you have to go by feel. if the car starts moving, you're only holding it back and burning your clutch by staying on the clutch, so let go. it should be fairly quick that's why i call it a slip/dump. you start to slip it out, and when you feel it grab, you let it go.

 

So as soon as you start to feel it grab and you start inching foreword you just let it out smoothly but quickly or do you just lift your leg up as fast as possible with out dumping it?

 

just go out and try it, and you'll see what i'm talking about. you find the spot it engages BEFORE you start the launch process, and you hold it there. then when you are launching, you slip it out a little, and when you feel it grab, you let go.

 

Hey...how is the launching process different if im using a twin plate ralliart clutch?.....the first time i installed the clutch and launched like i used to with a stock clutch, i broke my transmission and transfer case.....now im trying to slip more, set my launch rpm to 5800 (btw i have a red installed, which is making launching more difficult compared to green or stick)

Any advice on how to launch perfectly?

Thanks

 

i just drop it like its hot and hope it doesn't break

 

at least 6k and pop it or get tuned and get launch control!

 

For launches I just immediately bring my clutch pedal to the engagement point, the tires chirp a little, and then I let go. I launch from 6k and the rpms drop to around 3.5k during the launch. Which on stock tune seems to be where the torque is at. It took me a while and a lot of smelly clutch launches to figure it out. Hopefully its not too abusive to my drivetrain.

Also its fairly easy to engage 2 step. Clutch all the way to the floor, 1st gear, full throttle. It should go right to the 2 step limit. I find if the car is rolling at all or if I let the clutch up even a little it goes past the 2 step limiter.

 

The main thing that breaks your driveline is sudden shock, so if you get wheel hop or just side step your clutch, be prepared for driveline repairs. The key is to figure out a way to preload your driveline before taking off. Some use hydraulic hand brakes/preload on the clutch, but I just slip until the car barely starts moving then dump it. Either way you put tension on your driveline before fully engaging. My way is slower and probably results in .2 or so loss in E.T., but I don't feel like putting a hydraulic hand brake in and I always seem to mess up hand brake launches anyway.

Not fullproof as you can still have failures, but it should reduce the risk.

For reference I am on a standard .63ar 35r and launch off a 2 step at 6500rpm.

 

im using the 2 step launch control works very well

 

I guess (one of) the main objective is to not get wheel hop. Apparently thats what was killing the R35 transmissions. Super aggressive wheel hops from the early gen launch controls. Its like hammering on the gear teeth instead of applying constant force.

I used to try letting the clutch out slower like you do initially, but then the 2 step disengages and the revs sky rocket, burning up my clutch. Though its probably cause you're running a gt35r and I'm running stock. What do you mean by hydraulic hand brake btw? Technically evos do have a hydraulically operated hand brake (unlike STi's and basically any other car I've seen personally).

 

Well I let the clutch out enough at 6500rpm to get the car rolling, then pretty much dump it. The revs don't have a chance to skyrocket because my boost doesn't build that fast. On a stock turbo that could be another story.

As far as evos having hydraulic hand brakes stock, I just looked at my manual and it's in fact a cable not hydraulic. What I meant though is a special handbrake installed with more clamping force to hold the car in place while you build boost off your clutch. Maybe a bit more harsh on the clutch but easier on the driveline.

 

I did not know this, good to know

 

I did not know about this before today; ran out and tried it and DAMN!! just damn!!