Hey D@n the turbo Outlet and housing came off a Eclipse GST, it is a T3 outlet .48 trim but the intake propeller is a Turbonetics T4 that had a bigger intake than the stock I believe the turbonetics is a .60-.63 trim but not sure I do know it spooled fast !!! It was checked before shipment for bearing play and it was ok didn't have any vertical play


As for all of you thinking about engine management I did a lot of research and also emailed a lot of companies so far I can tell you guys if running less than 5 psi and if you have the RRM N/A piggy like D@N just don't advance the timing anymore and also trow the most fuel you can when the boost kicks up, of course all of this with a wideband. I have the installation drawings for the SMT-6 perfect power it can adjust timing and fuel and serve as some other stuff if you guys are interested I can post them up here they were sent from perfect power installation support I had to email them my ECU pin out and they sent it back to me a few days later. I am now waiting for my e-manage ultimate to arrive and will do some testing with it to see if I can get it working, DO NOT buy APEXI nor blue emanage nor the SPLIT SECONDS unit from other than RRM cause they are modified to fit the R@. There are two other options calles Megasquirt and MAP2ECU but those are a little more difficult to set up and require a lot of electronic experience.

 

I will document all maps and AFR readings during my tuning as part of the DIY thread. Starting with a low amount of boost will allow me to analyze how well the ECU can accomodate the additional airflow. I will drop down to 2 or 3 psi if any of my logging indicates an issue, at least until I can get a timing controller, but I think I will be ok at more than 4 psi with no timing controller.

The biggest deciding factor in more boost for me would be the option to flash the ecu. If it's free the sky's the limit. If I need a timing controller it's gonna have to wait.

If I have the room I am planning on putting the intake behind the right foglight. The NA CAI I made was behind the left foglight, but that won't make sense now. I am just going to buy an upper pipe for an evo8 and modify it to work, and I am going with some ebay 2.5" intercooler piping.

I also plan on using some 1.5" pipe to vent the wastegate to the bend in the 2.25" downpipe I plan on making to replace the RRM piece. I will be selling this, but I have someone who is intersted in purchasing this already. Please don't pm me about this yet, I promise I will post if it goes up for sale. I put the cat in myself and with the cat the downpipe is longer than the factory downpipe. That means I had to cut a length out of the pipe between the second o2 sensor and the resonator. I am keeping the muffler, and no one wants this pos resonator(jcwhitney, just about as cheap as ebay ) I'm glad I didn't spend a lot of money on it.

I am going with a 4 way at the oil pressure sensor for my turbo feed line, oil temp, and oil pressure sensors. I have to drop the oil pan for the drain line connection.

Running the vacuum lines shouldn't be a problem. That was one of my worries, but now I know how everything works. It's much easier to understand after you see the parts and do a little research online.

I don't anticipate this taking more than two days to complete, but you never know. At least if I take three days at the end of the week I can have time to play when I am done.

 

Did you finally found out how to reflash the ECU?

I relocated my battery to the trunk and my intake was there insulated from the engine, I had exhaust wrap all over the intake pipe of the turbo for heat insulation

 

I know that you cannot reflash the ECU last time I checked we needed someone to hack into a stock one to get some more info. Have you thought about using the haltech ecu? It's probably over the budget but it really is a great option.

 

Well tthe emanage ultimate is better cause it costs around 560 $ and it lets you eliminate the MAF ( a must for turbo) and also when you initially install it if you have a wideband it has a A/F target MAP and a cable to connect the wideband ( any wideband) it starts building the maps for you in Real time and adjusting the maps automatically for that A/F you specify, it can't get better than that

 

no, it can't really get much better than that can it. Have you figured out if it will work yet?

and no, we can't flash the ecu yet. there is a thread in the ecuflash subforum though.

 

Since I am from PR and working in seattle my car is in PR I bought the engine harness and I am doing all the soldering with the manual so then when I get to PR it will be a Plug and pkay thing

 

cool man, def. post up when you confirm it's gonna work. Maybe you can make harnesses and sell those too...

 

No man I don't have the time to solder all the harness it's a good idea thou but by the time I will get it working there won't be Ralliarts without piggy or something , either way I will keep updating you guys, hey D@N my cyl head arrives this next tuesday , it feel like christmast to mee heheh

 

I'm telling ya man, I can't accumulate parts fast enough. A few more weeks and I can start!!

 

change of plans. i work for a metal distributer so getting stainless and aluminum tubing is pretty easy for me. I am going to go with 3" system for both exhaust and intake. I am going to buy a 16 ton pipe bender (press bends) which will let me do all the piping custom.

I priced everything out and I should only have to spend another 1200 for everything I need to complete this project. More overtime it's worth it though.

 

You are going to buy a press bend?? dude you are the GOD of DIY (I am jesus ) heheheh

 

not a large machine, just a pipe bender. max od of 3"

I figure if I go with 3" the press bends won't matter, and it will be cheaper to buy the material from where I work and bend it myself. I already have the welder so at this point I can do just about anything I want. The next thing I want is a press brake so I can bend sheet metal too. can probably get one good for the gauge metals for less than 200.

Anytime I start a project that requires special tools I determine whether or not I would benefit from keeping them or renting them. The pipe bender is just my latest addition

 

I priced it out at work and we have some 3" alum 1/8 wall that I can scrap out and buy as scrap. I will get 24' for 30$.

the 1/8 wall stainless 3" is around 7$ a foot, so I am going with some 1/8 wall mild steel which is 3.76/ft. I have to buy full lengths so I end up paying around 70$ for this pc. I haven't decided whether or not to pay the extra and go stainless, at this point I am trying to cut cost and hi temp paint is cheaper than stainless. not to mention that I have to have the stainless transferred in and the mild steel is in Charlotte already.

I am buying 12' of 3/8 stainless rod for the exhaust hangers. that's only 12$ or so.

I wish we sold smaller lengths of this stuff, anyone local need any pipe?

 

Well the thing is, it is always nice to be able to do the piping by yourself and also now you can do the exhaust piping too and the intercooler piping....