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Fuego's Project Car!

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Old Jan 30, 2012, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TurtleRA
You can just plug the 2.5mm straight into your tactrix, this is me assuming you have one. Then you can standalone log everything you want. If you don't have a tactrix, then you have to go the other method, serial to usb, which would then plug into your laptop and then log with evoscan etc....Hope this clears some of it up.
Thanks for the help!

Yes it does, and yes I have a tactrix. The other part was this "2.5mm stereo jack and solder it onto the serial output of the LC-1"? what pin do I solder it to?
Old Jan 30, 2012, 02:52 PM
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Well this is the confusing bit, sort of. On the 2.5mm jack there are 3 points of contact. You need to solder the ground write to the part closest to the middle of the jack. The serial wire goes on the middle connection point. The easiest is to google an image of a stereo jack to get a better idea of what I mean. The hardest part is soldering the wire on to the tiny 2.5mm jack. There is also an image on the wiki page for stand alone logging if that also helps. I'm sure this is all clear as mud now.
Old Jan 31, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Fuego
Body Kit...

Ok, here is a new one i'm looking at
http://www.scorpionkits.com/gallery3...g2_itemId=4137
Thoughts. I think I like this more than the last one I posted. I already emailed them waiting for information on it!
So this is what I was told.
"Hello,
The pirce for the d-sport bodykits is usd1850 and without shipment
cost.That is include front bumper,front ganard,front fender,side
skirt,rear fender,rear bumper.The bodykits is hard to install,especially
rear fender.
Thank you
wklim"

Just to expensive and it's hard to install. Then who knows how much to ship!!! I think i'm going with the one from accolade. MITSUBISHI LANCER 2008 - 2011 GTR BODY KIT CONVERSION is GTR kit is USD 1450. Shipped to the house.

Originally Posted by TurtleRA
Well this is the confusing bit, sort of. On the 2.5mm jack there are 3 points of contact. You need to solder the ground write to the part closest to the middle of the jack. The serial wire goes on the middle connection point. The easiest is to google an image of a stereo jack to get a better idea of what I mean. The hardest part is soldering the wire on to the tiny 2.5mm jack. There is also an image on the wiki page for stand alone logging if that also helps. I'm sure this is all clear as mud now.

Great!
I found it! http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...ad.php?t=21201
Same as a Camera one.
http://www.carlmcmillan.com/serial_cable_pinout.htm
http://www.db9-pinout.com/

Now it's easy to do. Going to check out that radio shack one since It's close to the house. Thanks everyone for the help on this. Hopefully I can log this weekend!

Last edited by Fuego; Feb 8, 2012 at 09:45 AM.
Old Jan 31, 2012, 03:21 PM
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So, after along talk with someone at driven by style (Craig) this is what I found out. The front bumper for a EVO X will fit our car as long as we get the EXO X fenders. Now for the Rear, you need one for the lancer!!! So if you can find a good rear bumper that will work then you can get and EVO X front bumper and Fenders. If you go to their website he said this would work.

2008-2012 Mitsubishi Evolution X GT Concept Fenders : 104641
2008-2012 Mitsubishi Evolution X GT Concept Kit : 104648
2008-2011 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X Look Rear Bumper: 106955

Or Match is with the Rear Bumper setup of this:
http://www.body-kit.com/lan_08xgtr.html

Then I just need to get any side skirts I like. It's great that now I have more options.

Just thought I would share what I found! I really like how aggressive that fron bumper looks!!!

Last edited by Fuego; Feb 8, 2012 at 09:45 AM.
Old Jan 31, 2012, 05:39 PM
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Well you don't need a serial cable at all, you can just go to radio shack and get a 2.5mm stereo jack. For me, I had an old cell phone headset that I did not use any more and it had a 2.5mm stereo jack. So I just removed the end and soldered on my own wires, then used a butt connector to the wideband serial output and just grounded the other wire to the chassis. Then you just plug it into your tactrix when ever you want to log. Also, from your links, you want to solder the wire to the serial connection on the middle (ring), and the ground goes to the base (sleeve). Hope this clears it all up.

Last edited by TurtleRA; Jan 31, 2012 at 05:43 PM. Reason: info added
Old Feb 1, 2012, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by TurtleRA
Well you don't need a serial cable at all, you can just go to radio shack and get a 2.5mm stereo jack. For me, I had an old cell phone headset that I did not use any more and it had a 2.5mm stereo jack. So I just removed the end and soldered on my own wires, then used a butt connector to the wideband serial output and just grounded the other wire to the chassis. Then you just plug it into your tactrix when ever you want to log. Also, from your links, you want to solder the wire to the serial connection on the middle (ring), and the ground goes to the base (sleeve). Hope this clears it all up.

What I just realized is that with the http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?pag...mart&Itemid=53
I don't need a serial adaptor, which is the one I have. Just use a 2.5mm on both ends, and connect it to the Tactrix and bam ready to rock and roll! Thanks for all the help guys!

Last edited by Fuego; Feb 1, 2012 at 07:42 AM.
Old Feb 8, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Bodykit Update!

I working with Driven by Style on this with Craig. I think the outcome it going to be sweet! It will be a wide body kit but it's pieces from 3 different kits to make it work. Working with a body shop, insurance, and Craig on this. My current kit is fully damaged (and the body has hail damaged, ugh) and the insurance is covering to get it fixed(guess it all is going to work out at then end) and I will be covering the difference to get what I want. Once I have more info, I will post so you can see what the plans are for the body kit.

