You have on that track. But as the norm goes - others have not. There are more people running 11.9xx @ 115-116.

That timing seems off at the track.

My example (same -- stock engine, cams, head, turbo, splashed with 100oct)
https://www.evolutionm.net/registry/...me.php?tid=230

You are .2 quicker at the 8th and carrying that over to the 4th. And I had more 8th mph.

 

I assure you there is nothing wrong with the timing equipment. In the past(3 years ago when those times were done) not only was it an NHRA track it was also one of the slowest tracks in the country. The track is all new now, but those times were back in the day.

Here are newer times still on the old track but 2 years later. This was done in January of 2008. This was my RS when I first bought it and I ran it as is. I was having lock out issues on the act, transfer case was whining, and the clutch was also slipping This too was a full weight car and run as is. Stock tires and everything. Just bolt ons and cams(GSCS1).

60' 1.657
330' 4.839
1/8 7.488
mph 90.78
1000 9.735
1/4 11.629
mph 119.33


60' 1.644
330' 4.803
1/8 7.465
mph 90.78
1000 9.756
1/4 11.669
mph 118.09

All I can say is its in the shifts and launch. I just helped Casper out at the track. sk him how much his times improved with me giving him on site help I gave him some small clutch tips and his first pass was a low 1.6 60' and his best ever pass.

ctevo-The trick is to leave the car loaded. Meaning you put the car on the two step but leave the clutch partially engaged. You want to feel the car trying to edge forward. Most people are leaving the clutch all the way in. When they release it it travels and you get a rapid engagement which normally gives you tire spin. By holding it at the edge ou are already loaded per say. Think of it like a gun. If you had to pull your fingers from a grasp and reach for the trigger then pull there would be a delay and inaccuracy. If you rest your finger on the trigger the reaction is much smoother and accurate. Not quite sure how to make sense of it. But I do know Casper made leaps and bounds when I told him this Hope it helps.

 

Back in my stock turbo/stock cams days I was running 11.6's @ a low 117mph trap. It's definitely possible with driving. mph shows the power of the car, ET is the reflection of how well that power is used during the run IE: good launching and most importantly a very quick 2nd gear shift.

 

Yup, very possible. Thanks for the input Ryu. I've been trying to help others find a quick and cheap guide to better times.

Here is from another night. I read my old posts and it makes me laugh


70°F
Clear

Feels Like: 70°F
Humidity: 69%
Wind: ESE at 6 mph


60' 1.627
330 4.795
1/8 7.480
mph 90.60
1000 9.774
1/4 11.72
mph 115.59

60' 1.648
330 4.805
1/8 7.474
mph 91.37
1000 9.761
1/4 11.708
mph 115.87

60' 1.660
330 4.817
1/8 7.500
mph 90.27
1000 9.799
1/4 11.751
mph 115.11

60' 1.650
330 4.801
1/8 7.475
mph 90.81
1000 9.764
1/4 11.712
mph 115.51

60' 1.654
330 4.815
1/8 7.483
mph 91.42
1000 9.768
1/4 11.714
mph 115.72

After the 60's started slipping I decied to shift lanes and do a burn out to heat the tires up. Tire pressure was down to 13psi and I was still losing traction. The burn out definitely helped, but I hate doing them in the evo. The car is in need of a better tire set up and will creep into the 11.5's.

60' 1.610
330 4.765
1/8 7.418
mph 90.58
1000 9.703
1/4 11.637
mph 114.28

 

Np. What people don't realize is even with a good 60ft there's still atleast 3 tenths at stake with shifting into 2nd gear quickly.

 

Do you still feel the same way about the burnout these days?

So to recap your suggestions:

• Lower tire pressure for better contact area and bite (set to around 20psi-ish for most)
• Set your 2-step rev limit to at LEAST 6400 RPM, rev-limit to 8400 RPM
• Pre-load clutch just before engagement at the tree, then engage 2-Step rev limiter for at least 1-2 sec's (not too long) to build boost
• Slip the clutch to keep RPM's from dropping below your rev limit set point
• Nail the 1-2 shift like its your JOB!

Did I miss anything?lol

 

You almost got it. One mistake and I think you just mis wrote. The two step should be 6400 and the rev limit I recommend for around 8400. One thing to mention is the two step. You need to be one the two step for a few seconds. This allows you to build boost. You cant just activate the two step and go. But you dont want to be on it too long either. The 1-2 is soooo important. If done right its like you were never in first it goes so fast. Before the clutch comes all the way out its going back in for the 1-2 shift. It comes in a blink. When I am at the waterbox I actually start thinking about the 1-2 shift. In the lanes prior to the waterbox I actually go through the motion of the 1-2 shift. Sounds gay, but it seems to work for me. But yes, you got the highlights right


[*]Nail the 1-2 shift like its your JOB!

This is major and couldnt've been worded any better. As soon as I make the shift I know already if it was a good run or not. Its 90% of the run.

 

Edited previous post Thanks

 

Most wanted, when your loading the car are you using the Ebrake or the normal brakes to keep it from edging forward while the clutch is slightly engaged? I assume your then dropping the brake and slowly letting the clutch out from that point rather then side stepping it as well?

 

Not using a parking brake or brakes but you can. I dont because it just gives you one more thing to worry about. I am just using the weight of the vehicle. I start to engage and when the car starts to want to move I pause there and go in slightly. This keeps the car on the verge of movement. Bigger hp cars will need staging brakes, ut not stock turbo power levels...

 

I never tested this but when the 2 step is engaged with the rpms at the set limit when does it turn off to let the engine hit full rpms? Is it based on wheel speed sensors telling the ECU the car is moving? I guess what Im getting at is once engauged like most wanted is saying then you can release the clutch slowly till you feel the clutch gripping without the 2 step disengauging right?

 

Yeah I believe its off the speed sensor. An easy test would be to park on a hill facing downward, put your foot on the brake, activate the 2-step, release the brake and let the car start to roll and see when the 2-step disengages. It'd be safest to lower your 2-step and rev limit to 3000 and 4000 RPM respectively just for testing.

 

Thank you most wanted for all the info you give the community. Can't wait to see your car back out

 

i only build about 7psi on the 2 step

 

I'm not sure about the speed sensor affecting it. If I recall correctly it operates off the switch on the clutch pedal. If it didnt then you could catch the two step without the clutch and it doesnt do that. The clutch has to go in to catch the two step...

drizzydrake-Thanks. It will be very soon.