i did the phelonic spacer at the same time as the camgear manifold exhaust system motormounts suspension mods, etc. so couldnt tell you how long it was for just that.

torque damper was sweet motor mounts do a better job but the damper is a little cheaper easier to install (10min) and is almost as good.

the cam gear didnt help me at all. now that i've done the camshaft i want to get my hands on a wideband, tune the AFR and then start playing with the camgear again since it supposedly is alot more effective once the camshaft is upgraded.

 

Does the torque dampener revive lose torque would you say? Anyone out there?

Yes, the Cam gears will be more effective once the camshaft is upgraded.

 

The dampener will help you burn more rubber. lol

 

Why is that? lol

 

Excellent news on the new camshaft.... am I reading this correctly that you bought the new cam shaft and sending your stock one back to RRM? so that would mean that these are regrind cam shafts...

 

Is there a core charge on these camshafts?

They're regrind, is that a good or bad thing Christine?

 

By eliminating wheel hop more torque will find its way to the pavement, causing more wheelspin, specially with the stock rubbers

 

no core charge at all. and ive heard of pluses and minuses with regrinds.

 

So to order a Camshaft you must return the stock camshaft?

 

I think it is a personal choice and my personal choice for my car is to not have a regrind in my car reasons being isthat in most instances metal has to be added to the existing cam shaft lobes... the problem with this is that when a cam is first made (factory) it comes from a blank piece of matel bar and is then shaped to the correct dimensions or it is poured into a mold either way as tohow it is made the important thing here is that the metal has been heated to a certain tempreture which gives you a consistancy

Now with a regrind while this saves on money to make there will need to be metal added to the original shaft which is done by welding it on and then grinding it into the desired profile... the problem here is that the added metal needs to be added to the cam at the exact same temp as the original was made so that it is fused together as a single piece... if it is not you may at some time depending on how hot the added metal was when added can delaminate or fall off or chip/splinter when under stress from inside the engine from heat and constant wear...

Again it is a personal choice most will say that the occurance is not often enough for this to be a problem but again as a personal choice I would prefer an original blank and have mine made out of that.

 

Didn't you just ask the same exact question and got the answer in the post right above yours? No core charge = no part needed to return.

 

not at all. if you want to know more call Rob, I dont know if the shop will be open the next few days but leave a message i guess.

 

why wont the job be open??? been off the forums for about a week im working 2 jobs.... wheres RRM at?

 

It's Easter weekend.

 

o0o. Good reason to vaca. back by monday than?