How to run mid-low 11's....
Jun 6, 2009, 12:15 PM
#31
They swapped parts for random brands and mix matched parts. I had taken some off some of the parts off before I traded it in. When the first buyer bought it he called me for advice after installing a few things. Car went 12.60-12.40. He never listened and sold it. Chris then bought it and had to buy parts too because the guy removed his. He also put some random parts in and the car went a best of 12's. I told him once what to do and he didnt listen. 12's continued. He called again and said I am redy to listen
We went to awdmotorsports together, installed parts, and instant 11's. A big factor was the tune. I used dynoflash with great results back in the day on the blue car, I also had great results with Scott at TTP with the white RS, and he is using DIIRK with great results. I am now in my opinion using the best tuner in the country for stand alone- Crispeed The parts combination is critical but obviously so is the tune.
We went to awdmotorsports together, installed parts, and instant 11's. A big factor was the tune. I used dynoflash with great results back in the day on the blue car, I also had great results with Scott at TTP with the white RS, and he is using DIIRK with great results. I am now in my opinion using the best tuner in the country for stand alone- Crispeed The parts combination is critical but obviously so is the tune.
Last edited by Most-Wanted; Jun 6, 2009 at 03:06 PM.
Jun 6, 2009, 02:28 PM
#32
is the art to no drivetrain breakages just getting the "bite" then lift that pedal as fast as your leg allows without side stepping?
do you actually have car movement before the fast clutch release?
do you actually have car movement before the fast clutch release?
Jun 6, 2009, 02:52 PM
#33
The idea for me is to avoid dry hops. Slicks are best for that reason. But on a street tire I have found if you leave with excessive rpms you dont seem to encounter dry hops. If anything you just get tire spin. But yes, I already have movement on the car before complete release of the clutch. It is also very important to load the trans/tc with pressure. So basically you want to start releasing the clutch until you feel the car trying to inch forward. Once you reach that point hold it there. Then full accelerator pedal to obtain the two step and then quick slip when your ready to leave. It definitely takes a bit of practice getting everything coordinated. But as I said, I havent broken anything yet and I am launching at 7k plus now. So in short, yes-You never ever want to just dump the clutch or side step. 9 out of 10 you'll either break something or just bog anyways with side stepping. The key is to keep the rpms up around 6500 or above. Thats also where the highest hp numbers are. Its always a good idea to review dyno charts to help with shift points. My optimum shift points may not be yours....
Jun 6, 2009, 03:17 PM
#34
^altho sounds like a receipe for wheel spin? if so you have to get grip another way i.e don't change that launch method but lower tyre pressures / warm tires before the run ?
Jun 6, 2009, 03:56 PM
#35
100% correct and a given. Tire pressure need to be lowered and tires need to be warm. I always run through the water pit and heat the tires up even on street tires. It also cleans the debris off them. People think driving around the water pit and not heating street tires is best, but what they dont realize is when you drive around you are picking up all kinds of dirt, debris, etc. Tire pressure absolutely need to be reduced down to around 20 psi. Again this is just what seems to work best for me.
Last edited by Most-Wanted; Jun 6, 2009 at 03:58 PM.
Jun 6, 2009, 04:50 PM
#37
Lots of info to keep straight as the car has changed so much over the year. But yes, the car ran consistent 11.0's on C16 before any significant mods. I was trying to stay away from documenting the RS because of the extensive mods the car has seen over time and not to make it a look at me thread. I really just wanted to show how easy these cars can run 11.50's with minumum mods and a good tune. Whether it be on meth, race gas, or E85. No doubt 10's are realistic as a few of us have shown. But I think the majority of evo owners are looking to spend as little as possible, do little to no weight reduction, and are trying for 11's. Thats why I was referencing the blue IX I used to own. I have no problems discussing my RS in detail if people want to go there. I have made a ton of mistakes, learned alot, failed alot, broke records, lost records, hurt peoples feelings, wanted to sell it, wanted to burn it, etc to get the car where it is now. The car is almost done again for its next round and I am thinking the car will stay in that configuration for quite a while. I just want to enjoy the set up for now. Anyways, I would just like to help others avoid such a roller coaster ride.
Jun 7, 2009, 05:43 AM
#38
slight off topic Q. are your usdm evo's 2 step clutch actuated or wheel speed?
our jdm's here in the uk are speed actuated.
and 2 step isn't "launch control" that can build full boost is it?
i.e my 2 step only builds 8-10psi! correct?
our jdm's here in the uk are speed actuated.
and 2 step isn't "launch control" that can build full boost is it?
i.e my 2 step only builds 8-10psi! correct?
