1s now (which are 268, IIRC). And the TME 6.5 turbo was the one I was going to get, but there's probably better things out there now for quick spooling stock (or slightly larger than stock) turbos.
You should check with Fairclough too, I know he's done some pretty cool things to help a larger turbo spool much faster, I bet with a smaller turbo he could do some pretty crazy stuff.
The Evo crowd (for the most part) is much cooler than most of the Subie crowd anyway, I think that most of the older GD guys hate the GR guys or something, cuz the only ones I've really made friends with are the GR guys.
I bought the Subie over an Evo for a few reasons: 1) I couldn't find a IX with low miles for much less than the STi was, and the STi was 2 years newer and had about 10k less miles than the lowest mile IX. The IXs were (and are) too hot of a commodity. 2) I've always loved hatchbacks/wagons, and when the STi (which is, for the most part, an Evo) came out as one that looked decent I loved it. I almost bought an A3 when I was selling the Evo, but I couldn't stand how slow they are. 3) I was not about to buy a X unless they took an insane amount of money off because I knew I'd have to be paying for "warranty" work out of my own pocket with the luck I had in the past.
There's a few other tidbits, things I liked about the STi over the Evo that are all just personal pref. But for the most part, those were the deciding factors. Had I found a used IX (non MR/RS/SE) with 20k miles or less for 20k or less (in good shape, non-salvaged), I would've jumped on it. Unfortunately any that I found even close to those miles were going for nearly 26k... I paid 28k for the STi, and it only had 7k miles on it and was a dealer owned car (non-demo, it was a dealer car when they first came out, meaning it was in insanely good shape [before I got a hold of it
]).Anyway, off topic there, but that's to clear up if anyone wonders why I'm still here, for all those new people. I love the Evo, and I'd be in a IX, but they were too damn expensive for what they were and what else was avail. And I like you guys more than the Subie crowd (I get chewed out by them for the UtahEvos sticker all the time, and I don't care).
yeah and the galant will be alot faster as well!! bj what the hell is up with sheppard? closing the school for that? dude that looks like where my room was at when i went to 7 level school? what room number are you?
I have a quick question, I have the MR FQ400 wheels and the clearcoat on the wheels is starting to bubble and peel. I am planning on getting them repainted sometime this spring.
Should I....
A) Powdercoat Gloss Black
B) Powdercoat Matte Bronze
C) Powdercoat White.....mmm
Should I....
A) Powdercoat Gloss Black
B) Powdercoat Matte Bronze
C) Powdercoat White.....mmm
Hi Again ... Thanks regardless for your support Jake ...
lolz ... I think there should be a SAE certification a cam manufacturer should be able to stamp on their cams 'before' slapping a magical number on them and shuffling them out the door.
From my turbo research overlap is 'the' killer in getting the most out of a forced induction motor. So I put down a small list of potential cams, and saw this:
GSC S1s are Intake 11mm and Exhaust 10.5mm lift on a 268 lobe. So that supported the idea of a smaller Exhaust lift in order to promote a little more low end flow to get the turbo spooled. Turbo spooled = usable power now.
Cosworth M1s are 10.2mm Intake and Exhaust on a 268 lobe.
... and ... here's where it gets interesting:
Comp Cams 280+ are 11mm Intake and 10.4mm exhaust with basically a 264 lobe.
That really made me sit back and think.
Last year I met another black evo driver in Odgen that mentioned he was tuning up a set of Comp Cams 280+ and really liked them. A 280 duration really seemed like overkill for a street setup, but after seeing those numbers I realized Comp is using the 280 number as advertising 'not' as how the cam is necessarily setup.
Another interesting one was the Kelford 264s at 11mm intake and 10.3mm exhaust.
The correlation seems to be a large intake lift and a smallerish exhaust lift. Most of the big turbo cams then jump to 11mm exhaust and larger. Another thing I wish would be well advertised is the LSA, and secondly rating all of the cam's durations at 1mm lift just to establish the "true" duration.
The N/A guys really focus on these numbers as there is not much else easy to do other than headers, exhaust, intake, and a cam. With the EVO (Subie) ish communities it seems everybody goes towards the big phat turbo and tries to get that magical dyno plot, and seeing a more independent cam variable is pretty hard to get, especially with the numbers being so hidden. In other words its "today I just put in a big phat turbo AND a cam!"
Personally I think I'm going to put in a set of cams, wait a couple of weeks give some reports, and then put in the turbo.
./rant off
~j.
lolz ... I think there should be a SAE certification a cam manufacturer should be able to stamp on their cams 'before' slapping a magical number on them and shuffling them out the door.
