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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

04 5-speed RA trans question

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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:00 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by nekkidlad
looked on mitsubishiparts.net for TOB pricing....
does anybody know what's ntn or nsk?

they're priced differently, plus i wouldn't want to get the wrong part...

NTN and NSK are just the brand names. Either will fit.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:18 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by 2006_RA
NTN and NSK are just the brand names. Either will fit.
is one better than the other..?
or are they both about the same qualitywise?

Last edited by nekkidlad; Mar 26, 2013 at 10:37 AM.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:36 AM
  #63  
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From: LEXINGTON, KY
Originally Posted by lanzerralliart
Who told you it takes a week to cure ? I removed ,filled ,cured ,and installed my set within 24 hours.
i just figured it'd take that long to "propely dry/cure"...
but if it only takes basically overnight then maybe i WILL do them myself...i'll probably have the car down for ~3-4 days...that's more than enough time(and saves me alot im sure...it's $180 for the pair from RRM)
what did u use to solidify them and where can i get it..?
i think i read before somewhere it's some kind of epoxy...(but what kind and where do i get it?)

we "stay open late" only mondays and thursdays...(sales does not service...)
but we can work till 9pm if needed on those days, rather than only 5:30-6pm tues/wed/fri(since the sales manager is still here until at least 9pm if not later)...
so i figured i'd take it out one day(mon/thur), pass the trans and rebuild kit to the guy who's rebuilding it the same or next day(a coworker who already rebuilds tranmissions as a side business) he'd do it in the 2 days or so, then put it all back in on the next late day(next mon/thur)...

hopefully it warms up enough by then so i can ride my bike to/from work in the meantime
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 11:40 AM
  #64  
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From: Ottawa
Originally Posted by nekkidlad
is one better than the other..?
or are they both about the same qualitywise?
I dont know that one is better than the other, they were the two OEM suppliers.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 12:20 PM
  #65  
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Google flexane , the 80 is stiff enough, the 94 is even stiffer if you want that. Its made by devcon , one pound ,which will be more than enough is about 40 bucks shipped.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 12:20 PM
  #66  
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Google flexane , the 80 is stiff enough, the 94 is even stiffer if you want that. Its made by devcon , one pound ,which will be more than enough is about 40 bucks shipped.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 02:15 PM
  #67  
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haha...i was able to find grainger industrial supply sells it...(there's one nextdoor to my work...lol)
they sell the 1lb putty for ~$73...maybe i'll just drive over and pick it up when i need it...and save myself the shipping

thanks...like i said i'm not trying to go extreme on the car...
so i'll stick with 80...if u say 94 is stiffer, i don't need it...

Last edited by nekkidlad; Mar 26, 2013 at 02:29 PM.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 02:24 PM
  #68  
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I used 3m Windo-Weld Urethane to solidify my rear motor mount. Found some at Autozone or Napa. Its pretty awesome! Very easy to use. And doesnt take too long to cure. It was only like $20 I think...
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 10:17 PM
  #69  
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my window weld lasted not much more than a year...

and what's the torque capacity on the fx-100?
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 05:14 AM
  #70  
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From: LEXINGTON, KY
Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
and what's the torque capacity on the fx-100?
the clutchmasters website doesn't state the tq capacity, but it claims 70% over "stock holding capacity"...
so assuming they mean "stock holding capacity" is 162bhp and 162ft/lb(looked up the new car specs online...assuming they're correct) as in a showroom new 04 RA....that would put it somewhere in the ~275ft/lb range...

162ft/lb x 1.7 = 275ft/lb
(assuming that's correct)

also just clarifying, wich im assuming ill have to do anyway...
for stiffening/solidifying the mounts, clean them thoroughly....and that's it?
or would it possibly be better if i scuffed them up w/ maybe some sandpaper for "better adhesion"....or drill a few holes or cut some notches or sumn to make the urethane not just "pop out as easy" and give it again "better adhesion" as well as more surface area...?
or am i just overthinking it and a good cleaning is good enough?

Last edited by nekkidlad; Mar 27, 2013 at 05:36 AM.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 06:14 AM
  #71  
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I ran the calc a few years back the stock holding capacity is slightly north of 200ft. lbs.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 07:01 AM
  #72  
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Remember there was a guy that had the stick clutch just starting to slip at the 300whp range.

My oem original clutch has held up since 2005 , although its on its way out now. I sprayed a 115 wet shots a nitrous at the track it would start to slip after the 2nd run which isn't a big deal given that's about as many runs as I could get in at the track anyway. I haven't sprayed it for a few years though.

That oem one was a tough mother****er , but I got the fx 200 this time around. I figure I won't have to change that sucker for a solid 10 years (knocks on wood)
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 07:41 AM
  #73  
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From: LEXINGTON, KY
Originally Posted by lanzerralliart
Remember there was a guy that had the stick clutch just starting to slip at the 300whp range.

My oem original clutch has held up since 2005 , although its on its way out now. I sprayed a 115 wet shots a nitrous at the track it would start to slip after the 2nd run which isn't a big deal given that's about as many runs as I could get in at the track anyway. I haven't sprayed it for a few years though.

That oem one was a tough mother****er , but I got the fx 200 this time around. I figure I won't have to change that sucker for a solid 10 years (knocks on wood)

i'm 90% sure my clutch is OE, and mine's an 04(03 if you consider the build date) and ive got ~145kmi on the clock...never really beat on it tho...and the clutch is holding fine, no slipping...
i figure since i have to take it off anyway for the trans job, i'll replace it while it's off, and try to upgrade it slightly without getting something expensive i dont need...
i plan on staying N/A and having ~200whp at most and that may be in 5yrs+, if i even ever get close to that...since i dont plan on getting the manifold or head ported, lightweight flywheel, no2, or caming....
the most i'll probably ever get from the car is closer to ~180whp..(assuming i start at the 162bhp OE range...wich obviously it's not there after almost 10 years of use)
i'd like to keep it in the fun DD range...not the track monster range...
if i spend more $ on mods it'll likely be just suspension and exhaust...and probably a reflash sometime in the far future...mostly i just want the car to be fixed, and rid of noises and such(either from powertrain, chassis or suspension)...
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 10:23 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by nekkidlad
is one better than the other..?
or are they both about the same qualitywise?
nsk are a much better ebaring then ntn, but ntn are still a good bearing as well,
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 10:26 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by nekkidlad
I've seen more 2013 Vipers last month than i've ever seen RA's...
(theres 3 test vipers w/ manufacturer plates around where i drive...a red one, a yellow one and a blue/white striped one)

they look crazy awesome at night...specially when u dont know what it is and u'r like "holy crap wtf is that!?!?!?..."*all u see is led tails zipping by and hear the exhaust*
i see more gallardos, Ferrari even Maserati in Toronto then i see of our gen ralliart i love it, best part is wehn they check out my car :P
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