To be honest a huge chunk of that price has been on RRM parts and tools.

Engine - $3000
Transaxle - $2200
RRM Parts - $3000
Tools $500
Fluids - $200
Parts to Fit Engine - $3000

Roughly - thats what it takes. Today im going to try and find out why the C-108 connector wont connect to the plug I think it should connect, remove the heater assembly to see if the plug is further up behind that.

Hopefully we'll put the exhaust on too. The fuel pump is arriving on monday so I'll change that then and remove the return line.

Then its just a waiting game for the transaxle to arrive. Could be 2-3 weeks.

 

Today we got the old exhaust system off, at first we were gonna unbolt the flanges, but then we decided to use a grinder to cut it in half, after which it came off easy.

We also removed the rear seat cushion ready to change the fuel pump.

Tomorrow we'll install the catback, and the fuel pump.

Heres pics from today:

 

That photo above of the random blue plug - is the one that wont connect up to the instrument panel harness. Anyone know what that plug is for? It would really help If I knew what it was, and why it wont plug up to the instrument panel harness like all the other connectors on the new 2.4 control harness do.

It's connector C-108 by the way - if anyone knows what it does, please let me know. As far as I can tell it is cruise control stuff which my car doesnt have. However I have to wonder what the 1.6 plug was.

In the interior of the car, the engine harness splits into 3. the 2.4 one does, the 1.6 one did.

On the left is one single plug, in the middle is the ECM plugs, and on the right are the oxygen sensor/s and 3 instrument panel combo plugs.

The one that is causing problems is the left one - listed as C-108 Instrument Panel Harness and Engine Control Harness Combo Plug.


The 1.6 one has a different plug, and many more wires. The 2.4 one has a smaller plug, with a lot less wires.

 

Oh yeah BOY! power tools are for winners =D

You cant beat a grinder for feeling manly ^_^ all those sparks and molten metal it's the BEST! anyway... after trying to unblot the exhaust I thought, "if only i could cut it there..." and PING! there it was, wack a cutting disk on the grinder and hack it off in our natural ham-fisted fassion. speeking of ham-fisted-ness yet again we ended up useing the gorillabar to leaver all the rubber supporty things off, which were holding the exhaust on.

The only thing that's getting me down in the lack of hammer action, I really thinK we should be useing the hammer for far more things, I just want to beat something!

Carl

 

i am not sure what your doing here waht r u swapping in and from?

 

1.6L 4G18 to 2.4 4G69 (UK Lancer Ralliart/Sport Engine to US Lancer Ralliart Engine) For some reason in the UK a 1.6 engine is considered range-topping, and the other lancers are powered by 1.3L anaemic things.

 

All I seem to find about it is that it connects an output from the ECU to the brake light switch, which grounds the signal when you step on the brake, and then the ECU turns off the cruise control.

I'm still digging, but that's all I've found so far.

EDIT: The blue wire is the only one the 2.4L model uses, it seems. The gray, white, orange and light green wires are for the 2.0L models. You might find where it plugs in by following the wire back from the switch on the brake pedal.

 

Looking at the harness layout in the 2.4 shop manual, it describes C-108 as 11-L type connector. The plug on the instrument harness has 11 connectors, but the plug on the control harness only has 5 wires. The plug on the 1.6 wiring harness had all 11.

I do not have cruise control so perhaps this may be the difference, as it is a US 2.4 wiring harness Im using.

 

1). Cancels cruise control when you step on the brake.
2). Having no cruise control would make it pretty unimportant, I think.
3). No need. As I said, the only wire a USDM 2.4 would use it the blue one. The others are for the USDM 2.0 non-turbo.

I can't help you with the 1.6 wiring, but I'll PM you a link to the 2.4 wiring.

 

Ok, that helps a lot thanks. What I think I will do, is leave that connector un-connected when I begin testing the engine.

It doesnt seem to be important, and I'm sure if there is a problem the scan tool will pick it up. Thanks.

 

Im absolutely gobsmacked at the cost thats been added so far! ....... also blown away that its a complete DIY, masssive prop to yas over in the UK! Should wipe the smile off all those 1.4L diesels on the road :P

 

No kidding. For that $12000, he could easily buy a nice used Ralliart over here. The whole car.

 

I looked hard at importing a US or Aussie 2.4, but it seemed easier to convert it myself. Not to mention it's easier to modify the engine with it out of the bay!

 

I got the oil cooler today as well. I know this is probably overkill for this engine, but I wanted it anyway. It'll be nice to see that fan spinning through my top grille.

It's got a thermostat valve to prevent oil over-cooling, and has remote oil filter mount.

 

I just recieve the fuel pump as well, but I believe its the wrong one, so I may have to send it back.

They've sent me one with two connections on top for fuel hoses, like the 02-03 one, and i cant see the little pressure regulator that the 04-06 ones should have.