04 5-speed RA trans question
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From: LEXINGTON, KY
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but if it only takes basically overnight then maybe i WILL do them myself...i'll probably have the car down for ~3-4 days...that's more than enough time(and saves me alot im sure...it's $180 for the pair from RRM)
what did u use to solidify them and where can i get it..?
i think i read before somewhere it's some kind of epoxy...(but what kind and where do i get it?)
we "stay open late" only mondays and thursdays...(sales does not service...)
but we can work till 9pm if needed on those days, rather than only 5:30-6pm tues/wed/fri(since the sales manager is still here until at least 9pm if not later)...
so i figured i'd take it out one day(mon/thur), pass the trans and rebuild kit to the guy who's rebuilding it the same or next day(a coworker who already rebuilds tranmissions as a side business) he'd do it in the 2 days or so, then put it all back in on the next late day(next mon/thur)...
hopefully it warms up enough by then so i can ride my bike to/from work in the meantime
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haha...i was able to find grainger industrial supply sells it...(there's one nextdoor to my work...lol)
they sell the 1lb putty for ~$73...maybe i'll just drive over and pick it up when i need it...and save myself the shipping
thanks...like i said i'm not trying to go extreme on the car...
so i'll stick with 80...if u say 94 is stiffer, i don't need it...
they sell the 1lb putty for ~$73...maybe i'll just drive over and pick it up when i need it...and save myself the shipping
thanks...like i said i'm not trying to go extreme on the car...
so i'll stick with 80...if u say 94 is stiffer, i don't need it...
Last edited by nekkidlad; Mar 26, 2013 at 02:29 PM.
I used 3m Windo-Weld Urethane to solidify my rear motor mount. Found some at Autozone or Napa. Its pretty awesome! Very easy to use. And doesnt take too long to cure. It was only like $20 I think...
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the clutchmasters website doesn't state the tq capacity, but it claims 70% over "stock holding capacity"...
so assuming they mean "stock holding capacity" is 162bhp and 162ft/lb(looked up the new car specs online...assuming they're correct) as in a showroom new 04 RA....that would put it somewhere in the ~275ft/lb range...
162ft/lb x 1.7 = 275ft/lb
(assuming that's correct)
also just clarifying, wich im assuming ill have to do anyway...
for stiffening/solidifying the mounts, clean them thoroughly....and that's it?
or would it possibly be better if i scuffed them up w/ maybe some sandpaper for "better adhesion"....or drill a few holes or cut some notches or sumn to make the urethane not just "pop out as easy" and give it again "better adhesion" as well as more surface area...?
or am i just overthinking it and a good cleaning is good enough?
so assuming they mean "stock holding capacity" is 162bhp and 162ft/lb(looked up the new car specs online...assuming they're correct) as in a showroom new 04 RA....that would put it somewhere in the ~275ft/lb range...
162ft/lb x 1.7 = 275ft/lb
(assuming that's correct)
also just clarifying, wich im assuming ill have to do anyway...
for stiffening/solidifying the mounts, clean them thoroughly....and that's it?
or would it possibly be better if i scuffed them up w/ maybe some sandpaper for "better adhesion"....or drill a few holes or cut some notches or sumn to make the urethane not just "pop out as easy" and give it again "better adhesion" as well as more surface area...?
or am i just overthinking it and a good cleaning is good enough?
Last edited by nekkidlad; Mar 27, 2013 at 05:36 AM.
Remember there was a guy that had the stick clutch just starting to slip at the 300whp range.
My oem original clutch has held up since 2005 , although its on its way out now. I sprayed a 115 wet shots a nitrous at the track it would start to slip after the 2nd run which isn't a big deal given that's about as many runs as I could get in at the track anyway. I haven't sprayed it for a few years though.
That oem one was a tough mother****er , but I got the fx 200 this time around. I figure I won't have to change that sucker for a solid 10 years (knocks on wood)
My oem original clutch has held up since 2005 , although its on its way out now. I sprayed a 115 wet shots a nitrous at the track it would start to slip after the 2nd run which isn't a big deal given that's about as many runs as I could get in at the track anyway. I haven't sprayed it for a few years though.
That oem one was a tough mother****er , but I got the fx 200 this time around. I figure I won't have to change that sucker for a solid 10 years (knocks on wood)
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Remember there was a guy that had the stick clutch just starting to slip at the 300whp range.
My oem original clutch has held up since 2005 , although its on its way out now. I sprayed a 115 wet shots a nitrous at the track it would start to slip after the 2nd run which isn't a big deal given that's about as many runs as I could get in at the track anyway. I haven't sprayed it for a few years though.
That oem one was a tough mother****er , but I got the fx 200 this time around. I figure I won't have to change that sucker for a solid 10 years (knocks on wood)
My oem original clutch has held up since 2005 , although its on its way out now. I sprayed a 115 wet shots a nitrous at the track it would start to slip after the 2nd run which isn't a big deal given that's about as many runs as I could get in at the track anyway. I haven't sprayed it for a few years though.
That oem one was a tough mother****er , but I got the fx 200 this time around. I figure I won't have to change that sucker for a solid 10 years (knocks on wood)

i'm 90% sure my clutch is OE, and mine's an 04(03 if you consider the build date) and ive got ~145kmi on the clock...never really beat on it tho...and the clutch is holding fine, no slipping...
i figure since i have to take it off anyway for the trans job, i'll replace it while it's off, and try to upgrade it slightly without getting something expensive i dont need...
i plan on staying N/A and having ~200whp at most and that may be in 5yrs+, if i even ever get close to that...since i dont plan on getting the manifold or head ported, lightweight flywheel, no2, or caming....
the most i'll probably ever get from the car is closer to ~180whp..(assuming i start at the 162bhp OE range...wich obviously it's not there after almost 10 years of use)
i'd like to keep it in the fun DD range...not the track monster range...
if i spend more $ on mods it'll likely be just suspension and exhaust...and probably a reflash sometime in the far future...mostly i just want the car to be fixed, and rid of noises and such(either from powertrain, chassis or suspension)...
I've seen more 2013 Vipers last month than i've ever seen RA's...
(theres 3 test vipers w/ manufacturer plates around where i drive...a red one, a yellow one and a blue/white striped one)
they look crazy awesome at night...specially when u dont know what it is and u'r like "holy crap wtf is that!?!?!?..."*all u see is led tails zipping by and hear the exhaust*

(theres 3 test vipers w/ manufacturer plates around where i drive...a red one, a yellow one and a blue/white striped one)
they look crazy awesome at night...specially when u dont know what it is and u'r like "holy crap wtf is that!?!?!?..."*all u see is led tails zipping by and hear the exhaust*








