How to run mid-low 11's....
Sep 9, 2009, 08:27 PM
#185
My 10.21@133 lift to shift. RED record 9.50@145 lift to shift. 9.0@157 lift to shift and play shifting at 7500. Not worth trashing a TC, trans, or motor by missing. If I was in someone else's car and there was a full budget and no worries. Well, then I would NLTS. My trans and TC just lasted well over a year of abuse and not one failure. It went to Shep just for a check up...
Sep 9, 2009, 08:32 PM
#186
So you are claiming that NLTS shifting is WORSE on the drivetrain? Have proof? (not calling you out, just would like to know for certain as well) I experience a much less abrupt change in power transfer thru the drivetrain. The clutch bears the brunt of the power transfer as it slips into re-engagement IMO.
Also, I'm referring to Tephra's NLTS system, no the Old School method of partially lifting the gas and mashing it down again.
Also, I'm referring to Tephra's NLTS system, no the Old School method of partially lifting the gas and mashing it down again.
Last edited by Jack_of_Trades; Sep 9, 2009 at 08:35 PM.
Sep 15, 2009, 05:23 PM
#192
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No...OT but I am an Evo 2.
The driving techniques are the same though. Everyone of these that I have been browsing refer to the 1-2shift as crucial to good times.
The lights at the track have not been up for months but on 20psi I should be able to run 12s when I ran 13.5s on 12psi.
The car is night and day different at this boost level.
WADAD
The driving techniques are the same though. Everyone of these that I have been browsing refer to the 1-2shift as crucial to good times.
The lights at the track have not been up for months but on 20psi I should be able to run 12s when I ran 13.5s on 12psi.
The car is night and day different at this boost level.
WADAD
Sep 16, 2009, 05:14 AM
#194
Tephra's NLTS mod keeps the engine from revving any higher when you press the clutch pedal in, so there is no worry of having lockout when going into the next gear and free revving your engine off of the rev limiter (which people generally set higher than their desired shift point). The NLTS mod starts letting the RPM drop a desired amount (default is 800 rpm) once its activated. So if you shifted at 7400 rpm, once the clutch is depressed, the RPM will start to naturally fall to 6600 rpm and stay there until you shift. When I NLTS, I shift fast enough that the RPM generally doesn't fall more than 200 rpm so I never actually hit that. The advantage is more about the engine NOT revving higher, compared to the Old School method. It took me a few days to train myself to NOT let off the gas pedal but once I learned, I never want to go back lol.
Sep 19, 2009, 08:02 AM
#195
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so i went to the track last night and first pass spun first and into second for a 12.9 with a 2.2 60 
so lowered tire pressure to 30 psi and did a spin through water ran a 12.8 but got some bad wheel hop on the launch and had to back out quite a bit. sooooo my question is what do you do to stop wheel hop i have bc br coilovers and 255 azenis. i know to soften up the rear for weight transfer and i did but my third pass i cut a 1.8 60 ft and still wheel hopped pretty bad and blew the licp rite after 1/8th mile and still ran a 12.8.
thanks josh
so lowered tire pressure to 30 psi and did a spin through water ran a 12.8 but got some bad wheel hop on the launch and had to back out quite a bit. sooooo my question is what do you do to stop wheel hop i have bc br coilovers and 255 azenis. i know to soften up the rear for weight transfer and i did but my third pass i cut a 1.8 60 ft and still wheel hopped pretty bad and blew the licp rite after 1/8th mile and still ran a 12.8. thanks josh
