p2, and 21 psi :(
Are you saying that the P2 can't benefit from an MBC? My gauge bounces up and down fairly hard when it peaks... I rather thought an MBC could help that...
I've seen it hit 21+ then drop to 17 then back up near 20 then settle at 19...
Forgive my ignorance here and thanks in advance.
I've seen it hit 21+ then drop to 17 then back up near 20 then settle at 19...
Forgive my ignorance here and thanks in advance.
We have yet to find a commercially available MBC which can maintain consistent boost all the way (to rev limiter) but we are still open to trying any and all.
I have experienced very sophisitcated pressure regulators in scientific environments which are not practical in packaging nor price for automotive applications.
I have experienced very sophisitcated pressure regulators in scientific environments which are not practical in packaging nor price for automotive applications.
Originally Posted by KazzEvo8
Are you saying that the P2 can't benefit from an MBC? My gauge bounces up and down fairly hard when it peaks... I rather thought an MBC could help that...
I've seen it hit 21+ then drop to 17 then back up near 20 then settle at 19...
Forgive my ignorance here and thanks in advance.
I've seen it hit 21+ then drop to 17 then back up near 20 then settle at 19...
Forgive my ignorance here and thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by Jamie@WORKS
Additional tuning isn't necessary for a BOV. A good BOV that seals properly and doesn't leak, flutter, etc... is all you need. Whether you can acheive this with the OEM unit or an aftermarket valve (such as our WORKS/GFB unit) doesn't matter to the ECU.
Car threw another CEL yesterday.
Originally Posted by boomn29
Car threw another CEL yesterday.
If I'm under partial throttle (noted by boost levels of like -10 versus 0 for cruising throttle) mainly in the 70 - 80mph ranges, I get some type of loud exhaust-type feedback.
The dealer pulled the code when I went in for a recall fix about 3 weeks ago. He said it was some misfire code, so I figured it was the P0300.
Why, after like 15,000 miles would I develop it?
If it is that, there isn't a fix from Mitsu yet is there? Could I just live with it? Or should I send my ecu in to you guys for the P2 related fix that you developed?
Why, after like 15,000 miles would I develop it?
If it is that, there isn't a fix from Mitsu yet is there? Could I just live with it? Or should I send my ecu in to you guys for the P2 related fix that you developed?
Originally Posted by boomn29
The dealer pulled the code when I went in for a recall fix about 3 weeks ago. He said it was some misfire code, so I figured it was the P0300.
Why, after like 15,000 miles would I develop it?
If it is that, there isn't a fix from Mitsu yet is there? Could I just live with it? Or should I send my ecu in to you guys for the P2 related fix that you developed?
Why, after like 15,000 miles would I develop it?
If it is that, there isn't a fix from Mitsu yet is there? Could I just live with it? Or should I send my ecu in to you guys for the P2 related fix that you developed?
Originally Posted by marksae
Around what mileage do cars typically get the P0300 misfire code? I'm at 12k miles right now and haven't had a problem with it.
Mine came at exactly 30,000 mi. (!)...weird.
I started "messing" with my car when it had about 23,000 miles.
I am still blaming my mods as triggering the P0300...but I can live with that.
Others have mentioned that thay get the code, even without mods.
so that P0300 is freakin weird....so random, too unpredictable.
the dealer flash helped a bit (my ecu would reset itself, basically)
the stumbles have been less also
that "harmonic resonance" theory is what I'm buying - at the moment. I'm not going back to stock, though
52k miles and no P0300. Yeah, don't think about it and if it does happen you know that it can be cured for the most part. Go back to Works get the reflash and buy something to that will make you faster! By the time you blaze the on ramp you'll forget about the troubles!
Originally Posted by KazzEvo8
Are you saying that the P2 can't benefit from an MBC? My gauge bounces up and down fairly hard when it peaks... I rather thought an MBC could help that...
I've seen it hit 21+ then drop to 17 then back up near 20 then settle at 19...
Forgive my ignorance here and thanks in advance.
I've seen it hit 21+ then drop to 17 then back up near 20 then settle at 19...
Forgive my ignorance here and thanks in advance.
several peeps have this problem. Goes up and down and back again, holding boost just fine.
its odd but you see it also on the dyno sheet, loosing abit of midrange
when you are tracking your car and you are at a turn this doesnt help
We’re sure as heck not loosing any midrange power with our P2 at any location on course, especially in or coming off the corners. As a matter of fact on an Autox course we spend most of our time in the midrange of the power band. Actually, if I get overzealous coming of the turns I can start to spin up the Kuhmos. I’ve used the throttle more than once to power the rear of the car around because of a driver induced pushed.
I have a similar problem, I just noticed that the boost spikes to 23psi, then drops to around 17psi, then raises back to 19-20 and stays there. It seems the ECU is over compensating after the boost spike and needs to build boost again, anyway of fixing that? Would a larger o2 housing help prevent the spike? MBC?


