Engine Swap Now in Progress - Photos!
You may get a small squirt of fuel, the line will likely still be pressurized, but not a whole lot of gas will come out before it's de-pressurized. Just unbolt one end of the fuel rail, and wrap a rag or two around it before you pull the end off. The rag will catch any spray, and soak up any drips.
Right, I'm off the get that engine out. Pics after.
Consider my 1.6 0-60mph was 12s. I think I'm going to crap myself with the US Ralliart's tested 0-60 of 6.9s - and I'll be looking at an even faster time because I've got all the RRM NA mods. Hopefully I'd like to achieve low 6s to 60mph. Thats enough to deal with any of our UK hot-hatches!
Consider my 1.6 0-60mph was 12s. I think I'm going to crap myself with the US Ralliart's tested 0-60 of 6.9s - and I'll be looking at an even faster time because I've got all the RRM NA mods. Hopefully I'd like to achieve low 6s to 60mph. Thats enough to deal with any of our UK hot-hatches!
Well today went pretty well... Disconnected the fuel lines, bit of fuel in them which we collected in a jar. Then we unbolted the clutch housing bolts from beneath the engine. We then secured the engine with the hoist, and removed the rest of the clutch housing bolts. Then we removed the side motor mount. We then found there wasnt enough clearance to lift the engine out of the clutch housing as the clutch cover was in the way, so we unbolted that from the flywheel and lifted the engine out.
Tomorrow - we will be changing the wiring harness to the 2.4 one... removing the transmission and changing the exhaust to the RRM catback.













Tomorrow - we will be changing the wiring harness to the 2.4 one... removing the transmission and changing the exhaust to the RRM catback.













Today we did the following:
Removed Drive Axles
Removed Transmission and Clutch Housing from engine bay
Changed front motor mount to 2.4 version
Installed Throttle-By-Wire Sensor
Installed Power Steering Cooler Tube
Removed 1.6L Wiring Harness
Attempted to separated clutch housing and transmission
Next work will take place on saturday and sunday beginning with installing the 2.4 Wiring Harness, separating the clutch/tranny, combining my tranny to the new 2.4 clutch housing and then bolting it to the new engine. We will swap the stock 1.6L exhaust for the RRM Catback, and install the new ECM, oxygen sensors and then we are ready to put the new engine back in.
Heres photos from today:
Trying to release strut from control arm (I know the brembo stickers aint foolin anyone, but my next project will be real brembos! watch this space):

Throttle Sensor and PS Cooler Tube installed:

Listing tranny and clutch housing combo out.

Clutch Housing / Tranny:

Drive Axles and part of old clutch:

Changed old motor mount to new 2.4 spec one:

Trying to separate the clutch housing and tranny housing - very difficult:

Empty engine bay:

Seats removed, carpet pulled, to get at control wiring harness to remove it. It attaches to the ECM, an oxygen sensor, and 4 other plugs:

Old wiring harness removed:

Carl with the new wiring harness to go in:
Removed Drive Axles
Removed Transmission and Clutch Housing from engine bay
Changed front motor mount to 2.4 version
Installed Throttle-By-Wire Sensor
Installed Power Steering Cooler Tube
Removed 1.6L Wiring Harness
Attempted to separated clutch housing and transmission
Next work will take place on saturday and sunday beginning with installing the 2.4 Wiring Harness, separating the clutch/tranny, combining my tranny to the new 2.4 clutch housing and then bolting it to the new engine. We will swap the stock 1.6L exhaust for the RRM Catback, and install the new ECM, oxygen sensors and then we are ready to put the new engine back in.
Heres photos from today:
Trying to release strut from control arm (I know the brembo stickers aint foolin anyone, but my next project will be real brembos! watch this space):

Throttle Sensor and PS Cooler Tube installed:

Listing tranny and clutch housing combo out.

Clutch Housing / Tranny:

Drive Axles and part of old clutch:

Changed old motor mount to new 2.4 spec one:

Trying to separate the clutch housing and tranny housing - very difficult:

Empty engine bay:

Seats removed, carpet pulled, to get at control wiring harness to remove it. It attaches to the ECM, an oxygen sensor, and 4 other plugs:

Old wiring harness removed:

