you wouldnt want 12.0-12.2 afrs through your powerband on pump gas you need racegas for that you could seriously damage your engine i tried it in my car and even by taking out a lot of timing it didnt make more horsepower as klause says funny my car likes more timing advance and more fuel i was very precise when doing this tests of course using DLL on the same day same hour same everything
this is just my opinion but be carefull with those afrs you seek

 

12.0-12.2 in 3rd gear sound like a good target for AFR's to be solid in 4th.

You DO drive in 4th don't you?

 

Yeah, that peak torque is a little late. You should be able to hit 23 psi at around 3400 on level ground. It should honestly get there slightly earlier on a uphill grade given the increased engine load.

Dudical, you can help your spool out in several ways. On a IX, the VVT map is the most effective way. You can also play with timing advance and fuel mix. The type of boost control you chose can also help.

I hit 24 psi at about 3300 (4th) in my car using the stock BCS and modified pill. I run 30s in my VVT map during spool up with a ~12.8 AFR and timing advance in the low teens. I hope that helps.

 

let's not forget what happens when you lean the AFR into the 12's and reduce the timing significantly to be able to run high boost in hot weather. It might be wise to get an EGT gauge to see where you are.

 

Think about what your saying "my car likes more timing and more fuel". Tuning it for optimal timing and about 0.8 O2 is very difficult, and with changing conditions is an ongoing process. By adding the fuel for the amount of time your just weakening the combustion (kinda like lifting the throttle or dropping the boost - same damn thing).

It is very possible to get the same whp without detonation even more simply by trimming the fuel and timing to reasonable amounts, and guess, what your wide band will read more accurately. The problem is it's much more difficult to do which is probably why most revert back to overfueling and then advancing the timing.

 

Please explain why I would hurt my motor on a 12.0 afr on pump gas?

Plus they way you did it of course it wasnt going to respond well. You took a map that had a lot of fuel and timing and then tried to lean it out with the same amount of timing, then had to take timing away....All you did was cause yourself grief because you were trying to change 2 things at once to make work together.

If you would have started off by getting your afr at 12.0 and then building a timing map around that by adding and not backwards tuning like it seems you did from your explanation you might have found you would have had better luck.

btw what is your timing #'s at redline, just curious to see how much more timing you run dumping a lot of fuel to do it....

 

i didnt take timing away, i have been adding it to atleast get the car to knock? and since when is 23 psi "high boost"

 

EGT is worthless when you have the knocksums count at your disposal real-time.

knocksums>EGT

EGT is a result of knocksums and retarded timing.

EGT was used in the past where knocksums count was not able to be read.

When EGT would climb, the assumption was made that knock was retarding timing and hence raising EGT as the fuel was still burning as the exhaust valve would open.

 

I'm fully aware of what EGT's are and what they are caused by, I'm merely suggesting that it wouldn't be a bad idea to know where you are.

You can pull out 15* of timing to run 30psi on pump gas and run 12.5 AFR and not knock but is that safe? and furthermore are you making any power like that? I doubt it.

 

EGT's are irrelavent and of no importance to him.

There has been no indication that anyone in this thread is running 30psi at ignition timing after TDC and at 12.5afr. I am not sure what your point is or if you even have one.

I am happy to hear input from certain non-vendor members that are sharing some sound advice. There are some "average" members in this thread that through their posts, have demonstrated that they know what they are doing. Bravo.

Keep up the helpful info.

 

my point is that while knock is typically the best indicator of the health of the engine, it is not the be all end all and in some situations EGT's are a useful reference point to make certain you aren't burning up the engine.

also, you can lean an engine out far enough that it doesn't have enough fuel to make fire and it will not knock. My point is, the knock sensor isn't fool proof.

 

Remind me again why Mitsubishi engineers employed the use of a knock sensor and not an EGT sensor on the 4g63.

 

probably for the same reason they didn't come with WB02 sensors, it isn't necessary once the engine has been tuned correctly but once you start modifying the car, the more info you have the better off you are, especially if you're going to utilize an extreme tuning strategy.

I'm not saying everyone needs to go out and buy an EGT sensor at all, I'm simply saying that if you're going to tune your car to air/fuel ratios that are typically reserved for race gas, you need to be very careful and it wouldn't be a bad idea to arm yourself with all the tools you can to make sure you don't have a melt down. I think most of us can agree that his tuning strategy is a bit extreme for a boosted car in this summer heat. I'd hate for a newbie to stumble upon his post and melt a piston trying to reach 12.0 AFR on pump gas.

 

yeah cause 12.0 is sooooo dangerous when properly tuned

- speaking of false information?

 

this is hotter then the fire i was working on yesterday.