Mr2fine

I have a 06 evo 9 and turbotrix rebuilt the transmission with an extended 4th gear. It has an act 6 puck unsprung clutch with a fidanza flywheel. There is a loud clutch chatter noise but when I press on the clutch, it goes away. However when it is idling or the car is decelerating, the noise is always on. There is also from time to time as the car gets off 1st gear, a loud chalk screeching sound occurs. Also, the clutch pedal is harder to push down as compared to my other past evos. Is this something common, would a different clutch or flywheel setup erase the noise?

Chef-j

iTrader: (16)

Chatter might worst because lightweight flywheel. Also about the noise, please check my other thread. If yours is similar, i told by shop that its 6 puck disc. Im replacing that with normal disc.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...r-stutter.html

Cant help you about pedal feel. I never drive stock clutch/flywheel.

Thore

iTrader: (27)

I had a 6 puck and after destroying that, I went to a normal disk as well. I did stick with a lighten flywheel because OEM wasn't a financially viable option.

That screeching sound I used to get when I held the clutch petal down at a light for any length of time and let out to accelerate. Once I figured that out, I just would avoid leaving my foot down on clutch petal and leave it in neural at traffic lights.

I went from a Comp 6 puck with an ACT streetlite flywheel to a ACT HDSS normal disk clutch with a Fidanza flywheel. I get the chatter on occasion but it's not nearly as bad as my original setup. Hope this helps.

Mr2fine

Dam, the noise is so loud at idle and when decelerating. Does this clutch chatter damage the transmission in any way? It sounds pretty common and I think my only option is go for an oem setup to erase the noise.

sktng22

iTrader: (3)

a different clutch could make the noise go away depending on what it is but if you decide to go with an exedy twin or triple be prepared for even more noise. a sprung clutch will give you less chatter and no the chatter isnt damaging anything

Evopwnd

Has the noise always been there since after you did the clutch install? Could be a TOB issue.

Mr2fine

I had a stock transmission but after turbotrix rebuilt it with an evo 8 4th gear and installed the act 6 puck unsprung with fidanza flywheel, the noise came on. I think it might be the throw out bearing. But other than stock, are there any quiet clutch kits that will compare in power for my built 2.4 motor?

dastallion951

Its unsprung, those springs that are in a lot of clutch discs dampen vibrations and help provide smoother engagement. A different clutch with springs or twin disc would be an alternative for next time.

OZrallyracer

iTrader: (5)

If I were you, i would ditch the fidanza flywheel. I have seen and heard many cases of these things warping from getting too hot and expanding at different rates. The friction surface expands at a much faster rate than the aluminum, and will not stay flat long at all if you drive your car hard. This is most likely part of the reason why your clutch makes so much noise during idle, as the clutch disk is engaged during idle, spinning the imput shaft, but your clutch disk may not be properly/ fully engaging due to non-flat mating surface on your flywheel. This problem becomes even worse when trying to engage/ disengage the clutch or put load on the transmission, which i suspect is where most of the other noises you are hearing are coming from. I was directly told by Jon Ripple at TRE not to use this flywheel specifically due to this problem...

The screeching noise in 1st gear could be due to the six puck unsprung disc, the friction material is ceramic and is not meant to be slipped, so if you are slipping it while in traffic or putting around on the street in first gear this will happen. This is the sound of the ceramic material eating into your flwheel and pressure plate as it slips.

The combo of having a super lightweight flywheel paired with an unsprung six puck disk is the main issue with noise though. The harmonic oscillations put off by an inline four are dampened mostly by: mass of the flywheel, clutch springs, and harmonic damper on the other end of the crankshaft. You have a 5+ lb lighter flywheel than oem, no springs on a pucked-style ceramic clutch disk which grabs much harsher than organic type oem style discs, and probably don't have one of those expensive dampers that replace the stock crank pulley. So all of those harmonic oscillations produced by your motor are going directly into your transmission and will cause a ton of extra drivetrain noise in the process.

Personally, i run an act lightweight flywheel, with an un-sprung street disc clutch from competition clutch. While still lighter than stock, the act flywheel is all chromoly and will expand/ contract at the same rates, meaning it won't warp like the findanza units and will not break your bank like buying a new oem flywheel will. The un-sprung street disc I feel is the way to go, it has the carbon friction surface, smooth engagement, while still being one of the lightest clutch discs available which allows for quick, reliable shifting, even at high rpm and racing. The unsprung hub creates a lot more noise in the trans on my car as well though, on accel, decel, and during engagement/ disengagement... If you want all of the trans noises gone, get a sprung hub and u will be much happier. Comp clutch has been shown to hold over 450tq on Lucas English's car, makes like 550 hp as well on wider 4.00 gearing. If it holds on his car, I don't see why it wouldn't hold for you as long as its installed correctly. My car makes much less power, 380hp/ 360tq on bbk with mild cams and more setup for road race, but I love the street unsprung disc. Solid hub Part # is 5152-0100. Sprung disc is 5251-2100.

Good luck.