Unless this guy is a tech, or has alot of money and doesnt care to screw up his ride, always go by the repair manual. When in doubt refer to the manual! It's correct and informative, and you dont have to rely on some newbie wanna be tech's wrong information.
And I as I read the updated info on this tread....I bet you wish you bought a repair manual.

They can be purchased on Ebay for like 5 bucks. I got mine for the evo on cd.

 

well for a quick replacement you could go to a napa and get a grade 8 bolt or you could go to the stealership and get the oem bolt.....

 

cool,
i might leave the lancer off the road for a while...
might have to go with the golf for a little bit... no ac... oh crap.

 

The manual has little on valve lash... but it is still a must if you plan on doing things yourself. There is a massive how to on this not sure how he missed it. Our own tech MR.MYSikjiwagjae did it up.

 

i did read it though... just dont know what i did wrong...

 

Did you double check them after doing them? I triple checked mine..... it took me so long the first time I only managed to get the exhaust side done. The intake side was a real PITA! I really hope your missing bolt didn't drop in ......

 

bolt definately didnt drop in.
it fell behind the engine somewhere... thats what blows my mind...
and well, the directions dont really give me all that much info on how much wiggle room the feeler gauge needs... did you have to pull on it some to get it out?

 

There should be a slight drag on the feeler, but it should pull out easily.


Yes, you should have done 1 and 3, turned, then done 2 and 4. It's more than that, though. It's 1 and 3 intake and 2 and 4 exhaust, turn, then 1 and 3 exhaust and 2 and 4 intake.

The 8th grade movie projector sound is because your valve lash is now way off.

 

well i took it to hockey, made it back, still makes the same sound.
You think it was off now? should have heard it after the first round...

ok, so that i KNOW i have this **** 100% (hope someone tells me before 10am tomorrow, EST, when i plan on trying a third and final time before i just break down and cry then take it to the stealership on monday.

phase one

Take car out, drive for 20-40 mins,
pull into garage and turn the wheel all the way to the right

phase two

open the hood and dismantle the engine, 3 case cover screws, 2 fuel rail screw, 4 bold screws, 6 (5 for me for now ), 2 hoses, unplug and remove coils, unplug all electrical plugs, and finally take top half of block, place somewhere safe.

phase three

plop my fat *** down by the front passenger wheel and align my mark on my pulley with the "T" on the engine block (man that mark saves time and stress),
****THIS IS WHERE I GOT CONFUSED*****
Now i SHAKE/JIGGLE the EXHAUST rockers 1 and 4 along with their INTAKE rockers, and whichever one (of 1 or 4) that both sides shake, you need to do exhaust for that rockers valves.
So say rocker 1 is the rocker that both sides jiggle, then i have to adjust the valves for exhaust 1 and 3 as well as intake 2 and 4?

to adjust, use 10mm socket or 10mm box wrench and loosen the nut, unscrew the timing screw a turn or so. Place appropriate feeler gauge under the screw, screw the screw onto the feeler guage enough that you feel tension while removing the feeler but not so much that you have to force it out from under the screw, repeat for intake side after exhaust.

phase four

go back to passenger front wheel, turn the pulley one full rotation, repeat phase 3 but with exhaust 2 and 4 as well as intakes 1 and 3.


phase five

re-assemble your baby, test drive and hope to god it doesnt sound like a film projector.

is this all correct?

 

Sounds like you should have better results this time around.

 

I think the problem you were having is that you just weren't getting the engine hot enough. Sounds like this time you'll get it. Also, for people with the RRM/Joe's UDP, figuring out timing on it is really easy. There's a keyhole between two of the pulley mounting bolts. If you put that keyhole at 3 o'clock, you'll be at TDC. You can verify this by wiggling the rockers.

 

3 o clock?
are you sure its not more 2 o clock ish?i put a mark on the pulley to that keyhole.
but the guys at RRM said that should be what i am lining up...

edit. i mean i lined the keyhole with the "T" on the block...

 

The keyhole is NOT the timing mark. I've circled the keyhole in the attached picture. If you put that keyhole at 3 o'clock, then the timing mark would be lined up at TDC, which is around 2 o'clock-ish. The keyhole and timing mark are not at the same place on the pulley. Look at your stock pulley and where the keyhole is compared to the timing notches on the edge of the pulley, and you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

mcmastercarr.com has some very long ones 12 inchers, i use them at work they are great

 

...what attatched picture?