Don't quote me but I have heard that Speedcorps might custom make a manifold to fit even though they do not sell them in quantity anymore. It can't hurt to go to their website and give them a call to see. However I have heard of people taking and evo manifold and welding on the flange and it has worked as far as I know.

 

don't use the flange off your header, it's too thin for a turbo manifold, and if you ever need that header again it'll be useless and it's fairly expensive to replace, you can get a 3/8 steel flange from RRE for $35...RPW out of autralia makes a 4G69 manifold, RRM makes one, turbo-kits.com makes hackish's design, but we don't know yet if they will sell those seperately, speed track racing makes the cast manifold but Hackish and i already confirmed it does not fit the 4G69 lancer, it is made only to fit the 06+ eclipse gs, we did agree that an adapter could be possibly fabricated to change the angle and position of the turbo flange, but this is not confirmed, and you should attempt this at the risk of your own wallet...i purchased the manifold, we bolted it to Hackish's spare motor, took a variety of measurements, and it's a no go...

and of course there is the do it yourself option, Log or tubular/ramhorn...the tubular designs tend to be more expensive due to the precision cutting and welding required for the collector...and the amount of material used...Hackish's design is like a mini-ram horn, with a v-band external wastegate, and looks the best in my opinion...

 

so I went ahead and bought one from ebay for an evo 8, but I'm kinda worried that the angle of the turbo flange might be wrong, but I figure I'll try it anyway. but I called RRE and they are sold out of the 4g69 flange. They said they'd call me if they got any more in, so I'll give it a week or so then i might end up buying it from RRM.

I started pre-assembling to get a feel of how everything will go together and I found that I'm missing some of those bolts that the oil/water lines go on with. The ones that are Hollow and have the hole through the side. fairly sure its the oil lines that I'm missing (it's the silver ones, or the larger ones if they arent the same color as your's, but I don't know what they're called and wondered if you knew a good place to get them?

 

if you have a spare exhaust manifold gasket, you may be able to have one made somewhat locally...i know just down the street from me, there's a water-jet cutting place i almost, contacted them to make some so i could start making manifolds but the log is not an attractive design...and it's easy to make yourself...not worth the trouble, really, most people that say they're going to do this don't...i'm just going to do it, for the fun of it really...and to beat stock cobalt ss's and G35's at the track...no one in particular

 

I actually lol'd at this. It sounds like something I would say haha.

So you did it for the cost effectiveness, since you could mostly do it yourself/with a "friend" but for the average joe like myself would it be worth while to use the log? instead of the evo mani Frankensteined with our flange?

 

if you can frankenstein any manifold that will work on a 4G69 flange that should suffice, the main problem is space, there isn't a lot of it...i used an OEM O2 housing which affected the design of the manifold, where as it would be ideal to have a manifold that positioned the turbo, so that the compressor housing sits in between the two rad fans...my O2 housing did no allow for this, so i basically have about a half inch gap front and back between the starter heat shield and the driver side rad fan shroud, and my wastegate actuator sits in between the front motor mount and clutch slave cylinder...it's tight...

The log was cost effective and simple to fabricate from scratch...if you're modifying a tubular manifold, as long as you can get one for around $100, it should be almost as cost effective, but you have the benefit of a more efficient design, the down side is the probability of cracking...I used VERY heavy steel for mine, if it cracks, hell will be frozen...

 

This is the one I got. The first thing I noticed when it got here was that the flange for the turbo was angled outward toward the radiator a little. but from what I saw with yours and Hackish's was that they were more level, like perpendicular to the radiator.

I also got my BOV in the mail today. I ordered the HKS SSQV 4, I got the universal one with the plain round flange fitting (I guess so it can be welded into any IC pipe). I've been reading about the re-circulation adapter and wondered if you thought it would be worth while to do this, or if VTA is fine? I read that venting to atmosphere can cause it to run really rich and stall/backfire and that re-circulating solves this, but I was reading all this in the EVO forum and didn't know if it would apply to us.

