p2, and 21 psi :(
Originally Posted by Jamie@WORKS
The above plus your previous statement:
is making me think of the P0300. I would have the code checked to confirm as I've yet to experience this in my own EVO, but others have described the exact condition to me.
is making me think of the P0300. I would have the code checked to confirm as I've yet to experience this in my own EVO, but others have described the exact condition to me.
Yep, I'm officially claiming myself in the P0300 group. Did more research and found other people noting the same problem such as:
"It popped on this morning on my way to work, in 5th gear, 80% throttle, 80~mph or so. I felt the car emitting a mild vibration in the pedal and when I looked down the SES light was right there staring at me. I swung by the dealership on my lunch break and confirmed that it was in fact my 3rd occurrence of the P0300."
The bigger problem is there is no sure-fire fix. I don't feel like visiting my dealship once a week just to get reflashes that don't seem to work very often. Plus, it would be overwriting my P2... then you have to start overnighting to California to get it back and damn...
I'm not blaming the P2 or Works - blaming Mitsu.
Originally Posted by jstockdale
Isn't WORKS already shipping the P2 code that has the P0300 fix integrated?
-S ...
-S ...
Originally Posted by Jamie@WORKS
WORKS is doing the P2 integration for our customer who have the P0300. If they aren't experiencing the P0300, there is no need for an integration. The protocol is to have the dealership reflash the ECU for their P0300 fix (which does overwrite the P2 software). Then WORKS will integrate the two (for free) if you stop by or mail in your ECU.
WORKS doesn't have a fix for us directly?
Originally Posted by Jamie@WORKS
Just be aware that your boost will not be controlled by the ECU after the dealer reflashes it and you'll want to take it easy on the throttle until the P2 is loaded back on.
The dealer reflash overwrites the ECU's ability to control boost as dictated by the P2 software. Staying out of boost would be ideal under this condition, but as long as you are monitoring boost and keeping it below 20, you should be OK.
We have seen the dealer P0300 update eliminate a number of our customer's problems and that is why we recommend it.
We have seen the dealer P0300 update eliminate a number of our customer's problems and that is why we recommend it.
Originally Posted by Jamie@WORKS
We have seen the dealer P0300 update eliminate a number of our customer's problems and that is why we recommend it.
Originally Posted by Jamie@WORKS
We have seen the dealer P0300 update eliminate a number of our customer's problems and that is why we recommend it.
"Originally Posted by nbpal4000
i juss got evo back from my dealer...it was there for 3 days..
and i asked them how did u guys fixed the 0300 problem, and the technitian said "we just reset the ecu",i was like isnt there a reflash for that code from mitsu headq? and he said "we dont have any reflash from mitsu corp....", FAWK it took them 3 days to just reset the ecu...damn...i hate em..."
i juss got evo back from my dealer...it was there for 3 days..
and i asked them how did u guys fixed the 0300 problem, and the technitian said "we just reset the ecu",i was like isnt there a reflash for that code from mitsu headq? and he said "we dont have any reflash from mitsu corp....", FAWK it took them 3 days to just reset the ecu...damn...i hate em..."
What RT said ...
Just remember that alot of Mitsubishi dealers suck *****. I want to think of a better way to put it, but that's just the fact. They arn't used to dealing with a car on the level of the Evo, and many don't know what they're doing.
There definitely is a P0300 reflash, that's not just "Resetting the ECU."
It's most dealer's ignorance that made me decide that no one except San Rafael Mitsubishi or WORKS will ever touch my car.
-S ...
Just remember that alot of Mitsubishi dealers suck *****. I want to think of a better way to put it, but that's just the fact. They arn't used to dealing with a car on the level of the Evo, and many don't know what they're doing.
There definitely is a P0300 reflash, that's not just "Resetting the ECU."
It's most dealer's ignorance that made me decide that no one except San Rafael Mitsubishi or WORKS will ever touch my car.
-S ...
http://www.norcalevo.net/gallery/alb...um35/boost.mpg
Back to the subject of the post, above is a short (but large) mpeg1 video of my defi-link gauge playing back a WOT 'event' in gears 2, 3, 4, and briefly 5. You can clearly see the boost spike and then fall back. I don't remember where I shifted but it was probably around 6k.
Gear 2 it jumps to 21, drops to 18, and then settles at 19.
Gear 3 it jumps to 24 then settles at ~20.
Gear 4 it jumps to 25 then settles at 21.
Works - what would it take to have the boost peak and hold steady without the overshoot?
engine mods at the time of this vid were:
- P2 flashed 2004/11/5
- Works 76mm ceramic DP, 76mm resonated IP, AB, and aperture
- UR test pipe
Back to the subject of the post, above is a short (but large) mpeg1 video of my defi-link gauge playing back a WOT 'event' in gears 2, 3, 4, and briefly 5. You can clearly see the boost spike and then fall back. I don't remember where I shifted but it was probably around 6k.
Gear 2 it jumps to 21, drops to 18, and then settles at 19.
Gear 3 it jumps to 24 then settles at ~20.
Gear 4 it jumps to 25 then settles at 21.
Works - what would it take to have the boost peak and hold steady without the overshoot?
engine mods at the time of this vid were:
- P2 flashed 2004/11/5
- Works 76mm ceramic DP, 76mm resonated IP, AB, and aperture
- UR test pipe
Originally Posted by redvolution
[url]Back to the subject of the post, above is a short (but large) mpeg1 video of my defi-link gauge playing back a WOT 'event' in gears 2, 3, 4, and briefly 5. You can clearly see the boost spike and then fall back. I don't remember where I shifted but it was probably around 6k.
Gear 2 it jumps to 21, drops to 18, and then settles at 19.
Gear 3 it jumps to 24 then settles at ~20.
Gear 4 it jumps to 25 then settles at 21.
Works - what would it take to have the boost peak and hold steady without the overshoot?
engine mods at the time of this vid were:
- P2 flashed 2004/11/5
- Works 76mm ceramic DP, 76mm resonated IP, AB, and aperture
- UR test pipe
Gear 2 it jumps to 21, drops to 18, and then settles at 19.
Gear 3 it jumps to 24 then settles at ~20.
Gear 4 it jumps to 25 then settles at 21.
Works - what would it take to have the boost peak and hold steady without the overshoot?
engine mods at the time of this vid were:
- P2 flashed 2004/11/5
- Works 76mm ceramic DP, 76mm resonated IP, AB, and aperture
- UR test pipe
Originally Posted by marksae
My boost behaves similarly. I'd also like to know if this is how the boost is supposed to behave w/ the P2 and if it's safe.



