nmilsaps

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I'm aware of the typical way. And have always done it that way.

The instructed way, per their website, to set up an amplified bazooka tube with a FAST connection (a quick connector for the tube by the manufacturer) is to splice it directly into the radio. 6 wires - speaker wires (L,R,+,-), power, switched power.

I know the speaker wire colors from your walkthrough.

I'll see if I can find that pdf of our car to see if that shows anything about all the different wire colors back behind the radio.

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

On the same connector used to tap for the speakers, pin 21 should contain a Yellow wire, which will be your switched power source through the ign switch powered accy relay.

On the same connector at pin 30 there should be a Red (White Stripe) which will be your direct power routed through the ETACS.

Note: Mitsubishi has numbered the pins on this connector from 21-40, starting at the top left and reading like a book.
21-30
31-40

For orientation reference, the speaker wires should be located at pin 25, 27, 35, and 37

I'm very interested to know how this will perform running off of power from the radio unit. Did they also instruct you to route a power wire directly from the battery, or are these two your only power sources?

nmilsaps

iTrader: (2)

Cool. Thanks!
I found these, which may be helpful to anyone else.










WIRE COLOR CODE
B : BLACK LG : LIGHT GREEN G : GREEN
L : BLUE BR :BROWN O : ORANGE GR : GRAY R : RED
W : WHITE SB : SKY BLUE P : PINK Y : YELLOW
V : VIOLET P : PURPLE

nmilsaps

iTrader: (2)

With this connector, it shouldn't be necessary, is what I read on the Bazooka forums.
We'll see, I guess. I'll let you know how it sounds.

nmilsaps

iTrader: (2)

Hooked it up over the New Year break... 10" Amplified Bazooka Tube. Everything spliced directly to the wires behind the radio (speakers and power). Seems to work fine for what I wanted. There is enough punch and I can really feel the low bass now. But nothing major. It is mounted on the back of the rear seats in the trunk and is easily detachable and removed if needed. It doesn't shake the back seat or anything like that. The only thing is that I would have to disconnect the sub to before I lower my seat to access the trunk, which is no problem though. An 8" Bazooka tube would probably fix that.

All in all - for less than $200.

Thanks for your quick help!

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

Glad it all worked out for you. Add some pics if you get a chance, I"m sure there are others who may be interested in a more streamlined setup, such as this, as opposed to a standard install.

nmilsaps

iTrader: (2)

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

I would never guess that was a sub if I didn't know any better

alexisNYK1

would you know how to run the power cable through the firewall of a 2011 Lancer?

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

This method of routing can be used on ANY 2008 and newer Lancer, though the wiring may have changed slightly with the new audio systems introduced for the 2014 model year

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

This method of routing can be used on ANY 2008 and newer Lancer, though the wiring may have changed slightly with the new audio systems introduced for the 2014 model year

hondarider

Hey dude just wanted to thank you for this write up, it was super helpful to me. I was actually installing a ZX650.4 and 4 RS component speakers. Even so, your post saved a lot of time in disassembling the dash and so forth.

However I could not fit my 4AWG power cable through the fender grommet, so I ended up going through a grommet that was located to the top-right of my accelerator pedal (to the right of the heat shield in the engine bay). So if anyone else has that issue that's a good option too.

Since I was connecting up 4 speakers, I had to use a Scosche SLC-4 (using the line out selection). This converts the 8 audio wires from the stock deck into 4 RCA cables (one for each door) that can run back to your amp. I included an attachment which shows the correct wire color codes for a 2010 RA (and I assume 2008+) since it was a little tricky to find. I just followed the instructions for the SLC-4 and it worked perfect. Hopefully that will help somebody in the future.

The only thing I have found confusing is the fuse for the remote wire. I found the 30A fuse in the main fusebox that had a little musical note like this - ♫ corresponding on the cover (#31 on the diagram). However when I used that spot for the fuse tap, my amp would not shut off when I turned the car off. So I moved the fuse tap one spot up to #32, leaving #31 empty. Now the amp turns on and off perfectly, and I haven't noticed anything wrong with #31 being empty. I don't know why #31 didn't work, and I don't know what #32 is for because it was originally empty. It has a picture of a little engine with "EDC" on the fusebox cover, and it just says "Diesel" in the owner's manual. Do you know what that's about?