 

venting to atmosphere will **** up your MAF readings, unless you put the MAF after the BOV, but then the MAF is constantly being subjected to hotter faster moving, higher pressure air...doesn't seem to be a good idea to me, that and it may affect tuning as well, Hackish could answer this better than me...the other option is speed density, but that's up to Hackish whether he's going to incorporate something like that into his software, cause you basically, remove the MAF entirely, and there's no one else going to be making tuning software for us that will have advanced options like that....our MAF isn't really restrictive, and you don't need speed density just so you can have a loud ricey blow off off valave, it's more for gaining 50whp @ 6000rpm under 40psi boost, lol! not worth it for us, just recirculate your BOV.

you're hacking an evo manifold anyways, while you're at it, you can change the angle of the turbo flange as well...actually the RRE/RRM flanges have very large holes, it would actually be wise to have a flange made if you can, that way you can have the ports made so the tubing of the manifold fits snuggly in the flange for added strength...just take your exhaust manifold gasket a trace it onto a piece of paper as accurately as possible, but give the shop the proper diameter of the exhaust ports..

 

How thick would you recommend making the flange? and when you say to change the angle of the turbo flange would you recommend changing the angle at the turbo side or at the engine side?

I also noticed on the turbo that I got, on one side of it there is what looks like a wastegate fitting. I'll post a pic in the morning, but it seems odd to me because it has the internal wastegate built in and there isn't like a plug or anything over it. It actually looks like it had been being used.

 

my flange is 3/8"...1/2" is probably good, but 3/8 gives you a bit more "meat" to weld to..

it's a stock turbo, the internal wastegate is just a flapper valve that is externally controlled by a wastegate actuator...i'll take pictures of mine here in a sec, and edit post...

 

I found a stock evo intercooler with piping for like 150, would it be worth picking up instead of a generic universal one off ebay?

and what do you think about the AEM tru boost gauge/controller?

 

intercooler depends on if it will fit behind your bumbper, the piping may or may not work, and you don't need a boost controller if you can get a wastegate that opens at the pressure you want to run...

 

awesome, so since the turbo is gated at 11.5 and i'm wanting to max at that for now that's perfect. Later on when I increase the boost would you recommend it? I've looked at some reviews and saw that people have a lot of problems with it being really complicated in programming.

Do you know what size we can fit behind our bumper, from what I've been able to measure it's something around like 26L x 6H x 3D. The depth is what worries me, I've seen guys putting 3 inch, but there was a post i saw before that someone said that 2.75 is the deepest. I'm also wanting to keep my fog lights, preferably in stock housings, but whatever it takes. I've been creeping on your thread watching your progress with the intercooler too

 

verify the actuator opens at 11.5 psi, you can do this by connecting a vacuum line from an air compressor to the actuator, be sure to set the regulator below 10psi before hooking it up, and then gradually increase until the actuator arm starts to move...

electronic boost controllers i have no experience with, i would assume they come with their own software and some way to interface with the computer. if you need a boost controller to increase boost, you'll need to spend half the value of you car building the motor, which to me is stupid, but it's your car, do whatever you want.

i can tell you right now, your stock fog light housings won't fit with a front mount intercooler and piping that is 2.5 inches or greater...i took some measurements with mine, and with some modifications to the fog light housing i will be able to keep my stock fogs, but my intercooler is quite small...also if your end tank inlet and outlet point straight out from the core, you'll be limited in width, but if you got one with 90 degree inlet/oulet, you may be able to use a wider core...i don't know, for sure, you'll have to take some measurements with the bumper on and off to figure it out...

I'll be working with the intercooler a little bit more in the coming weeks, though i'll most likely tackle the exhaust first as that plays a major role in the design of my lower intercooler pipe.

here's the pics i promised, your turbo should be similar...my wastegate port has some cracks, but it's not that bad, for a 14b it's in excellent condition...

 

the tru boost is a manual boost control i thought. oh well, I see what you mean though lol.