Jun 7, 2009, 11:59 AM
#39
I would think both because the two step doesnt get triggered when shifting while the car is rolling. I know there is a button that needs to be depressed by the pedal. But I am thinking there is something else in the ecu that restricts it from being activated while shifting. Not 100% on this. But in short, I do know the clutch pedal activates it. I definitely build boost on the two step.
Jun 9, 2009, 07:58 PM
#40
Ok a few q's for the pro,
How are you doing your burnout if your 2 step is set @ 6500? do you let it overshoot to 8k and then dump the clutch to get the tires to spin? I've done my fair share of FWD 3rd gear burnouts, but I'm a bit weary of being that abusive.
Did you retune the map where your car runs on the 2step to produce more heat/boost? retard timing and run rich? Do you have any suggestions as to how much timing advance you would suggest @ 6500+
Did you find that by the time you had the clutch all the way out you essentially had to depress it again to shift into 2nd? In both of my successful launches I found that I held a pretty steady RPM until I was fully engaged.
Thanks!
How are you doing your burnout if your 2 step is set @ 6500? do you let it overshoot to 8k and then dump the clutch to get the tires to spin? I've done my fair share of FWD 3rd gear burnouts, but I'm a bit weary of being that abusive.
Did you retune the map where your car runs on the 2step to produce more heat/boost? retard timing and run rich? Do you have any suggestions as to how much timing advance you would suggest @ 6500+
Did you find that by the time you had the clutch all the way out you essentially had to depress it again to shift into 2nd? In both of my successful launches I found that I held a pretty steady RPM until I was fully engaged.
Thanks!
Jun 9, 2009, 08:04 PM
#41
My timing is set to 4 advance from 120 load to 160 load and from 5k to 6500. Hope this helps!
Also I usually just bounce of the 2 step until it starts to build boost and then pop the clutch until the wheels start to spin. The first one usually is the easiest but after I do a few passes and the tires are nice and sticky it's a bit harder.
Also I usually just bounce of the 2 step until it starts to build boost and then pop the clutch until the wheels start to spin. The first one usually is the easiest but after I do a few passes and the tires are nice and sticky it's a bit harder.
Jun 9, 2009, 08:47 PM
#42
Ok a few q's for the pro,
How are you doing your burnout if your 2 step is set @ 6500? do you let it overshoot to 8k and then dump the clutch to get the tires to spin? I've done my fair share of FWD 3rd gear burnouts, but I'm a bit weary of being that abusive.
Did you retune the map where your car runs on the 2step to produce more heat/boost? retard timing and run rich? Do you have any suggestions as to how much timing advance you would suggest @ 6500+
Did you find that by the time you had the clutch all the way out you essentially had to depress it again to shift into 2nd? In both of my successful launches I found that I held a pretty steady RPM until I was fully engaged.
Thanks!
How are you doing your burnout if your 2 step is set @ 6500? do you let it overshoot to 8k and then dump the clutch to get the tires to spin? I've done my fair share of FWD 3rd gear burnouts, but I'm a bit weary of being that abusive.
Did you retune the map where your car runs on the 2step to produce more heat/boost? retard timing and run rich? Do you have any suggestions as to how much timing advance you would suggest @ 6500+
Did you find that by the time you had the clutch all the way out you essentially had to depress it again to shift into 2nd? In both of my successful launches I found that I held a pretty steady RPM until I was fully engaged.
Thanks!
I dont use the two step at all for the burnout because it seems to load the car up with fuel. Again I'm not a tuner, just a driver. As for the 1-2 shift. Yes it comes in a blink and feels like I dont even get the clutch out before going right back in. I actually need to get in there a little faster from watching my vids. But damn it comes fast And my two step is set at 7 or 7200 right now?? If there is sufficient water you dont need to rev it to 8k to get em going. This is where a pit crew comes in handy
Jun 10, 2009, 02:27 PM
#44
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The most helpful information I have read regarding launching technique, thanks.
I will heed your advice and report back when I go to the track.
I have not yet launched the car, so I hope that practicing your technique will teach me good track habits.
I will heed your advice and report back when I go to the track.
I have not yet launched the car, so I hope that practicing your technique will teach me good track habits.