I spoke with thunder-rush who explained that if you use bigger injectors the stock fuel system will supply more fuel under the same MAF operations. This is because the ECU maps for injector latency don't change just because you change hardware. That means under WOT when the ECU is ignoring the O2 sensors it will flood the engine with fuel.

With the MAF in the intake and a turbo charger added the MAF will be way out of voltage range for what the ECU is expecting. To compensate you pull fuel out of the piggyback map. This accomplishes two things. One, the ECU now thinks it is operating somewhat near it's normal MAF readings. Two, the ECU is now pulling much more fuel under WOT, making your flooded engine into a power monster after some extensive tuning.

I also have an idea to richen up my partial throttle and idle AFR's, why can't I change the output signal of my wideband narrowband simulation to read narrowband voltages between 13 and 14 instead of 14 and 15? That would effectively trick the ECU into thinking it is running stoich wouldn't it? Just an idea if I see the car leaning out too much during partial throttle pulls, I don't want to change anything unless I have too.

 

Dan, Hit me up 1day before you start the car for some pointers..remember stock wrx's inj good for 6psi dont push it over that until you speak with me.. Also you can use most of the CAI tubbing for the intercooler. If crash bar is not that important to you in the future you may consider an Eb@y EVO intercooler as it fits with minor mods. Let me know anything you need..

 

awesome, I was planning on asking you more about your map - it's the only thing I am still unsure about. I will pm you later, thanks man.

I have an intercooler already, I have not spent any time at all looking at how to mount it. I figure this is one of my small problems that can be handled during installation. I am more concerned with running the intercooler piping, it's awfully crowded in there. I am getting 24' of 3" 6063 tubing from work for a substantial discount for the intercooler tubing. The couplers cost more than the tubing, if that gives you an idea

I am definitely staying under 6 psi to start, I have a small yellow spring (3.6psi) to start with. I haven't even considered a boost controller yet because I am not trying to up the boost for a while.

 

OK, you'll be fine..

 

anyone interested in preliminary totals?

At this point I have spent about 1000 on parts and tools, 250 on shipping, and 1000 on the original partial kit that started all this.

small items- fittings, hoses, gaskets, flanges, bungs, wg spring, flex pipe, t-bolt clamps.

big items- 2 mufflers, high flow cat, gauge pod and gauges.

tools- pipe bender, exhaust pipe flare tool, various other small items.

 

im doing my own aswell, but is it really necessary(sp?) to have items such as a pipe bender, - for u i think it may be applicable coz i think i read that u are getting "cheap" from work, but i think ill just buy a misc intercooler piping kit that includes like 2 90*, 2 straight, 2 45*, ects and connectors which i thing should be enough

i already got some guages, and sposedly getting wideband from a member here who was selling it, just need places (a pillar pod) to mount it - surprised at how hard it is to find for RHD vehicle.

just a few Q question if u wanna answer:
where are u sourcing parts from, ie local wreckers, local shops, ebay, net? (dont have to be specificly named places)
also what size turbo u went with?

 

mostly ebay, anplumbing.com is a good source for hose ends too.

I got the pipe bender because I have to do my exhaust, the intake and charge pipes just happened to be cheaper to buy this way than to buy an ebay kit I would have to make fit anyway.

diavlo found a RHD gauge pod, ask him.

I bought the manifold, turbo, wastegate, bov, intercooler, and evo8 fuel rail from migueralliart. The turbo is a t3/t4 hybrid, I am not sure of the specs or where it came from. It came off of another custom fab job, I am looking to modify it somewhat in order to accomplish my goals.

If you are starting from scratch you could definitely source parts from a junkyard, I would start with trying to find an evo with an aftermarket manifold on it. Cut the flange off and make one for the RA, voila - instant RA turbo manifold. unless you are building the engine you should be okay with a small turbo for some pretty decent power, a t3/t4 hybrid should be plenty of turbo for upwards of 250hp.

 

why whould i need an after market mani from evo, wouldnt a stock one work just as well?
i already paid for a t3/t4 hybrid about 8 hours ago, hopefully comes next week, but i think i need to get a diff mani to make it external wg
hopefully(in a shallow victory sort of way) i can find a wrecked evo8 ... steal some parts of it

at the start im only looking to make about 160kw/200 hp, to comply with law around here - 125kw/tonne power to weight ratio

ive managed to find a "universal" fit triple guage pod(52mm) but i dunno how it will look, might pm diavlo, or i found a custom shop near by, just cant find it again

 

I said aftermarket because it's better. I would assume a stock manifold would work just as well for our application, but I am greedy

 

Dan,

I assume you are including the price of the bender in parts and tools? How much would you say you've spent approx not including tools that the rest of us may not be able to get. I'm really interested in this project of yours and I'm considering copying you basically. I have no room or need for a bender after the build. Thanks in advance man, I really appreciate your sharing this info with us.

 

yeah dan this is awesome, i dont know why its so hard to find turbo builds, its like everyones lil secret or something ...
but yeah im gonna look for prices on a mani, to either have one custom done (and they can do the dp aswell, or find and modify an evo one(but dont know how well it will go externally wastegated)
damn i gotta stay of these boards and get some sleep ...

 

the pipe bender and flare tool are approximately $100 of the cost, although $100 of the shipping costs is for the pipe bender. I also already had a NA piggyback, which is a big portion of the cost of a turbo kit. RRM charges like 800 or so for the piggy that will control timing too.

I would say plan on spending at least 2500 to 3000 to buy everything seperate. I got lucky and got quite a few items in the partial kit that would be much more expensive seperately.

I am also doing a complete exhaust system, but I'm doing it myself so no labor and the pipe is much cheaper for me. you should keep this in mind because the stock exhaust system is really too constrictive for a turbo setup, and you can't drive the car to meineke with open exhaust pipes(well you could...)

With shipping and everything I should get out of this for less than 2500, and I could make it cheaper the second time around with the same base kit. This is a very labor intensive project when done custom though. If you don't have someplace you can have your car apart for more than a day you should consider a bolt on kit.

 

it is everyones little secret, but most of the guys on here will help you if you ask. I just want to share my experience because when I bought this car and started posting here I had a very basic knowledge of engines. Now I am turbocharging my car, and it's all because of knowledge gained here or other places on the internet.

Besides, I kind of enjoy having more DIY threads in the DIY forum then anyone else. Makes me feel like I'm giving back here.

 

Nice to see it coming along neighbor.
I may look you up when i do my piping if thats ok....

 

hey,
just been searching and found that u dont need to upgrade the fuel, it will work fine without it.
chowetime is running 10psi with stock i believe
also people recommend using the evo8 rail, wasnt to sure if 4g63 fits 4g69, but apparently people are using it:
heres a cheap one i found thats 'pretty'
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Agenc...spagenameZWD2V