Thanks buddy , beers are on me and I hope we can all learn from each other. I don't like when people keep secrets. People like us Mitsubishi Ralliart owners are special and we should all unite because in the end we ALL serve a few purposes ; BEAT THE HELL OUT OF HONDAS ( I HATE EM ) , MEET GIRLS AND MAKE OUT WITH THEM IN OUR CARS (a must if you haven't tried), LEARN HOW TO DO STUFF BY YOURSELF and finally my favorite AT THE END OF THE DAY WHEN YOU HAVE JUST INSTALLED OR DO SOMETHING TO THE CAR GRAB A BEER WITH A FRIEND OR GF AND GET DRUNK>...

 

Palabras con sabiduria!!!

 

How did you know I am from PR

 

Well the head will soon be finished along with the intake manifold .. but I need some info first for the camshaft

OHV lifter type? Flat Tappet, Roller Tappet, Hydraulic, Mechanical which one?
Valve spring spring rate?
Installed ht.?
Bind Ht.?
Total Duration of the stock CAM?
Duration @ .050"?
Lift ?
Centerline?

Any help will be strongly appreciated.

 

I believe you have some parts to find some of this information.
It is a mechanical, not hydraulic. I know this because we need to adjust valvelash. Sound right?
If you look at the tappets when you removed them from your assembly, you would see wheels on the bottom if they are the roller type. I would believe they are not since this is a production line non-performance vehicle.
My GUESS is that they are flat mechanical tappets.
~Drew

 

Yes you are right, It seems that the camshaft thing will be completed. The guy told me I could make the power band go like this:
3.5k-7.5k will increse the HP in this range and leave the idle alone. Up to 7.5 because I used coatings for the springs and I used cryogenics too and because my valves are ceramic coated they should handle the load just fine.
3.5-9K THIS IS INSANE but the guy told me it could be done if I completely upgrade the valvetrain.


I think I will go with the 3.5k-7.5 k range because our engine seems strong during that range.... I dont want to turn it into a HONDA with the high REVS and I honestly dont want to spend 700 more in the valvetrain...

 

I agree, with a 7.5k redline you should outrun just about anything out there, even bulletproof built honduhs

 

Well I hope everything will end up fine I will try to finish this head by the end of this week if not the other along with the camshaft and intake manifold. Now lets talk about power gains here.

Since my car in PR is bare stock (not even an intake cause I removed everything before coming to the US) I will intall these mods once I get back home.
1-CYl HEAD (ported + ceramic)
2- Camshaft (modded) NEW REDLINE 7500RPM
3- Intake Manifold (ported + ceramic) with EGR delete
4- Injen CAI
5- 2nd SMT-6 (this time I will do a write up)
6- Enlightenned Stock Flywheel + stage 1 or 3 CLUTCH (not sure still deciding)
7- 1-3/4 inch runners 4-1 Custom Header
8- 2.5 inch full exhaust with HF cat resonator and mufflerALL MAGNAFLOW
9- UD PULLEY (RRM)
10- Throttle Body (ported) + coolant lines delete


I WILL BE RUNNING 93 OCTANE ++ and also advance timing if I can

Now I Wanna hear your predictions ..... hehehe the one closer wins (maybe I will coat the winner's manifold in ceramic heheh e)

 

220WHP/240TQ horsepower at 6800RPM and TQ at 5000.

 

Anyone else?!! BTW for the record this is the list
Dan - 220WHP/240TQ horsepower at 6800RPM and TQ at 5000.

 

Che - 240WHP/240TQ horsepower at 6700RPM and TQ at 5200

 

242HP/240TQ

 

I would say 230-250 Range on HP/ more TQ than HP and HP at 7k+ and TQ at 6k+ any ways best NA RA...right now....*or highest numbers*

 

come on man, you have to be more precise than that or you can't play

 

Dan - 220WHP/240TQ horsepower at 6800RPM and TQ at 5000.
Che - 240WHP/240TQ horsepower at 6700RPM and TQ at 5200
PR_M - 242HP/240TQ
Blitz - 230-250, HP at 7k+ and TQ at 6k+