SLIPSTREAMS the only rota's that work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/16-RO...Q5fAccessories
OR
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-ROT...Q5fAccessories
WOULD BE NICE

 

I'm sure other models may work with less wheel spacing such as the Subzero and Grid. I'd stick with a lighter model. Slipstream is the lightest but only by a pound.

16x7 Rota Slipstreams = 13.5lb
16x7 Rota R-spec = 14.5
16x7 Rota Subzero = 14.5
16x7 Rota Grid = 15 lbs
16x7 Rota Circuit 8 = 15.5
16x7 Rota GT3's = 17 lbs
16x7 Rota MSR = 17.2

Unfortunately I don't have the resources to try other wheels that may or may not work like the RPF1.

 

that boost is a +45 wheel which would help w/ clearance issues im sure

 

Looks to be 15.5 lbs.

http://www.racinglab.com/rota-boost-0001.html

And yeah, having a +45 with a 20mm spacer would be exactly the same as factory on the outer edge.
http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp

The question is will the spokes clear the calipers?

 

I WOULD only assume w/ the 20mm spacer +40 would be better then now understanding the placement
..

17431 26x 9.50-16 hoosier QTP anyone run those?

 

I have that QTP tire but have yet to run them. Many have claimed 1.4 60 foots.

 

9.5 wide tire what rims your using for this? the 16x7?

 

Yep.
These are what I bought and the best price I found-
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOO-17431

 

Picture showing where the lighter FD wheels hit with 20mm spacers:

 

Just installed the new longer ARP studs in the rear. What a BIOTCH! Had to remove the entire hub bearing assembly along with the rotor and caliper and use a press to get them out/in. Wasn't sure if the hub bearing was going to come out or not.

Did a total redneck move and used my cheap homemade slide hammer that I normally use for my tcase shaft removal and screwed it into the threaded holes in the the rotor which was held on by the wheel nuts.

 

Did you do this in the rear just so the wheels would be even with the front? I understand the rear is not required. i am doing the same today but only doing fronts. I dont want to have spacers in the rear if not necessary.

 

The FD wheels will stick in 12mm and come REALLY close to the rear control arm. You don't need any spacers as long as you don't use crimp on weights. I wanted to use the ARP studs for extra strength with the spacers but stock studs are fine with the FD wheels alone.

 

i put the studs in the front and rear just because i wanted the car to look even while the stock rims are on it.

 

Also by having the long 3" studs it makes it much easier to install/remove the spacers and you can check your lug nut torque without having to take off a wheel with the bolt on spacers.

Keep in mind the FD wheels will stick out 8-10mm in the front with spacers and stick in 12mm in the back without spacers so it looks kind of odd. Not a big deal when you're racing though, just personal preference.

 

Good point, I just wanted to keep weight down especially the unsprung. Still wanna show the car so maybe I'll keep some spacers on hand for the rear