Carl with the new wiring harness to go in:
make note.. the crowbar does not feature in as many of the pics as it should do... pretty much every step so far has involved the crowbar in one way or another...
so if you're thinking of changing the engine in your lancer, or the gear box, or the drive axles just remember... the most important tool you can have is the crowbar, or even better still a gorillabar (litte bit longer and heavier).
we've so far managed to reduce the car to a bare shell and the hard bit now is going to be getting all the new stuff back in in the correct way.
we're also thinking of relocating some of the controls, such as the gas pedal and perhaps the break, i think they'd be better where the gear shifter is and have the gear control where the lights are!
Carl
so if you're thinking of changing the engine in your lancer, or the gear box, or the drive axles just remember... the most important tool you can have is the crowbar, or even better still a gorillabar (litte bit longer and heavier).
we've so far managed to reduce the car to a bare shell and the hard bit now is going to be getting all the new stuff back in in the correct way.
we're also thinking of relocating some of the controls, such as the gas pedal and perhaps the break, i think they'd be better where the gear shifter is and have the gear control where the lights are!
Carl
Originally Posted by solouko
make note.. the crowbar does not feature in as many of the pics as it should do... pretty much every step so far has involved the crowbar in one way or another...
so if you're thinking of changing the engine in your lancer, or the gear box, or the drive axles just remember... the most important tool you can have is the crowbar, or even better still a gorillabar (litte bit longer and heavier).
we've so far managed to reduce the car to a bare shell and the hard bit now is going to be getting all the new stuff back in in the correct way.
we're also thinking of relocating some of the controls, such as the gas pedal and perhaps the break, i think they'd be better where the gear shifter is and have the gear control where the lights are!
Carl
so if you're thinking of changing the engine in your lancer, or the gear box, or the drive axles just remember... the most important tool you can have is the crowbar, or even better still a gorillabar (litte bit longer and heavier).
we've so far managed to reduce the car to a bare shell and the hard bit now is going to be getting all the new stuff back in in the correct way.
we're also thinking of relocating some of the controls, such as the gas pedal and perhaps the break, i think they'd be better where the gear shifter is and have the gear control where the lights are!
Carl
Much simpler... get all of it on the normal side.
Okay, sorry... bad joke...Seriously, Diavlo my man your ride now looks incredibly good... and now you're also getting the muscle in too. Damn you... I won't even have any kind of advantage left anymore.

Keep udating us, this is fascinating (exept maybe the shots where you pose for the camera
j/k).BTW: I wonder how the car is gonna feel to you after the swap though... I've always felt like mine is just a tad too heavy on the front with the 2.4. I wish it came with a small turbo engine instead...

-
Today we swapped the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, installed the 2.4 Wiring Harness, installed the throttle by wire sensor and a few other random things.
We did run into a major problem however today. After looking at the transmission gears, we noticed they mounted slightly different to what is required to mount to the 2.4's clutch housing, therefore we need a 2.4 transmission.
I ordered this for $2265 from vw-auto-parts.com where I get all my new mitsu parts from - they dont usually take long. It's taken the cost of the engine swap from $10,000 to $12,000. Probably better to have the correct ratios and new gears anyhow.
We also noticed that one of the connectors on the control wiring harness is different in the interior. This is causing a bit of a headache, trying to figure out why it is different when all the other connectors were the same. It is listed as "Instrument Panel Harness to Control Harness Combination Connector". There are for of these combo connectors, the other three were the same. Odd.
Tomorrow we'll swap the exhaust to the RRM catback, and thats bout it until we get the new transaxle.
We did run into a major problem however today. After looking at the transmission gears, we noticed they mounted slightly different to what is required to mount to the 2.4's clutch housing, therefore we need a 2.4 transmission.
I ordered this for $2265 from vw-auto-parts.com where I get all my new mitsu parts from - they dont usually take long. It's taken the cost of the engine swap from $10,000 to $12,000. Probably better to have the correct ratios and new gears anyhow.
We also noticed that one of the connectors on the control wiring harness is different in the interior. This is causing a bit of a headache, trying to figure out why it is different when all the other connectors were the same. It is listed as "Instrument Panel Harness to Control Harness Combination Connector". There are for of these combo connectors, the other three were the same. Odd.
Tomorrow we'll swap the exhaust to the RRM catback, and thats bout it until we get the new transaxle.
dang sorry to hear about the 2.4 tranny, thats just more money down the drain that you could of used on something else. o well i cant wait to hear how you compare your old engine VS. the mivec. i hope you plan on going turbo, cause you have put a lot good work into you "Ralliart" i should say now.
Originally Posted by Diavlo
Today we swapped the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, installed the 2.4 Wiring Harness, installed the throttle by wire sensor and a few other random things.
We did run into a major problem however today. After looking at the transmission gears, we noticed they mounted slightly different to what is required to mount to the 2.4's clutch housing, therefore we need a 2.4 transmission.
I ordered this for $2265 from vw-auto-parts.com where I get all my new mitsu parts from - they dont usually take long. It's taken the cost of the engine swap from $10,000 to $12,000. Probably better to have the correct ratios and new gears anyhow.
We also noticed that one of the connectors on the control wiring harness is different in the interior. This is causing a bit of a headache, trying to figure out why it is different when all the other connectors were the same. It is listed as "Instrument Panel Harness to Control Harness Combination Connector". There are for of these combo connectors, the other three were the same. Odd.
Tomorrow we'll swap the exhaust to the RRM catback, and thats bout it until we get the new transaxle.
We did run into a major problem however today. After looking at the transmission gears, we noticed they mounted slightly different to what is required to mount to the 2.4's clutch housing, therefore we need a 2.4 transmission.
I ordered this for $2265 from vw-auto-parts.com where I get all my new mitsu parts from - they dont usually take long. It's taken the cost of the engine swap from $10,000 to $12,000. Probably better to have the correct ratios and new gears anyhow.
We also noticed that one of the connectors on the control wiring harness is different in the interior. This is causing a bit of a headache, trying to figure out why it is different when all the other connectors were the same. It is listed as "Instrument Panel Harness to Control Harness Combination Connector". There are for of these combo connectors, the other three were the same. Odd.
Tomorrow we'll swap the exhaust to the RRM catback, and thats bout it until we get the new transaxle.