Last edited by Fuego; Feb 9, 2012 at 10:23 AM.
Old Feb 9, 2012, 07:02 PM
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Logging,

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...t-basemap.html

"If you would like to log:

Use EvoScan v2.6 Full : http://www.limitless.co.nz/

Download, install

Once in EvoScan:

1. Select "OpenPort 2.0 (J2534/CAN/EvoX)" radio button
2. Select "CAN 2006+/EvoX" check box
3. Under the "Select ECU" Drop-down, select "mode23 USA RA EVOX"

Check off only these parameters to log:

Throttle Posn
2-Byte RPM
Load (Fuel)
TimingAdv
Knock Sum
PSIG
ActiveWGDC
ActiveWGDCC (Wastegate Duty Cycle correction)
Intake Air Temp
Manifold Air Temp
Coolant Temp

And if you have a wideband, connect it to your laptop and check off the wideband logging in EvoScan.

The best logs would be a full RPM sweep of 3rd and/or 4th gear on a level road. Log the car in Sport Mode so it won't shift on you."

Ok, So I have everything ready and drive the car and try to do a 2500 rpm to redline on 3rd gear or 4th gear. Probably easier to do in 3rd due to speed limit. lol. I'm getting ready to do this and wanted to make sure everything is in place. So if anyone can help, what will come after this? I get home and I want to check to see how everything went! What do I do?
Old Feb 9, 2012, 07:15 PM
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So many things going on. lol...

This project is on the move! ok, so I think i'm coming to a choice, either I go borla or Evo X turbo. lol.... I can get the turbo ($400)with all the hose i need and the stock DP for $80 or I can get the ETS DP for $300. Would it be better to get the ETS or should I just get the stock DP? I'm still searching for the exhaust manifold
Old Feb 9, 2012, 07:29 PM
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Get a 3" dp and hfc/tp. If you are going to do all the work of replacing the turbo, only makes sense to upgrade them as well, otherwise you will just do it later. Also look into something for the o2 housing, either a widemouth dp or a replacement o2 housing (like the meagan one).
Old Feb 9, 2012, 08:08 PM
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Thanks! I have someone who has all the parts and is parting out on everything on the Evo X, so I'm trying to get a deal on it. Even if I get a couple of parts at a time, it's fine with me. I think the turbo with all the connecters except for the feeder part for $400 is a great deal and probably another $80 to ship.
Old Feb 9, 2012, 09:59 PM
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I will be going to the body shop to work with them and see what are we looking at cost wise to do the bodykit install. Will update this portion tomorrow.

I'm looking at $1,600 for the complete wide body kit and I'm just waiting for the price of the wind splitter. Craig at Driven By Style has been extremely helpful. He gets tons of emails from me daily and is very quick on replying and getting information to me quickly. This is the email I got from him today when asking about installation and pricing.

"Yeah this is actually pretty simple. Everything is a bolt on except for the quarter panel overlays will need some amount of work when getting them ready for install. You can do them a few different ways.

1) go for the race look and have the rear panels installed with rivets and add a rubber gasket behind the panels so they dont rub the stock metal panels.
2) go for a permanent look and have the rear panels installed with panel bonding adhesive
3) go for a seamless oem look and install the rear panels with panel bonding adhesive and then mold the seams with fiberglass and body filler. (would require the rear quarterpanels to be painted on the car so to make sure everything looks right the entire a to c pillar would be sprayed and then there is a break line at the bottom by the side skirt.)

If you can afford it option 3 would be the way to go because you can have the shop cut out the rear sheet metal in the wheel wells and actually space your wheels out wide and not have clearance issues. The new quarter panel would actually be a functioning wide body if done this way.

The front bumper, rear bumper, side skirts, fenders, rear add ons are all bolt ons.

Every fiberglass part will need to be test fitted first then pulled back off to be prepped for paint. Every millimeter of surface needs to be sanded and any pin holes, gel coat chips, spider cracks etc would be spot filled with glazing body filler. Once all parts are sanded and body worked then they are primered with high build primer, block sanded a final time and then sealed and painted.

Price will vary from shop to shop as well as by area that you live in. I would check around a few shops and make sure you are comparing shops that do this kind of work not just collision repair. If you run into any tech questions or anything like that I am always available to assist just shoot me an email.

I should have the pricing on the splitter shortly just waiting for a call back.

Thanks
Craig-"
Old Feb 10, 2012, 02:41 PM
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Ok so I went to the shop and this is what they told me. That a job like this to be done professionally will be about $2500+ It will depend on how much prep work the body kit needs before it is installed. I'm thinking it will be like $3,500 as I want the whole car repainted with House of Kollor - Kandy Orange - UK08 Tangerine. Cost about $1200 for just all the paint stuff and that's why I think it will be like $3,500.

I am really getting excited about the project!
Old Feb 10, 2012, 05:47 PM
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let me know how it turns out because thats how much my shop is charging me the same price as well. I just didnt go through with the project yet kinda worried about it looking out of place. GOOD LUCK!
Old Feb 11, 2012, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by allennnz
let me know how it turns out because thats how much my shop is charging me the same price as well. I just didnt go through with the project yet kinda worried about it looking out of place. GOOD LUCK!
Honestly, I would be more concerned if the shop would charge me $800 for a job i'm asking for. Just make sure the shop is highly know for their job. Go even to a local auto paint store and ask them and places that sell performance part and body kits. They can all help point you in the right direction. The shop I'm going to is known all around town. When it's all said and done you are looking for a shop that going to do it right. If you learn a little about the process it helps you. For example, what does it take for the body shop to install and prep the body kit. The next thing is about painting it. Remember it's your car and your job to make sure the shop is going to do the job that you pay for so get informed and keep an eye on your project.


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