ECUFlash Tune Milage and Mods
its being measured with a different basis. I can log 17 on one piece of equipment and get 8 with another. I don't know what the particulars are but its just a matter of measurement basis.
Recent update. I went and picked up my car last night, drove 115 miles with a rebuilt transmission (6 speed for the time being) with only 15 miles on it and burned 4.41 gallons. This is 26.07mpg cruising at 75-80 on fairly flat ground.
I need to do this the next time i'm on the dyno. I'd rather map out the whole map from cruise to boost. My mileage is horrible (I average 19mpg). But, I think this is mainly because I tend to cruise at 90+ when I can so that puts my just shy of boost. When I'm stuck in traffic and have to cruise with the heard I usually get 21 - 22 mpg.
I need to do this the next time i'm on the dyno. I'd rather map out the whole map from cruise to boost. My mileage is horrible (I average 19mpg). But, I think this is mainly because I tend to cruise at 90+ when I can so that puts my just shy of boost. When I'm stuck in traffic and have to cruise with the heard I usually get 21 - 22 mpg.
.... you don't need to consider mpg at 90. :-) where the heck can you do that for long?
Has anyone tried running more spark advance in these cells as well? A Nissan SR20 runs around 44 degrees instead of the EVO's 38. For other Nissans I have gotten good mileage gains by adding more advance in about the same areas of the map. I run a vacume gauge and observe my manifold vacume under these condtions and I advance the timing until the vacume doesnt increase, then back off slightly.
Do you think the same would result for someone cruising at 65-75mph? I don't cruise at 75-80, unless I'm on a long drive. Do you still suggest changing the open loop columns at only 5 points or the whole thing to 45?
Then, when a stupid Donk come flyin past with his Crown Vic rollin on 24's doing 90mph, you just have to show him who's boss. Eh, nevermind, that's not worth the gas.
Has anyone really played with the lower regions, the idle areas? I have been playing with that mostly recently, and warmup AFR is in the mid/high 15's, and steadily drops and centers around 15.2. I don't know if I like the warmup a tad on the lean side, but my spark plus don't show any real signs of "oh damit I should change that". My fully warmed up idle seems to fluctuate between 14.7 and 15.2.
No sure about that but I was told by a very smart guy that has way more knowledge with tuning than me that it was perfectly fine to change the area around the 40-90 load in the 2K-4K range a little higher than 14.7 as long as you were not running a cat and the number seems to top out around 15.4 or so maybe a little higher under ideal conditions. Those lean burn high mpg cars get away with much leaner afr but they are designed to take advantage of it with special heads and compression ratios. Our cars were designed to make power and thus cannot run much higher than stoich without losing power and requiring more throttle negating the leaner numbers.
Yes you cant run AFR 15.4 with stock ecu and narrow band lambda in closed loop, you will always become 14.7!
Only possible tweak is to use Wideband lambda and use its analog output for o2 input in the stock ECU. Than trim that output so that stock ecu thinks it has reached 14.7 (voltage schould be around 0,56V) but the true AFR would be 15.4 at this moment. This is the way how to have another AFR than 14.7 at closed loop. Another way is use aftermarket standalone ECU like AEM EMS or Motec.
Yes you cant run AFR 15.4 with stock ecu and narrow band lambda in closed loop, you will always become 14.7!
Only possible tweak is to use Wideband lambda and use its analog output for o2 input in the stock ECU. Than trim that output so that stock ecu thinks it has reached 14.7 (voltage schould be around 0,56V) but the true AFR would be 15.4 at this moment. This is the way how to have another AFR than 14.7 at closed loop. Another way is use aftermarket standalone ECU like AEM EMS or Motec.
Only possible tweak is to use Wideband lambda and use its analog output for o2 input in the stock ECU. Than trim that output so that stock ecu thinks it has reached 14.7 (voltage schould be around 0,56V) but the true AFR would be 15.4 at this moment. This is the way how to have another AFR than 14.7 at closed loop. Another way is use aftermarket standalone ECU like AEM EMS or Motec.
go back to posts 13 and on
Last edited by nothere; Jan 5, 2008 at 11:03 AM.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=301396&page=2
post 25 thru 27 illustrate this and show a shot of the high and low tps tables
Problem of Narrow band lamda is that she will change output voltage strongly on EGT than on change from 17:1 to 15.5:1 AFR. So i will strongly not recommend to use narrow band for targeting any other value else lamba=1 (AFR 14.7:1) what is she designed for !
If anybody will do some stupid tuning using narrowband lamda, he will kill his engine very quick
Sorry, but you are wrong! Your narrow band lambda does not know anything about 15.5 AFR, she can only say the AFR is under 14.7, aprox at 14.7 or over 14.7
Problem of Narrow band lamda is that she will change output voltage strongly on EGT than on change from 17:1 to 15.5:1 AFR. So i will strongly not recommend to use narrow band for targeting any other value else lamba=1 (AFR 14.7:1) what is she designed for !
If anybody will do some stupid tuning using narrowband lamda, he will kill his engine very quick
Problem of Narrow band lamda is that she will change output voltage strongly on EGT than on change from 17:1 to 15.5:1 AFR. So i will strongly not recommend to use narrow band for targeting any other value else lamba=1 (AFR 14.7:1) what is she designed for !
If anybody will do some stupid tuning using narrowband lamda, he will kill his engine very quick
This coming from a guy who's country that only can one thing well ****!
Last edited by PlanoEvo; Jan 5, 2008 at 02:14 PM.