From my turbo research overlap is 'the' killer in getting the most out of a forced induction motor. So I put down a small list of potential cams, and saw this:
GSC S1s are Intake 11mm and Exhaust 10.5mm lift on a 268 lobe. So that supported the idea of a smaller Exhaust lift in order to promote a little more low end flow to get the turbo spooled. Turbo spooled = usable power now.
Cosworth M1s are 10.2mm Intake and Exhaust on a 268 lobe.
... and ... here's where it gets interesting:
Comp Cams 280+ are 11mm Intake and 10.4mm exhaust with basically a 264 lobe.
That really made me sit back and think.
Last year I met another black evo driver in Odgen that mentioned he was tuning up a set of Comp Cams 280+ and really liked them. A 280 duration really seemed like overkill for a street setup, but after seeing those numbers I realized Comp is using the 280 number as advertising 'not' as how the cam is necessarily setup.
Another interesting one was the Kelford 264s at 11mm intake and 10.3mm exhaust.
The correlation seems to be a large intake lift and a smallerish exhaust lift. Most of the big turbo cams then jump to 11mm exhaust and larger. Another thing I wish would be well advertised is the LSA, and secondly rating all of the cam's durations at 1mm lift just to establish the "true" duration.
The N/A guys really focus on these numbers as there is not much else easy to do other than headers, exhaust, intake, and a cam. With the EVO (Subie) ish communities it seems everybody goes towards the big phat turbo and tries to get that magical dyno plot, and seeing a more independent cam variable is pretty hard to get, especially with the numbers being so hidden. In other words its "today I just put in a big phat turbo AND a cam!"
Personally I think I'm going to put in a set of cams, wait a couple of weeks give some reports, and then put in the turbo.
./rant off

~j.
The Evo crowd (for the most part) is much cooler than most of the Subie crowd anyway, I think that most of the older GD guys hate the GR guys or something, cuz the only ones I've really made friends with are the GR guys.
I bought the Subie over an Evo for a few reasons: 1) I couldn't find a IX with low miles for much less than the STi was, and the STi was 2 years newer and had about 10k less miles than the lowest mile IX. The IXs were (and are) too hot of a commodity. 2) I've always loved hatchbacks/wagons, and when the STi (which is, for the most part, an Evo) came out as one that looked decent I loved it. I almost bought an A3 when I was selling the Evo, but I couldn't stand how slow they are. 3) I was not about to buy a X unless they took an insane amount of money off because I knew I'd have to be paying for "warranty" work out of my own pocket with the luck I had in the past.
There's a few other tidbits, things I liked about the STi over the Evo that are all just personal pref. But for the most part, those were the deciding factors. Had I found a used IX (non MR/RS/SE) with 20k miles or less for 20k or less (in good shape, non-salvaged), I would've jumped on it. Unfortunately any that I found even close to those miles were going for nearly 26k... I paid 28k for the STi, and it only had 7k miles on it and was a dealer owned car (non-demo, it was a dealer car when they first came out, meaning it was in insanely good shape [before I got a hold of it
]).
I bought the Subie over an Evo for a few reasons: 1) I couldn't find a IX with low miles for much less than the STi was, and the STi was 2 years newer and had about 10k less miles than the lowest mile IX. The IXs were (and are) too hot of a commodity. 2) I've always loved hatchbacks/wagons, and when the STi (which is, for the most part, an Evo) came out as one that looked decent I loved it. I almost bought an A3 when I was selling the Evo, but I couldn't stand how slow they are. 3) I was not about to buy a X unless they took an insane amount of money off because I knew I'd have to be paying for "warranty" work out of my own pocket with the luck I had in the past.
There's a few other tidbits, things I liked about the STi over the Evo that are all just personal pref. But for the most part, those were the deciding factors. Had I found a used IX (non MR/RS/SE) with 20k miles or less for 20k or less (in good shape, non-salvaged), I would've jumped on it. Unfortunately any that I found even close to those miles were going for nearly 26k... I paid 28k for the STi, and it only had 7k miles on it and was a dealer owned car (non-demo, it was a dealer car when they first came out, meaning it was in insanely good shape [before I got a hold of it
]).
I have a quick question, I have the MR FQ400 wheels and the clearcoat on the wheels is starting to bubble and peel. I am planning on getting them repainted sometime this spring.
Should I....
A) Powdercoat Gloss Black
B) Powdercoat Matte Bronze
C) Powdercoat White.....mmm
Should I....
A) Powdercoat Gloss Black
B) Powdercoat Matte Bronze
C) Powdercoat White.....mmm
I'm not convinced that powder coating really improves the color and look of the wheel. Unless I'm mistaken powder coating costs extra?

However I have seen some really good wheels done with a nice pre-packaged automotive paint followed up by a low-gloss satin clear - durable stuff. The other good news is if you ever scrape your wheel set, you can play some buff games, and repaint as a touch up.
What was your car color again?
~j.


